Loud clunk when applying brakes.

[Wayne6197]

2000 Ranger 2wd Trailhead. When I apply brakes there was a loud clunk in the front brake area, mainly driver side. Changed out calipers, pads, rotors and the rubber part of the brake line. Clunk is still there. Any suggestions or thoughts? Brakes seem to work fine. Maybe shocks are loose? Idk. Tia.

 

[Jazzer]

You can bounce the front drivers side up and down to recreate suspension travel. That would tell you if it’s the shock/spring/steering the clunk is coming from.

You could also work the steering wheel left and right while stopped.

 

[Angry Possum]

I'm getting that front loud clunk too. I definitely gotta try bouncing it. Great info.

 

[sgtsandman]

If the brakes themselves are checking out ok and there is no movement when yanking on the top and sides of the tires, then it time to look at the suspension and their bushings.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Check your a arm bushings

 

[Angry Possum]

Check your a arm bushings

What is an (A) arm bushing?

 

[Jazzer]

From your wheel hub/ spindle inwards, the upper and lower ball joints connect to the upper and lower control arms, then to the frame.

There are two connection points (bolts) on each control arm linking them to the frame, with bushings the bolts go through. Make sure those bolts are all tight and the bushings aren’t worn or degraded.

The clunk could be coming from anywhere in these suspension parts.

Jack up the wheel and grab it at nine and three o’clock and push/ pull it in and out to check for anything loose or noisy. Do the same, grabbing the wheel at twelve and six o’clock.

If you don’t find any slop in the suspension with this method, there are more serious stress tests you can do, involving taking the tire off and using a big pry bar to check those connection points.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Are both of the bolts that hold your brake caliper to the knuckle tight?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

What is an (A) arm bushing?

From your wheel hub/ spindle inwards, the upper and lower ball joints connect to the upper and lower control arms, then to the frame.

There are two connection points (bolts) on each control arm linking them to the frame, with bushings the bolts go through. Make sure those bolts are all tight and the bushings aren’t worn or degraded.

The clunk could be coming from anywhere in these suspension parts.

Jack up the wheel and grab it at nine and three o’clock and push/ pull it in and out to check for anything loose or noisy. Do the same, grabbing the wheel at twelve and six o’clock.

If you don’t find any slop in the suspension with this method, there are more serious stress tests you can do, involving taking the tire off and using a big pry bar to check those connection points.

What he said

 

[pjtoledo]

What is an (A) arm bushing?

lower control arm on most vehicles sort of resembles an "A", eh?

not to be confused with an "a" which is the upper control arm.

now one would think that the upper arm would be "A" instead of the lower.
good question, my B.S. answer is that because the lower "A" arm is physically bigger it warrants the distinction of upper case (not position) and thus
the lower arm is left (and on the right too) to the less distinguished "a" designation.

More Information for SKP SK520239 (rockauto.com)

 

[Wayne6197]

2000 Ranger 2wd Trailhead. When I apply brakes there was a loud clunk in the front brake area, mainly driver side. Changed out calipers, pads, rotors and the rubber part of the brake line. Clunk is still there. Any suggestions or thoughts? Brakes seem to work fine. Maybe shocks are loose? Idk. Tia.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions, really cool. When I turned the steering wheel there was a good clicking noise to the left turn, right turn fine. Bounced the front end, nothing. Tie rods and ball joints replaced a few years ago, not loose and rubber looks good. Shocks are tight. Not sure if calipers are tight as I didn't check that. Everything I checked was with my hand, did not use a prybar or such. Next step is I will see if bolts are tight.

 

[Wayne6197]

You can bounce the front drivers side up and down to recreate suspension travel. That would tell you if it’s the shock/spring/steering the clunk is coming from.

You could also work the steering wheel left and right while stopped.

Thanks. Nothing when I bounced. It did click on left turns of steering wheel. Looked fine upon inspection.

From your wheel hub/ spindle inwards, the upper and lower ball joints connect to the upper and lower control arms, then to the frame.

There are two connection points (bolts) on each control arm linking them to the frame, with bushings the bolts go through. Make sure those bolts are all tight and the bushings aren’t worn or degraded.

The clunk could be coming from anywhere in these suspension parts.

Jack up the wheel and grab it at nine and three o’clock and push/ pull it in and out to check for anything loose or noisy. Do the same, grabbing the wheel at twelve and six o’clock.

If you don’t find any slop in the suspension with this method, there are more serious stress tests you can do, involving taking the tire off and using a big pry bar to check those connection points.

Thank you. Bushings look good. Next step is to check the bolts.

 

[dvdswan]

Clunks are from forces unloading from a set position.

Check body mounts. As mounts dry out over age they can slip/move and clunk.

Upper and lower a-arm bushings. same as above.

Driveline slip-yoke dry. This sound can resonate forward and sound like it's from the front.

Loose suspension bolts.

Broken engine/transmission mounts.

 

[Wayne6197]

Clunks are from forces unloading from a set position.

Check body mounts. As mounts dry out over age they can slip/move and clunk.

Upper and lower a-arm bushings. same as above.

Driveline slip-yoke dry. This sound can resonate forward and sound like it's from the front.

Loose suspension bolts.

Broken engine/transmission mounts.

Thanks for the reply. Slip yoke is good, dry. Changed u joints 2-3 yrs ago. Bushings look good but I honestly not sure how to check. Nothing moves when I yank on it . I'll jack it up and check for slop in the wheel. Again, thank you.

 

[Blmpkn]

Thanks for the reply. Slip yoke is good, dry. Changed u joints 2-3 yrs ago. Bushings look good but I honestly not sure how to check. Nothing moves when I yank on it . I'll jack it up and check for slop in the wheel. Again, thank you.

Slip yolks need lube though I thought..