List of carburetors that will work with duraspark?

[Trumoo]

Hey,
I've been lurking around looking for info on carbs that will work when I switch over to Duraspark. The tutorial says a motorcraft 2150. I see a ton of carburetors some off old mustang 2s and bronco 302s. Will I be ok as long as I get any non feedback 1.08 venturi carburetor with electric choke? Can I get one without electric choke and add it to it? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Trumoo!

Wow. 54 views not a single answer. Great forum.

 

[85ranger2.8]

I have these questions also. Additionally, all the reading I have seen steers to change to either the Motocraft 2150 or the Holley 7448 with 1.08 Venturi which most preferred the Holley. Well, I finally scraped enough cash together to buy a new Holley, only to find out from Holley and Summit Racing that the 7448 does not offer a 1.08 Venturi. The closest they have is a 1-3/16ths. Is the 1.08 only going to be found from old donor vehicles? What would be a best option? Thanks , any insight on this would be greatly appreciated

 

[85ranger2.8]

I forgot to mention that I am just completing the duraspark conversion and now I'm down to choosing the carb so I can get this going for my son

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

1-3/16=1.1875

Holley 350 is the most popular aftermarket 2bbl. They are a bit on the big side but work good.

Don't hold me to it but I think it is this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80350/overview/

Motorcraft 2150 is also popular from the OEM, popular on a bunch of 70's-early 80's Fords. I got one on a '78 302, wonder why they didn't have much for power...

I tried a Motorcraft 2100 with 1.21 venturies on my 2.8... it was so big it was almost like it had a vacuum leak. When you revved it, it almost wanted to run away. It would keep revving on its own... just too big. Kind of a letdown after I dremmeled out the carb spacer so the venturies could open.

If what you have works good you can make a metering block that goes where the mixture solenoid goes so you can manual adjust it. (only requires a thick piece of plastic and two screws)

 

[RonD]

Any non-feedback 2 barrel that fits your intake manifold.

Also look at/google: Duraspark HEI conversion

I like Ford trucks, but Duraspark and TFI were not "better ideas", Chevy hit the mark with the HEI module, reliable, cheap and very very easy to wire.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have burned through 3-4 parts store duraspark modules. Rockauto has Motorcraft for about the same price as a parts store module, dad had really good luck with them back in the day.

I just put my Motorcraft one in about 2 weeks ago, so far so good...

If it dies I am going MSD.

 

[Andy D]

I had Jeep 360 V8s with the 2150 carb, Pretty good carb for a 2 barrel. When looking at them, check for play in the throttle shaft. Reject any with play. About 15 yrs ago, I made a good 2150 out of 3 bad ones. and an Echlin kit from Napa. It took me several hrs over a few days to build a stock carb . I used a Chiltons manual for every jeep, Willys through Chrysler and the directions for several editions of 2150s in 3 languages in the Echlin 1 size fits all, rebuild kit. It was a great carb, it ran very lean and clean and passed MA roller emissions that were as bad as CA. It took me 6 tries to pass emissions.Final fix was a new EGR valve. I had all the vacuum powered widgets plumbed correctly, a working air pump plumbed to a direct fit cat. It passed smog averaging about 25% of max for HC CO and NOx In mellow driving, it got 15 mpg highway and maybe 12 around town. As good as this carb was, it can't hold a candle to a 1/2 decent EFI system.

Yah when I was on the IFSJA board, after mkt durasparks were considered iffy at best and the return process even worse.

 

[Will]

The carb choices all suck. If you buy a re-manufactured carb, it has been through 40 tanks of caustic solution and all of the magic drilled and bored passages are eaten out bigger than they should be. And, being that Rangers with carbs are all last-second attempts to pass emissions with carbs, they are very complicated objects and probably no Ranger that was ever produced with a carb will ever run correctly with a carb bought from Autozone or the equal.

You have two options. You buy a $500+ carb from a place that builds real replacements from old cores, and Jay Leno buys his carbs from them as well. Or you find an aftermarket carb of about the same size and power rating, and adapt it.

We are running a simple 34mm ICH Weber on our 3.3L '65 Mustang. Very tuneable carb, simple, simple, simple. The 200" motor from that era is only making about 85hp in modern terms, and that carb works really well for it. They are about $150. The old Mustang has razor-sharp throttle response and will peel out with an automatic trans, and runs 85mph no problem. That Weber would feed a 2.8. But you have to make an adapter--which is easy.

I know you think we suck because we are slow to answer your question, but the last carbureted Ranger was sold 31 years ago. And they were only made for 2 years. And they were bad and nobody could deal with them when they were new. They were a computer-controlled carb, but it sucked. You can't control magic with a computer. Magic has to work by itself. So Ford decided to use the computer on an injector instead of a carb (which works by magic) and everything got better.

 

[Will]

Oh, and as to Duraspark-throw it away. It has nothing to do with the carb. It's just an ignition system--separate from the 5hit fuel injection/cab Frankenstein thing. Keep the Duraspark distributor--that's good. But buy a $20 Orange DirectConnection, or whatever they call it now, ignition module. It can be hooked to anything. We have a distributor out of an 80's Fairmont in our '65 Mustang, running that orange Mopar box. It will run a push mower. It will work with points, too. Throw away the Ford box and use that Orange Mopar box. Lots of simple wiring diagrams for it on the web.