Lifting bed dump-truck style

[k3eaxk3eax]

I need to gain access to the tank preferably without lowering it from under the vehicle. Now I know that the bed can be removed or even slid back. However, I'd like to know if anyone has removed all but the rear bolts which are simply loosened (the rear bolts being those closest to the tail-gate) and then raised the bed dump-truck style. It seems that doing so would be an easier approach than removing completely or sliding back. By the way, there is YouTube video showing a Chevy S10's bed treated in this way.

Al

 

[r1hatman]

I was actually thinking about making my truck a dump bed!

 

['99 EB Explorer]

It was my experience that the hardest part about taking the box off is loosening the bolts. They're coated at the factory with thread-lock. So be prepared for a fight and a couple bent torx bits.

 

[k3eaxk3eax]

Thread -lock applied at factory -- now, I've not read that before. Many posting here do forewarn of the difficulty in removing the bolts though. What do you know that enables you to say this about thread -lock? Since most posted advice suggest the use of Pb Blaster, it might be more effective to use a product designed to "release" the thread-lock. I would really like to hear from you on this.

Al

 

[Sighman]

You will also have to deal with the gas filler tube........ I took mine off to flip my rear spring perches and it is a pain to get the bolts out. I actually had to cut the 2 near the rear window and replace the whole set of screw clips that go into the frame once I managed to get it off!

 

[nitrofan1]

Don't let the bed bolts scare you. T-55 torx, 10 inch extension, soak em in PB Blaster and have at it! I did mine in Sept. 2 of us got the new fuel pump on and working in about an hour and a half. The secret is take the tailgate off first, second unplug the tail light harness by the spare tire, take out the 3 screws holding the filler neck and tuck the filler neck down the hole. Have some sturdy saw horses. The hardest part is carrying the damn bed a few feet to sit on the saw horses. The pump install is maybe 3 minutes this way.

 

[Grey_04]

i had my bed off the ranger last fall and the bolts had the blue thread-lock on them . taped them with the impact and they came right out no problems. dodge used the same stuff on my dad's '07 ram. I'd say all the truck mfg are using similar products...

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Yeah...I wasn't saying that it's going to make your life miserable to no end....I just said it would be the hardest part of the job.

Keep in mind now that I did that in 2002 on my 1993 ranger and it was a pain in the hiney with just the torx bit and the breaker bar(no fluids of any kind were used)....but I got it done fairly easily all things considered.

All 3 of my filler neck bolts came out without a problem.

And as for moving the box, I did it with the help of my dad and it wasn't a problem at all. Just make sure you wear work gloves to pick it up....it's a bit sharp(well...on mine anyway). lol.

 

[k3eaxk3eax]

Thanks to all those who replied! But my original question regarding the possible "dump-truck" like upward pivoting of the bed remains. Those of you have removed the bed, is there any reason that you can see why this cannot be done.

Al

 

['99 EB Explorer]

Technically you should be able to do it....but it would make your life a whole lot easier to take it off completely.

Not only would you have more room to work, but you wouldn't have the worry of having the bed come crashing down on you at any given time.

Not to mention that there's really no telling just how high you'd be able to angle it until you try it out for yourself.

Hope this helps.

 

[ranger_mclaren]

It was my experience that the hardest part about taking the box off is loosening the bolts. They're coated at the factory with thread-lock. So be prepared for a fight and a couple bent torx bits.

Thread -lock applied at factory -- now, I've not read that before. Many posting here do forewarn of the difficulty in removing the bolts though. What do you know that enables you to say this about thread -lock? Since most posted advice suggest the use of Pb Blaster, it might be more effective to use a product designed to "release" the thread-lock. I would really like to hear from you on this.

Al

I said it once and and I'll say it again, for someone with little to no patients like myself. Been there done that a 4" angle grinder works just fine. Replace with brand new grad 8 bolts and you good to go. Oh and I honestly think it's easier to drop the tank. Just make sure you depressurize the fuel system first.

 

[adsm08]

All the body bolts get thread locker at the factory. Along with a lot of other bolts. It's blue.

The substance that is designed to "release" thread locker is called "heat". It is generally procured by burning things. Be careful using it near the tank.

 

[k3eaxk3eax]

We'll Jim there are other ways to produce heat. And to name one, there's electrical resistance ---you know, like the source of the heat that emanates from a heat-gun. So let me ask Jim, have you ever used a heat-gun on thread sealer?

Al

 

[adsm08]

Why do people keep calling me Jim? My name is Eric. I have also been known to answer to "Alfonzo", "Gomez", "Enrique", "Spaz", "Dork", "Tail", "Shmendrick (sp?)", "Youngster #1", "Youngster #2", "Youngster #3", and on occasion and from the right people "Rodeo Clown". I just want to elect Jim for president.


Anyway, no I have not used a heat gun on thread locker. It doesn't make enough heat. Butane or Acetylene are a little closer to the range you are looking for.

 

[exbass94]

If you try raising the bed dump-style, the bottom corners of the bed would probably scrape all the way up the back of the cab. You might have to trim the bed.