Lets talk tractors

[lil_Blue_Ford]

GM never made a true 1 wire alternator, those are aftermarket GM alternators with special regulators built in. What I did on my conversions was use a alternator for a 1979 monte carlo or anything GM in that era. GM was using their first internally regulated alternator at that time. You just have the large stud that goes to the battery, and a plug with two smaller wires. You can get the plug pigtail aftermarket or at the parts store.

On the plug the alternator is labelled 1 and 2. Terminal 2 just takes a very short wire and is jumped to the large output terminal that goes to the battery. The internal regulator uses this for voltage feedback/monitor

Terminal 1 is what brings the alternator online. This wire is run all the way back to the dash. Go to the store and get a small dash indicator light, one that has a plastic socket with two wires. Do not get one that is metal and grounded. Punch a hole in the dash and mount this light. One of the light wires will go to the wire to terminal 1 on the alternator. The other light wire will go to ignition on hot.

When you first turn the key but do not start the tractor, the new dash light will light up. When you start the tractor and the alternator starts producing power, the dash light will go out.

Just remember you do need to change the ignition coil. And of course use a 12v battery and put the negative on the frame of the tractor, not the positive. The alternator is setup for negative ground. The 6v starter works great on 12v. You can also change the headlights to 12v bulbs, or one of the tractors I converted the guy was cheap, so I re-wired the old 6v headlights in series so they would work on 12v.

That sounds like the information I was looking for. The previous owner did a half-arsed 12v conversion and when I got the tractor he told me that it never worked right and I should just take it back to 6v. I took one look at the hack wiring and figured the problem was probably in the wiring. I tore most of the wiring out and did it correctly. Dude was trying to use a massive ceramic resistor to knock the 12v to 6v, among other weird methods. The alternator and the lights are about all that I haven’t fixed so far. Was trying to just make do because I didn’t want to spend the time to fix all of it because I’m short on time right now, but this isn’t going to cut it anymore, I need the issues resolved and the tractor working correctly

 

[scotts90ranger]

That's part of what the IH M at my brothers needs, a 12V coil that just works as that's the biggest part aside from the alternator on a 12V conversion...

GM internally regulated alternators are stupid simple, we use or used to use a lot of the 7SI alternators at work that have a simple two pin plug with one wire jumped back to the charge post for a voltage sense for the regulator and one for ignition then of course hooking up the charge post... I'm sure if you look up GM single spool alternators (the type with one big pivot and a threaded hole for an adjuster) you can find something, conveniently with GM they didn't change much for a LONG time

 

[Bone_Ranger]

If you like the N Series a Ferguson TO series will do anything an N can, and quite a few internal parts interchange. Seems like they're slightly cheaper than an N Series on average, though prices are all over the place on these things.

One issue with the Ferguson vs the Ford is the Continental engine. The blocks are known to crack and parts for those aren't nearly as easy to come by as they are for the Flathead Ford engine. But like any other vehicle, keep an eye on the fluids and you shouldn't ever have a problem. The other issue is the Lucas electric system, which needs no further explanation....

 

[RobbieD]

The other issue is the Lucas electric system, which needs no further explanation....

We had a saying, back when I was in aftermarket 12 volt:

"Lucas, Prince of Darkness."

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

That sounds like the information I was looking for. The previous owner did a half-arsed 12v conversion and when I got the tractor he told me that it never worked right and I should just take it back to 6v. I took one look at the hack wiring and figured the problem was probably in the wiring. I tore most of the wiring out and did it correctly. Dude was trying to use a massive ceramic resistor to knock the 12v to 6v, among other weird methods. The alternator and the lights are about all that I haven’t fixed so far. Was trying to just make do because I didn’t want to spend the time to fix all of it because I’m short on time right now, but this isn’t going to cut it anymore, I need the issues resolved and the tractor working correctly

Resistor is common, a 12v coil just has one inside.

If you like the N Series a Ferguson TO series will do anything an N can, and quite a few internal parts interchange. Seems like they're slightly cheaper than an N Series on average, though prices are all over the place on these things.

One issue with the Ferguson vs the Ford is the Continental engine. The blocks are known to crack and parts for those aren't nearly as easy to come by as they are for the Flathead Ford engine. But like any other vehicle, keep an eye on the fluids and you shouldn't ever have a problem. The other issue is the Lucas electric system, which needs no further explanation....

It is unfortunate that for some reason Ford didn't use Delco electronics like every other ag company.

 

[franklin2]

Resistor is common, a 12v coil just has one inside.

Not all do. The ones that do are usually marked. The 12v ignition systems usually did use a resistor, either external or intermal, to regulate the current through the points and the coil.

When the points initially close, the coil is pretty much a dead short. The resistors used are usually around 1 ohm, which isn't much, but it knocks the current down during that inrush and helps the points last longer, and the coil to run a little cooler. When the points close the coil "fills up" and then when the points open, that is when the energy is released from the coil to the plugs via the dist cap.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not all do.

The ones you need for converting a tractor from 6v to 12v do.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… I don’t have the resistor anymore and just bought a 12v coil from Tractor Supply and slapped it on there when I fixed the ignition, battery and starter electrical…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ll have to get a pic. Looks like someone tried to half rig an external voltage regulator on it and I’m pretty sure none of it is right or works.

 

[franklin2]

Tie the large white wire and the smaller green wire going to terminal 2 together and run them to the battery +.(the tractor should be wired negative ground).

Take the yellow wire and tie it to a new wire that goes all the way to the dash to a light in a plastic socket. Tie this new wire from terminal 1 to one side of the light. Take the other side of the light and hook it to the ignition switch where it has power when the ignition is on.