Lets talk tractors

[ekrampitzjr]

Mahindra is Korean IIRC, Yanmar is Japanese and builds a lot of the smaller JD stuff.

Mahindra is Indian. Might be some plants in other countries making some of their stuff.

Wrote this before seeing PlumCrazy's response above.

A number of the grey-market Japanese tractors were made by Mitsubishi. Had one years ago and you couldn't kill it.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Engine is good, you would like it. 60hp is kind of a lie, it will paddle a 60hp tractor. Tons of torque, long stroke slow turning engine if you know what I am talking about. On paper it should be like a JD 3010, it will look a stock 4010 in the eye though. COM is a huge cheat code for a lot more torque on demand.

They are kind of a cold blooded indirect injected rather low compression diesel. They don't take a lot of ether well. Plug the block heater in and keep a good battery in it and if it is in good shape it will start.

Dad bought a second 800 at a farm sale a few years ago. It was like 50 degrees and had been raining off and on. They did the traditional start up before they sold it. It cranked for awhile and just as dramatically as it could popped, banged and farted when it started. Smoke came out from everywhere. The crowd visibly took a step back. It smoothed out and cleared up and ran smooth after its quick commotion. Normal operation, nothing to be scared of folks... it went super cheap thanks to its theatrics though. The exhaust manifold actually has a drain hole in it so it can blow smoke out the bottom at start up lol.

The COM is a concern. If it works great... if it doesn't you may have a hard time finding anybody that knows anything about it. We have done nothing but keep clean oil in our two. Grandpa bought his in the late 60's and dad snagged his first one in the early 80's.

The seat uses a torsional rubber spring, only one company makes them anymore and they are junk. Dad makes a bracket to put a coil spring under the seat. It is sad about the rubber springs, lots of older tractors use them. Dad is also partial to fitting a 70 series seat with arm rests.

I think they weigh about 6-7k dry. I see two sets of weights on this one which are typically 150lb each... add more if it has fluid. Your trailer should be ok... may need a better truck though.

I was more worried about the trailer then truck lol.

We'll see what happens. Im going tomorrow to look at that 9n.

The case...i dont know the more i think about it...the more im like i dont know.

As bad ass as it would be...i think it would also be a bit of a headache at the same time. (Mainly transport as id pry use it other places then just at home) If it had a gas engine and a clutch id pry be a bit more adventrous.

 

[RobbieD]

i dont know the more i think about it...the more im like i dont know.

I used to be exactly the same way, until I took a self-help course in procrastination.

Now I'm able to make firm committed decisions later.

I think . . .

 

[racsan]

The nice thing about a “N” is that they really sip the fuel, the bad thing about a 2 or 9 vs the 8 is that a 2N or 9N ‘s 3-point is only “draft control” where a 8N has position control as well as draft control. What this means is that with a 2 or 9 the 3-point is difficult to have a mid-range control over. Pretty much just up or down. The 8N with the selector lever under the seat in position control lets you have more control over the lift arms. Now you can swap a top plate & pump from a 8N over to a 2N/9N and gain the luxury of position control (I did it with dad’s ‘46 2N) Theres a casting rib near the ring gear you have to remove though. The 2N/9N has foot pegs , the 8N has running boards/step plates. and of course the 2N/9N is a 3-speed where a 8N is a 4-speed. Neither is live pto/hydro, meaning when you step on the clutch the pto & hydraulic pump stops. Maybe you know this, apologies if im rambling over something you’re aware of.
soil scoop? - awesome! think of it like a front loader, but on the back. Look up some youtube videos. Ive used mine to move dirt. if you can scoop it, you can move it. Has a trip lever to dump the load, can scoop forward or reverse. We had a old one growing up that wasn’t reversible, you could only scoop going forward. I restored dads 2N several years ago, it was bought new by my grandparents the year dad was born. for $900 in ‘46 if you wondered. Has the sherman overdrive, but with overdrive engaged it also doubles the pto speed.
Last picture was at a tractor show, Dad is driving, me & my daughter are on the back, and dad is holding Carson, her son, my grandson.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I was more worried about the trailer then truck lol.

We'll see what happens. Im going tomorrow to look at that 9n.

The case...i dont know the more i think about it...the more im like i dont know.

As bad ass as it would be...i think it would also be a bit of a headache at the same time. (Mainly transport as id pry use it other places then just at home) If it had a gas engine and a clutch id pry be a bit more adventrous.

If the engine is in good shape I wouldn't worry about it being a diesel. Trans... I get it.

They do scoot down the road fairly well.

 

[racsan]

I found a pretty decent NAA or jubilee for 1500 with a front end loader. Guy says it runs good and works well but it needs a head gasket.

The NAA's were OHV correct not flathead like the N's?

Yes, a NAA was right after the 8N and is a 134 cid ohv. Good motor. a jubilee is also a NAA but specifically a 1953.
added bonus- live hydraulic lift, pump doesnt run off pto & is running as long as engine is, heres more ford tractor information:

Tractor Identification and Model History - Ford Fordson Collectors Association

By: John Smith of Old Ford Tractors

fordtractorcollectors.com

 

[scotts90ranger]

Options add weight over the shipping weight too. Wide front axle, bolt on weights, liquid ballast in tires, oversize tires etc.

Many of the tractors there are listed dry and with ballast if I remember right, but yeah, agree... I think we took the 9000 through the weigh station and if I remember right like 11k... since it has duals in the rear, the 8600 we drug home a couple years before that was similar but it has big singles but I think they're ballasted... getting the 8600 going is on the short list since its clutch is likely less worn than the 9000 and hopefully the rear main isn't as leaky...

 

[Jim Oaks]

Back in my teen years my uncle bought an old Ferguson tractor that I used to brushhog fields, drag trees that he cut down, and we had a blade that I used a few times to grade a driveway. It was very reliable and the right size for what we needed to do.

My uncle down in Virginia had a few IH's and the one they used the most was an IH 444. Him and my cousin used to rebuild and paint old IH's and sell them at auction. At one point he had a building full of spare parts. I think my cousin still has the 444. I used to love that tractor.

Here's me on the Ferguson with my cousin on the fender:

 

[Lefty]

,

Yes, just like potato chips, not just one.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My TO-20 Ferguson. Seat is being rehabbed so it’s not on it in the pic

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Well like a creature of habit i bought that 9n.

Which, after checking serial numbers....is a 1945 2N.

Anyways...

It runs like a top, drives good, shifts good, hydros work good, pto engages good, 12v conversion, very good rear tires, filled. Even the brakes work...which is an oddity on a N lol.

Now the bad..

Biggest thing....it smokes. Kinda bad. Normally i woulda rejected it for this but A) I just drove 102.3 miles...a bit of a ways to go and come back empty and B) It runs so damn good. The smoke is whiteish but doesnt smell really like coolant, nor oil, or maybe my nose is shot. I pulled the dipstick and oil cap and didnt see coolant in the oil,

HOWEVER...

The radiator is full of a greyish sludge that looks like oil/coolant mix. The radiator also seems to pressurize fast and theres what looks kinda like slight blowby smoke that eeks out after you pull the cap. Everything ive read its either a 30 dollar headgasket, Or a (god knows how much) cracked block. So i took a gamble based on my gut feeling.

The front tires look to be original. The rest of the tractor (besides the seat and missing foot boards) seem unmolested. This coupled with my soft spot for N's lead me down that road.

The guy had a shop that rebuilt carbs/starters/generators/etc and he used it to test carbs on.

I paid 900 bucks. Probably to much...but..besides the smoke its a decent tractor.

Obviously i wont run it much (really not at all) untill i get the head gasket looked into.

I figure worst case i can sell it and make most my money back besides the 100 bucks in fuel my 460 drank going to get it.

Go ahead and chastise me

 

[racsan]

yeah brakes are usually not great due to the axle seals failing & getting oil in them, as seal “technology “ got better brakes worked better or at least longer. To change the points its easiest to remove the whole distributor & do it at a bench (or kitchen table) Really I don’t know how youd do it with it on the tractor. Late production 8N’s were a side distiburor & had a proofmeter on the lower dash, right side.

 

[franklin2]

They have this stuff to test for combustion gases in the coolant.

Amazon.com

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Or try the "glove test" as recommended by RonD.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

This is the way.

V-8 Conversion Kit - Awesome Henry