Kirbys 1991 Ranger Build Up and Solid Axle Swap

[bobbywalter]

Man. I am thinking full float 60 for this deal. Cost wise it's hard to beat.

 

[Kirby N.]

This truck is basically what I had dreamed up for my 86. Love the Cavalry Blue and the STX decals!

Question: I am currently in the process of mounting some fiberglass bedsides and I was curious what you used to secure the inner top lip of the fiberglass along the top of the bed. I was thinking of using the Autofab grommets, 1 every 8 inches or so.

Amazing build, I am subscribed or "watching" for sure!

Thank you. I used some rivets for mounting bodies from Summit racing. Pre painted black. I could get the part number for you. I used them about every 3". Could have been overkill.

Man. I am thinking full float 60 for this deal. Cost wise it's hard to beat.

Yeah, but they are big. They dont have tone rings so my rear anti lock brakes will work. And I dont know if full floats 60s can be 5 on 5.5. And I dont like the idea of using some goofy chevy brakes or something on it. I With the truss and the Chromo axle shafts this thing will be close to as strong as a full float 60.

I did consider buying a High Pinion dynatrac 60 that was for sale on craigslist, but I am glad I didn't.

 

[Kirby N.]

A couple pics of taking my kid snowboarding a couple weeks ago

 

[bobbywalter]

Yeah, but they are big. They dont have tone rings so my rear anti lock brakes will work. And I dont know if full floats 60s can be 5 on 5.5. And I dont like the idea of using some goofy chevy brakes or something on it. I With the truss and the Chromo axle shafts this thing will be close to as strong as a full float 60.

I did consider buying a High Pinion dynatrac 60 that was for sale on craigslist, but I am glad I didn't.

i suggested it because your already 5 on 5.5. a later E series has the tone ring. and disk brakes. you can turn down and redrill hub/rotor...

just depends on carrier scenario as to whether its prime.

though i would just run 8 lug anyway.


big? compared to a 7.5...sure....compared to the axle you have? not so sure. i have broken too many 9's and its always more money and i have to wait and order stuff.....

i am still tripping over e series axles. 9 inch axles with desirable characteristics are non existent.

so it is just from a cost and readily available parts perspective. the 9 inch is lighter.....much lighter. those benefits should not be discounted. very highvalue..


if you never have an issue with it....it will be a great investment.

but they are custom.



but i also run factory available gears. 100-150 bux and i am golden. there is a weight penalty...and a bit of clearance, but it is a smooth housing and dont snaggle too bad.

 

[bobbywalter]

keep making memories with the children.

 

[Kirby N.]

Jim put me on the front page and on the insta today. That was nice of him.

@bobbywalter- I am a little too late to change directions- but those pieces of information earlier might have changed my direction before I was committed to this 8.8 (you mentioned 9" a lot- I am building an 8.8). On my exploder I considered building a big bearing EB 9". I even bought one. I wanted to learn about 9" anyway. Then I compared 9" strength vs. 8.8" and decided it wasn't worth the effort. So I sold it.

The Moser axles I ordered had one minor mistake- the holes for the wheel lugs (press in) are the wrong size. Stock bronco/ f150/ exploder are .62 holes. I ordered .685 holes for some reason. I can find some lugs that will fit- they are from Moser (after looking at the part store extensively). However, I am considering sending the shafts back to be re drilled and tapped. The holes for the lugs are dangerously close to the outside edge of the flange, leaving very little material on the outside of the holes. If I have them drilled and tapped for 1/2"x20 threaded lugs, I will add almost 3/32" to the outside of the holes. That seems like a good trade off. I also hear the threaded lugs are stronger than the press fit. It will cost me some cash on shipping. The service isn't much, its the shipping that might hurt. I will call moser on monday and see what I come up with. I talked to local buddy who has a machine shop and he is not really interested in messing with chromo axles unfortunately.

 

[bobbywalter]

Jim put me on the front page and on the insta today. That was nice of him.

@bobbywalter- I am a little too late to change directions- but those pieces of information earlier might have changed my direction before I was committed to this 8.8 (you mentioned 9" a lot- I am building an 8.8). On my exploder I considered building a big bearing EB 9". I even bought one. I wanted to learn about 9" anyway. Then I compared 9" strength vs. 8.8" and decided it wasn't worth the effort. So I sold it.

The Moser axles I ordered had one minor mistake- the holes for the wheel lugs (press in) are the wrong size. Stock bronco/ f150/ exploder are .62 holes. I ordered .685 holes for some reason. I can find some lugs that will fit- they are from Moser (after looking at the part store extensively). However, I am considering sending the shafts back to be re drilled and tapped. The holes for the lugs are dangerously close to the outside edge of the flange, leaving very little material on the outside of the holes. If I have them drilled and tapped for 1/2"x20 threaded lugs, I will add almost 3/32" to the outside of the holes. That seems like a good trade off. I also hear the threaded lugs are stronger than the press fit. It will cost me some cash on shipping. The service isn't much, its the shipping that might hurt. I will call moser on monday and see what I come up with. I talked to local buddy who has a machine shop and he is not really interested in messing with chromo axles unfortunately.

it definitely deserves some time on the front.... it is an awesome rig.

yes....8.8 is the relevant...i have them all...and for some reason i was thinking you were doing a floater 9 to swap in as well..

and i realized this info is too late for you. but the discussion and relevance may help the next dude or dude-ette enjoying your build and they will have some options to think about.

 

[rngrracing96]

Thank you. I used some rivets for mounting bodies from Summit racing. Pre painted black. I could get the part number for you. I used them about every 3". Could have been overkill.

Yes please send the part number or post the link. Awesome pics with the kids! How is the fiberglass holding up in the snow and ice?

 

[Uncle Gump]

@Kirby N. Glad to see you made it to the front page here at TRS... Super nice truck and deserving of a feature article.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am working on an engine swap currently. Ranger is down.

 

[Uncle Gump]

What's going in it?

 

[Kirby N.]

I have a nos motorcraft rebuilt short block 4.0 that I am putting together with as much nos parts as possible. It is a 98 block with 98 pistons. I acquired it about 5 years ago and I have just been waiting for the right time. The current 4.0 has 313k on it, so it is time.

I also acquired a low mile 4 cylinder m5od behind a 2.4liter 1993 ranger in the junk yard and I am having the m5 rebuilt with all the hd parts, new soft parts and the gear set from the 2.4 liter transmission. This will equate to a lower first through third gear.

The main obstacle I am facing now is: I purchased some nos heads off of eBay that at 95tm (1995 4.0 versions). Unfortunately, though the heads are nos ford units, they are 93tm (1993 4.0 versions). With the 1998 pistons, I need 95-2000 heads to keep stock compression ratio. However, the exhaust chamber was changed in 98 to a smaller port that won’t be ideal with my 91 computer or manifolds. So I really need 95tm or 97tm heads. The aftermarket only supports 98tm heads. Ford doesn’t sell any parts anymore. So I went to the junk yard and found this 130k mile exploder with 95 tm heads.

I took these to my local machinist for rebuild using the valve parts out of the nos 93tm heads.

I hope to have close to a nos 4.0 in my ranger as possible with no oil leaks and 0 miles that will go another 313k miles.

 

[Kirby N.]

I have made some good progress. My stupid Jeep took a dump 2 weeks ago- so I got side tracked by that thing. Its pretty rough when 2 out of 3 of my vehicles are inoperable. The operable one was my kids bronco! I thought the jeep could wait until the ranger was done, but it started throwing a misfire code and tried to leave my wife stranded. Its one of those things too- once it is on the lift and I start pulling parts, I might as well do everything it needs. The jeep got a catalytic converter, a clutch, oil pan gasket, rear main, valve cover gasket, starter, crankshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, plugs. Rockauto also sent me the wrong clutch- different number than what I ordered- so that was a delay. I think it is going to run now and not leave my wife stranded- so back to the ranger, bonus- I think I got the oil leaks sorted on the jeep.

I have been waiting this whole time for the tranny to be done and for the heads. Finally, I got a call on the tranny- so I picked that up. Completely rebuilt with all new soft parts and the 2.4l gears. The rebuilder said both trannys were in exceptional shape when he pulled them apart. Not bad for a 313k mile 4.0 tranny. It was nice of them to paint over the grease that was left on there. Luckily I powerwashed it twice before taking it to them.

I also decided to swing by the machine shop and check on the heads while I was out. Turns out they have been done for a couple weeks and I had no idea. Thanks for the call....

They ended up not telling me what they decided was best either. But whatever, at least they are done. They put the new valves and springs out of the NOS 93TM heads into the 95 heads. The rebuilder said I need to buy a lottery ticket because the 95tm heads I brought him were not cracked. I told him the 95 variety aren't that prone to cracking.

They supposedly boiled them, but they didn't come back that clean.

maybe it is normal- but I was disappointed. The intake runners were full of carbon and oil. I spent a whole evening with a brush and some cleaner trying to get everything clean. I wish I would have done it before I took them to the place.

They also decked them .009. That should increase my compression a little bit. Also did a multi angle valve job- so that should increase performance. They had to do 12 new valve seals and 6 seats. I dont know why just 6 seats. The guy I picked them up from was about 97 years old and the tech didn't remember anything. I need to call and talk it over.

I started to install the heads on Monday- but then I realized I was missing 4 dowel pins on the new block. So I tried to get them out on the old. That worked not at all. I called ford and they had 4 in stock so I was able to pick them up yesterday.

Last night I got the new heads on and the lower intake. The valley needs SO much RTV to seal. I am hoping it does seal! probably 1/4" in the back. The gasket didn't have anything for the valleys.

Here is my lab. Its been fun to work with my dad on this. He is 72. I won't have his help long.

One last thing, my cousin who was an engineer for ford gave me a FSM. That thing is SO perfect for work like this. So detailed.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Your stuff is way fancier than what I've done in the past... I've rebuilt my turbo 2.3L twice in a driveway (2 different driveways...) and just inside the garage door...

The reason you got 6 valve seats is only the exhaust seats are prone to wear since they're the hot ones... the intake just wear out the valves over time usually...

 

[Kirby N.]

I have done plenty jobs under the shade tree. My dad was a mechanic in his 20s and ran a dyno. He has been wanting a good shop and a lift since then. I am way blessed now that he has gotten it. We bolt that house together over the last 2 years. We hired the big stuff but all the finishes we did. A bunch of electrical and most of the plumbing. So I get to use it and I am really thankful to do so.
Thanks for the info on the seats. Stoked to learn this stuff. The more I learn the less I know.