• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Keep this beater truck or upgrade to a newer one?


Run it with necessary maintenance only, oil/coolant/etc., until it won't move/go...DO NOT resucitate or spend any more on it...at that point call the scrapper and get what the carcass will bring after you take your goodies out or off of it.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. General consensus is to just run it into the ground, drive it till she's dead. But then I wonder at what point is that? When do I give it up? What if the motor gives out, do I try and source a cheap rebuild, get it installed and keep going?

My general rule of thumb is $1000.
I dont spend more than $1000 on a car, and I dont spend more than $1000 fixing it. (being a poor student sucks sometimes....)

That said, I dont see me getting a truck that nice for $1000...
How much did you just pay for the tranny fix? If you blow your engine you can always go for a 4.0 swap - that'll fix your problems with the hills up to lake Tahoe or whatever. lol
 
That B3K looks pretty clean. You have fixed it to keep it going but its paid for. I do my own work , so it pays to keep with a car for as long as I can I am on my second set of '88 528e s in 17 yrs. A good running car that you've had for awhile is worth maintaining until something happens. If you are paying attention , you can replace stuff before it breaks. Because you know the car, I'm not that good with the Ranger...yet :D
 
Given the body quality I'd keep it, most trucks like these are beat to crap these days. Parts are easy to get and mostly compatible with the Rangers. Tackle that rust issue ASAP, if you don't you'll end up with a vehicle like my bronco 2 that most of the body panels need replaced on thanks to the previous owner's complete neglect and abuse.
 
now that I have seen it , I would keep driving it for sure......the upkeep and repairs would be cheaper in the long run than a new rig.... some newer rigs are spendy to maintain....
 
Fix it up, wear it out, make it do, do without...the solid credo of those who survived the Great Depression, and generally a good philosophy to live by.
.
Genius, pure genius.
...just be sure to shoot it in the block before you walk away or someone fresh across the river will swarm it, put it back in service and kill someone with it and then run off into the bushes.
Ignorance, pure ignorance.


People never fail to surprise me. :thefinger:
 
Before I saw the pic I was going to say if the body is in good shape, in my view stick with it unless you don't like it for other reasons.

Having seen the body, at least cosmetically it looks very good.

Getting mechanical stuff fixed is much easier than dealing with a rusted out body so if it is sound I tend to prefer that route.

As someone said, new car payments are pricey and then there is collision coverage for insurance that is required. Take the combined amount and save it. That will cover an awful lot of repairs. A new vehicle probably will give less hiccups and less shop time but isn't less expensive.

I used to keep two old cars and found that far less expensive than the one newer one I eventually got. The nice thing about the older cars was that if one broke I had a backup. When both were running I would switch which I used so neither was just sitting (cars don't like to sit in my experience) and the change was always pleasant.

I also don't like some of the newer things they are putting into cars such as traction control and antilock brakes. While under typical road conditions both of these systems work fine and as advertised, they have given me grief less than typical yet more or less common road. The traction control cutting throttle as I was pulling into traffic because a bit of sand on the road surface at the intersection. Without traction control the sand would have gotten kicked out from under the tire and it would grab the road. Antilock brakes cutting braking force cause of the sand/gravel that accumulated at the bottom of the driveway at work causing my vehicle to go out into cross traffic in front of a semi. My other car the tires would lock up and while skid a short bit in the sand/gravel, stop the vehicle.

So between annoying technology and cost of new vehicles, I have lost interest and have no problem putting significant money into an older vehicle that has a good body.

As also has been said, it makes no sense to get rid of a vehicle just cause you had to put a bunch of money into recently. That's like fixing up a vehicle for someone else so might as well get some value out of it.

As I see it, suppose someone puts a new engine, a few months later a new trans into a vehicle with a body as good as yours and then...a few months later has an alternator go bad and thinks that is the last straw, I suppose I wouldn't mind taking that lemon off their hands...for the right price since I would be assuming such a risk you know.


And if you are thinking of not a brand new car, but a newer used car, I always think, unless I am really lucky, odds are the car I am looking to buy was someone else's headache so I anticipate some rehab expenses in the not too distant future so the costs get you one way or another so I like to stick what I know unless the body is too far gone to justify putting more money in.
 
.
Genius, pure genius.

Ignorance, pure ignorance.


People never fail to surprise me. :thefinger:

Ah, the fickle finger of fate. Lived long enough to appreciate all three...genius, ignorance and the bird. Unfortunately, the ignorance of our politicians and youngsters currently overwhelms the genius of the generations that built this country. That sound you sometimes hear at night is them rolling over in their graves cause we're giving the nation away for nothing. Back at ya, bro! If yer that offended, swim back across:thefinger::thefinger::thefinger:
 
As someone said, new car payments are pricey and then there is collision coverage for insurance that is required. Take the combined amount and save it. That will cover an awful lot of repairs. A new vehicle probably will give less hiccups and less shop time but isn't less expensive.

This is a very good point. The additional comprehensive & collision insurance cost + registration means probably another $350-$500/yr. This truck is paid off, insurance is cheap (though I did add roadside assistance to it after the recent mishap), and registration is cheap.

I got the transmission fixed for $700 with a full reseal and re-manufactured torque converter. It was bound to go out on me sooner or later, and if I was able to shop around I might have been able to get it done cheaper elsewhere, but I was 100+ miles from home and it was a holiday. Thankfully this was a full time transmission shop and from the looks of things he did a fantastic job. It should be good for more miles than I'll ever put on this truck.

After I finish my tune-up I'll take a look at the rust spots. I don't live where it snows so road salt isn't an issue.
 
How much did you just pay for the tranny fix? If you blow your engine you can always go for a 4.0 swap - that'll fix your problems with the hills up to lake Tahoe or whatever. lol

$700. Drives great now, way different from before.
 
My general rule of thumb is $1000.
I dont spend more than $1000 on a car, and I dont spend more than $1000 fixing it. (being a poor student sucks sometimes....)

That said, I dont see me getting a truck that nice for $1000...
How much did you just pay for the tranny fix? If you blow your engine you can always go for a 4.0 swap - that'll fix your problems with the hills up to lake Tahoe or whatever. lol

This. I also look at it this way as well: If i am spending a car payment in repairs consistantly for more than 3 or 4 months in a row, I would really evaluate what else must be fixed before putting more money into it. Also, if I have spent a car payment in repairs, I will try to get a month use out of it per car payment before selling it to the wrecker... I figure a car payment as about 400 bucks. so If I dump 800 bucks in repairs, I will try to get two months of use out of it minimum before thinking about scrapping it.

AJ
 
The 3.0 is a one off .The 700$ tranny will only fit behind a 3.0
 
In other words, your 700 dollar tranny will only work/ bolt up to a 3.0. all other engines have a different bellhousing bolt pattern.


AJ
 
In other words, your 700 dollar tranny will only work/ bolt up to a 3.0. all other engines have a different bellhousing bolt pattern.


AJ

Ahh, well that's fine. Well if this 3.0 blows and I do end up going the 4.0 route I'd be okay with changing the transmission - it's par for the course. Then again if my current tune up + rear end swap project works out I could be perfectly fine with the 3.0 as is and just get it rebuilt or swapped for another Vulcan rebuild, then keep it for another 10 years.

This is my first truck, and I'm learning that trucks are trucks. It really doesn't matter. I don't care how pretty it is, as long as it runs and the AC works here in CA I'm happy with it for hauling stuff. That's what it's for. If I want comfort/speed/style I'll just drive my STI, so long as I don't need to haul anything that won't fit in the hatch...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top