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I'm sure I got a short.


MY security package (McAfee) is flagging it as possible malicious. So, without knowing what it is, I'm not pushing to go further and try to get to the link.
I did follow the link. It was just an image of an EDIS6 with suggested wiring. Seemed pretty generic though.
Spent A LOT of time in the digital world from the mid-90s.Even sold stuff on CompuServe. Hard coding crap. Today's geeks are so sophisticated it's easy to get weigh-laid if you're not careful.
 
I'm back and thank you guys for the advice on to be cautious about what I click on.
The link is the wire set up for the EDIS-6.
 
I understand the picture and wire set up it shows somewhat in some parts.
However on some parts I'm lost.
I know that pins 12, 11 & 10 all go to the coil pack.
Pin 9 is ground I believe. Pin 8 is power/hot I believe.
Pins 6 & 5 go to the Crankshaft position sensor.
And last night Bobby told me:
" no....two is the ignition diagnosic monitor. it tells the eec/pcm engine rpm and the tachometer if you have one. it is essentially a ground and can backfeed "
Because I thought pin 2 was supposed to be power/ hot as well as pin 8.
 
I understand the picture and wire set up it shows somewhat in some parts.
However on some parts I'm lost.
I know that pins 12, 11 & 10 all go to the coil pack.
Pin 9 is ground I believe. Pin 8 is power/hot I believe.
Pins 6 & 5 go to the Crankshaft position sensor.
And last night Bobby told me:
" no....two is the ignition diagnosic monitor. it tells the eec/pcm engine rpm and the tachometer if you have one. it is essentially a ground and can backfeed "
Because I thought pin 2 was supposed to be power/ hot as well as pin 8.
The diagrams I posted showhowtheedis is being used in your truck.
 
Bobby also told me to:
" start at the eec relay. make sure the dang ol thing is hooked up to pin 8 on the icm "
And I said:
" Okay here's what I just thought of.
Unhook the battery all the way.
Unplug the eec reply.
With the icm unplugged as well.
Put one probe of the multimeter into pin 8 wire hole use the other probe of the multimeter and see if I get anything at any of the spots where the eec relay plugs into. "
He then said:
" Yup "
So today I did that.
 
Yes Curious I truly believe it does, however no one has truly taught me how to read the diagrams you posted.
Sorry to say but I'm not that smart.
 
So today when I did the test Bobby and I talked about from pin 8 to the plug outlet for the eec reply I got continuity at 3 of the 4 ports the reply plugs into.
2 of them are full continuity.
1 has about 7/8 continuity.
And the last post says open lead.
Which as I understand this means there's zero continuity to that point.
 
Has anyone dared to go to the 50/50 test yet? I'm not sure I am smart enough to do that.?
 
Yes Curious I truly believe it does, however no one has truly taught me how to read the diagrams you posted.
Sorry to say but I'm not that smart.
Ok. I believe you ARE smart enough. You ARE intelligent. You just haven't been taught. So, Here we go.

Referring to the diagram below, The box at the bottom is the EDIS, your ignition controller. I have highlighted the connector in light blue. Over at the right-hand side, you will see the notation "C176". This is the connector number. The numbers are the pins in the connector. This is a common theme. at the top left, you see a box that says "solid state" and is labelled "PCM". This is the computer that manages the engine. it is sometimes called PCM, ECM, ECU, etc. depending on the manufacturer and the timeframe, or the yahoos you're talking to, the name may change. You can see that pins 4, 56, 36 and 16 on the PCM connect to pins 2, 1, 3 and 4 (purple) on the ignition Control Module. One wire provides speed feedback (pin 2). Pin 1, PIP, communicates the crankshaft angle information. Pin 3, SPOUT, is related to spark advancement. that changes the spark timing to account for load on the engine. Pin 4 ties the grounds of the ICM and ECU together. This is just necessary to make the electronics work in harmony with each other.

I highlighted ground connections in yellow. some cables are electrically shielded to protect them from stray electrical signals that may interfere with their operation. shields are tied to ground.

Next is the crankshaft position sensor, pins 5 and 6 (magenta) on the Ignition Control Module (ICM), another shielded cable. Your ICM sends voltage out to the sensor and reads what comes back. There is a toothed wheel on the harmonic balancer. When the teeth of this wheel move past the Crankshaft position sensor, they alter the magnetic flux in the sensor and the ICM reads these pulses to know how fast the crank is turning.

Pins 10, 11, and 12 (pink) are connected to the 3 ignition coils. this is where the real work of the ICM is done. the coils have voltage applied any time the key switch is in start or run. The ICM completes these circuits to ground at the proper timing to provide spark in the correct cylinders according to the crankshaft position and PIP and SPOUT signals.

Finally, in green, is power supply to the ICM. This comes from the PCM power relay (sometimes called the EEC relay). that relay is turned on any time the key is in the start or run positions. This is shown over at the right-hand side of page 26-1 in the photos I posted.

you said; "So today when I did the test Bobby and I talked about from pin 8 to the plug outlet for the eec relay I got continuity at 3 of the 4 ports the reply plugs into.
2 of them are full continuity. "

On a common 5-pin automotive relay, Pins 85 and 86 are the coil. this is the "control" side of the relay. a relay is just a switch that is turned on and off by controlling an electromagnetic coil. so, 85 and 86 are the coil. you should not have continuity from ICM pin 8 to either of those pins. pin 30 on the relay is usually the voltage that you want to turn on and off. So with key off, you should not have power to pin 30 and you should not have continuity from the ICM to pin 30. Pin 87 is often connected to the load that you want to supply power to. so, with key off, you should have no power on in 87 of the EEC relay. But you SHOUL have continuity from the ICM pin 8 to EEC relay pin 87. pin 87A on the EEC relay is not used. It is a normally closed contact and will act exactly opposite of pin 87. When the key is turned to the start or run positions, the coil should energize and close the switch contacts between pins 30 and 87, thereby supplying power to ICM pin 8.

Ignition.jpg
 
Rumblecloud mentioned "the 50/50 test". This is a good test to start with. Basically, try to start the engine while spraying starting fluid (or gas) into the intake. If the engine starts to fire or run on the starting fluid and dies when you stop squirting the starting fluid, then you have spark and are wasting time worrying bout spark. It is a fuel delivery problem. If it does not try to start on the starting fluid, then you have a spark issue.
 
i did tell him to hit it with ether


and to make sure it has gas in it.
 
so the red green stripe has power at the coil....that is good

the 3 fire wires all test good.

, and the crank sensor wires are good and the sensor tested....and i assume the sensor is the right distance from the balancer teeth...

and pin 8 on the icm has power now?

does pin 9 have good connection to ground?


might be a bad coil....

did you try starting fluid and cranking?


and for sure there is fuel in it?





and pin 8 on the icm has power now?

does pin 9 have good connection to ground?


might be a bad coil....

did you try starting fluid and cranking?


and for sure there is fuel in it?
 
Sorry guys I was off for a bit on a phone call from Alaska ( family member) so I didn't want to hang up back now and will read what's been said while I was gone.
 
The first thing I ever try when any vehicle does not start is spaying some starting fluid in the intake.
Be it the carburetor or the butterfly valve of the intake on fuel injected vehicles.
That's always my go to. To start diagnosing any problem with any vehicle that don't start.
So yes I've tried starting fluid.
 

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