How much higher does a prerunner sit in the back than stock?

[nooch450]

Ok so if you cut and turn your beams you get 4 inches of lift in the front....

I want to do the 64 inch leaf swap with a 12 inch arc in the rear with the 7 inch shackle and flipped mount, which leaves me with no lift according to the tech library.

Do prerunners sit lower in the back by 4 inches? or do they make custom brackets to not only flip the shackle mount but drop it down 4, 3, or 2 inches causing a lift?

Also, at what percent of the full suspention stroke should the truck sit at on level ground? Meaning % Compressed? front and back...

Im really trying to learn alot befor i dig into my truck... i think its best for the wallet that way, ill be less likely to make costly design mistakes or order the wrong parts....

Thanks Guys!

 

[Hagan]

If your flipping your rear shackle mount then getting a longer shackle you are lowering it. To lift it...you will actually need shorter shackles.

 

[charlie brown]

it would depend on how you are using the truck most of the time.

i adjust my truck depending on where i am going and what i am going to be doing.

you cant go wrong with a 50/50 set up. so if you have 16" travel, try and get 8" up and down.

 

[nooch450]

it would depend on how you are using the truck most of the time.

i adjust my truck depending on where i am going and what i am going to be doing.

you cant go wrong with a 50/50 set up. so if you have 16" travel, try and get 8" up and down.

why so much droop? im was thinking 30-40% compressed sitting level.

any info on my other questions?

thanks

 

[nooch450]

If your flipping your rear shackle mount then getting a longer shackle you are lowering it. To lift it...you will actually need shorter shackles.

yes but the 64 inch leafs are bent more and are longer, so it makes up for it, and if i drop the whole shackle mount down i will lift the truck back up...

not sure if it needs to be lifted back up or not is the problem....

 

[RavoHimself]

well if you want to run 33's and want suspension travel, your either gonna need new bed sides or to lift the back of truck. try flipping the stock shackles with the new leaves and see where it sits. i bet you will see its good

 

[AaronC]

I have always done 60% compression travel and 40% droop. Having that 10% can do wonders when something nasty comes in your path.. Although on a rear link style suspension it becomes a whole different world..

 

[AaronC]

Nooch..

Your easiest bet is to find a used set of deavers and run with the same shackle setup you stated..

If you feel upto the task of tackling the 64's.
Your best bet is to build a hybrid leaf pack using the main leaf from the 64's. Take them to a spring shop and have some arch work done on them.

When your setting up your shackle and spring hangars, you should break down the leaf pack to just the main. Move the hangars around while cycling the suspension. Measure axle plunge and look out for de- arch at full compression (when the leaf starts to arch the other way...)
C-Notch the frame if your leaf pack will allow it..

 

[nooch450]

Nooch..

Your easiest bet is to find a used set of deavers and run with the same shackle setup you stated..

If you feel upto the task of tackling the 64's.
Your best bet is to build a hybrid leaf pack using the main leaf from the 64's. Take them to a spring shop and have some arch work done on them.

When your setting up your shackle and spring hangars, you should break down the leaf pack to just the main. Move the hangars around while cycling the suspension. Measure axle plunge and look out for de- arch at full compression (when the leaf starts to arch the other way...)
C-Notch the frame if your leaf pack will allow it..

I was going to cut the eyes off the stock ranger leafs and combind them with the 64" and make one big pack, get them rearched, and than try different things with different leaf combinations....

So... by you indicating i may need to c notch my frame, your basically saying the rears dont get lifted from stock? they sit as low as possible, causing prerunneres to sit lower in the back than the front? Or am I wrong?


thanks aaron

 

[RaceRanger97]

The reason you end up with lift with the set-up in your origional post is because when I and most others flip the shackle mount, it is also lowered below the frame rail. This takes away some of the height loss when running a 7" shackle.

 

[charlie brown]

why so much droop? im was thinking 30-40% compressed sitting level.

any info on my other questions?

thanks

my reply was just a general statement where you cant go wrong with a basic set up.

it is just as important for the wheel to drop as it is to compress. think of it this way, if your wheel goes into a hol and it can not drop enough to keep the wheels on the ground a couple of this will happen. one will be loss of traction which will be very hard on the drive train, hard to steer when wheels re not on ground, and when it does make contact again, it has a lot more force and will need to compress even more.

My truck is not a race truck or a supper gnarly all out race speed prerunner. It does have 20+” up front and 28” travel in the rear. When I go to baja it is about 50/50. that just seems to give me a good comfort ride to cruise around prerunning for 300+ miles a day.
I set my truck up to be lower around on the street. It makes it much easier to get in and out of and it blends in more with other trucks so the police to bother me as much.

 

[nooch450]

The reason you end up with lift with the set-up in your origional post is because when I and most others flip the shackle mount, it is also lowered below the frame rail. This takes away some of the height loss when running a 7" shackle.

ok so where the rear shackle mounts to the frame (on the shackle mount) how much lower is the center of the bolt from the bottom of the frame?

my reply was just a general statement where you cant go wrong with a basic set up.

it is just as important for the wheel to drop as it is to compress. think of it this way, if your wheel goes into a hol and it can not drop enough to keep the wheels on the ground a couple of this will happen. one will be loss of traction which will be very hard on the drive train, hard to steer when wheels re not on ground, and when it does make contact again, it has a lot more force and will need to compress even more.

My truck is not a race truck or a supper gnarly all out race speed prerunner. It does have 20+” up front and 28” travel in the rear. When I go to baja it is about 50/50. that just seems to give me a good comfort ride to cruise around prerunning for 300+ miles a day.
I set my truck up to be lower around on the street. It makes it much easier to get in and out of and it blends in more with other trucks so the police to bother me as much.

I hear yah... i think im going to set mine up around 60/40 in the front to get a little more ground clearence in the front, this is because i plan on running drop brackets, it is to expensive to get my 4x4 beams shipped somewhere to get cut and turned. i was looking at 4 inch drop brackets but was wondering if that was to much? maybe i should look for 2-3 inch drop brackets?...

i want to run 35's though, im running this truck in mostly open trails and sand pits and i want the little extra ground clearence....

The back, i will prob run 55/45 to keep the center of gravity lower...

Let me know your opinion, im very interested, this is my first build!