Hole in Front Differential :( Rebuild, Repair, or Patch?

[beeheadted]

Looking for recommendations. 1994 4x4 4.0 with an installed 4in Rough Country lift when bought.
I’ve done my research and the rough country style drop brackets seem to have taken another victim. I haven’t checked if bump stops are just deteriorating which allowed the axle to travel up or if they kissed even with the stops.
Tuffcountry seems to sell a better style pivot bracket that I can just swap out for mine. Correct me if i’m wrong but I plan to do that in the future.
I don’t know how long the hole has been there but i’m almost positive the front diff has not been engaged since it has happened (neither 4x4 engaged or locked hubs) but the hole has been open to air for a while until I found it.

So am I wrong to think it’s possible I could pull the diff get the housing chunks out, patch hole, and slap it all together? That is if the gears haven’t chewed the metal and i’m wrong abt not engaging since the hole (it’s not a live diff right?). Or is exposure to the elements shot bearings etc.?

Just wanted advice here, i’m pretty handy and i’m sure I could pull a junkyard diff but would you gamble on a junkyard find?
Any way to check condition before pulling the whole diff in the yard?

Or pull a junk diff for the intact housing and have it rebuilt? For the price I may just gamble on the junk find.

Thanks for any reply’s!

 

[scotts90ranger]

A junkyard diff is likely the best way, as long as they don't have a hole in them like that then they're usually fine especially if the rest of the rig looks decent...

The only good way to patch that would be to weld it up which wouldn't be all that fun... doable for the right person that can weld aluminum though...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Fun fact, you pretty much have to pull the beam to get the diff if your donor truck has the stock suspension.

I pulled one to get a spare axle shaft, it was all I could do to wedge the diff out enough to get the C-clip out. It was not coming all the way out unless I pulled the beam.

So if you go that route plan accordingly.

I would be more worried about water intrusion and whatnot in yours. If you pull it apart you not out much, you will have to pull the diff to replace it anyway. If it looks ok inside you could probably find someone to weld it. If not, hit JY's.

 

[farmer]

I've JB welded over worse lol

It won't last forever, but it buys you time to get a new diff (might as well do lower gears too)

 

[SenorNoob]

My biggest concern with this would be matching the gear ratio with a junkyard diff. Other than that not technically hard just time consuming to get everything apart.

If I were going to the junkyard for that I'd try for a 95-97 axle assembly. Newer, hopefully less wear, dual piston front brakes with replaceable pad guides. Be careful of hybrid axles too.

 

[farmer]

My biggest concern with this would be matching the gear ratio with a junkyard diff. Other than that not technically hard just time consuming to get everything apart.

If I were going to the junkyard for that I'd try for a 95-97 axle assembly. Newer, hopefully less wear, dual piston front brakes with replaceable pad guides. Be careful of hybrid axles too.

Why? Read the door code of truck 1 and match it to junkyard truck 2. Worse case is a gear swap. Local shop used to charge me $80 to set up a Ranger front 3rd member.

I wouldn't even worry about the 95+ knuckle stuff. Doesn't make enough difference to warrant unless your stuff is that sacked out.

 

[Shran]

I'm guessing you'd be looking at $2-500 for setting up gears...just basing that on what I have paid in the past - $2-350 for labor and a master install kit. Sure you can reuse bearings and I would if I was doing it but a reputable gear guy will never do that.

I wouldn't worry about the 95+ knuckles either. I prefer the old style calipers & slide pins, very rare to see failures there. Personal preference but I think the new style bolt on calipers & slide pins that are on literally every make & model are designed to fail...way more moving parts. I don't feel that dual piston calipers are an upgrade either in most situations, pretty common to see one stuck piston on daily drivers that ruins a set of pads.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have ran both brake systems, currently have a truck with each... I like the more modern style bolt on calipers but I am not rushing out to update the '91...

Both work fine IMO.