Gauge Cluster short 1996 Ranger

[98v70dad]

It turns out that the slosh module MOV has some id info on it so maybe the odometer MOV will also have id info on it. If it does and that's all that's wrong I'm home free. Will publish part numbers when I'm done if I find them. The MOV from the slosh module is a TDK part.

 

[98v70dad]

The MOV in the slosh module has the following written on it:

05185
EXSF-AA
TDK

This info seems to be useless because I couldn't find a TDK part with that part number. From what I can tell part of that is a date code and EXSF-AA is maybe a Ford specification.

V14E14AUTO from Littelfuse seems like it might do the job but I'm not sure. I picked it from the chart on page 22 of the link I posted yesterday. I based the choice on the rated voltage and the diameter.

I'm taking the MOV off the odometer circuit board tonight and will see it it has any identifying info on it.

 

[98v70dad]

I took the MOV off the speedo circuit board last night so I can put the speedo back in the truck temporarily on Saturday and see if fuse #25 blows. I expect that it won't since I determined that the gauge cluster was shorted by removing things on the circuit one at a time and I found my short in the last cluster which was the last item removed. I spent a ridiculous amount of time looking for a suitable replacement MOV and found a couple of "candidates" that I think will work.

I'll post that info after I get a successful re-install of the gauge cluster. I have two MOV's picked out. One is better than the original in durability and the other is pretty close to the original. This is all based on reading peoples posts on the internet (other sites) and some guesswork.

The MOV can take a certain amount of voltage spike pulse for a certain number of times so more than one MOV would work. The one ford put in is the cheaper option. It only takes a hit from a spike a few times. By spending a little more you can get one that takes 5 times the hits before it completely fails. The extra cost is around a quarter. I think the more durable one is the better choice but I'm not sure, though. The cheaper one does its job a few times and then fails completely. The more durable one does its job more times and then fails completely. Its like a cheap power strip surge protector as opposed to an expensive power strip surge protector. Do you guys think there is any benefit from only being able to work for a couple of surges?

 

[98v70dad]

Today I put the gauge cluster with the bad MOV removed back in the truck. When I was cleaning the gunk out of the worm gear it fell apart so I left the odo motor out until I can get the new gear (about a week). I test drove the truck about 5 miles and everything works - so I guess when I get a new gear and a new MOV I'll be back in business. For the next week or so the ranger will still be parked. Today I bought a cheap used gauge cluster for parts in case I need something else. I could take the MOV out of that but I'd rather put in a new one.

Today I noticed that one of my gauges is weeping a little damping oil. It was fine before I took it out of the truck and I've been pretty careful with it. Should I be concerned about that or is in normal to leak some oil after the cluster is turned on its side for a while?

 

[Curious Hound]

What gauge do you think has oil in it?

Your dog probably peed on the cluster while you had it out.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^^, nothing in that cluster should "weep" anything, maybe some "grease" on worm gear got heated up

 

[98v70dad]

+1 ^^^^, nothing in that cluster should "weep" anything, maybe some "grease" on worm gear got heated up

There is a lightweight oil leaking out of the center of one of the gauges. Feels like oil, smells like oil. Started AFTER I removed it from the truck. Cleaned it up once more leaked out

 

[Curious Hound]

Blinker fluid.

 

[98v70dad]

I just found the answer on the ford-trucks forum website. The gauges are filled with lightweight oil to damp them so they don't bounce around, like I said. Ford says it might leak out if you turn the cluster face down which I did.

 

[RonD]

Well that's news to me

Thanks for the update


So maybe it IS a REAL oil pressure gauge after all, if it starts bouncing it means the oil has leaked out............of the gauge

 

[98v70dad]

Update: I repaired the gauge cluster and made some upgrades to it. 1) The simplest upgrade was putting in new light bulbs. I put in sylvania long lifes. The cluster takes 194's and 12 74's. Its a lot of work to get the cluster out to replace a bulb so since it was already removed I decided to replace all of them. 2) The worm gear that drives the odometer fell apart in my hands when removing the motor that drives the odometer so I put in an aftermarket new one. They are easy to find on amazon or ebay. 3) The reason for all of this was a failed MOV varistor which caused a short. I removed the original MOV and replaced it with p/n V14E14AUTO. I think B72210S1140K102 would also work but its slightly less robust. The varistors are less than a dollar each. I bought mine from digikey and the shipping cost more than the part. Varistors are sort of like fuses that protect against voltage surges. If the varistor has failed the cluster will work if you remove the varistor but it won't be protected from voltage surges. I found very little info on how to choose a replacement varistor. I picked one with the same nominal voltage rating and same diameter. My choice was an educated guess, but I think it will work. 4) I mentioned that one of my gauges was weeping oil - I don't know why that happened. On the 96 ranger ther is no reservoir for gauge damping oil. I just cleaned up the "leaked"" oil and it seems to work fine. 5) I bought a replacement gauge cluster for $35 in case I needed some parts. It was supposed to be a direct replacement for my model year and the part number is the same. Note that the location of the warning lights is different. If you live in a state that requires the check engine light to work in order to pass the smog test buying another model year cluster may not work for you. In my case it was a waste of money since the check engine light is in a different spot.

 

[RonD]

Thanks for the update and ALL the great info

 

[98v70dad]

I spoke too soon maybe. Everything worked fine for a week and I took the cluster out last night to replace the bulbs (last step). When I put the cluster back in today the self test doesn't light the bulbs when I start up. Annoying as its gets. The spare cluster I bought also doesn't light up. Blown fuse? No idea. Just really annoyed at the moment. Currently want to drop kick the ranger as far as possible.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

?

 

[98v70dad]

I checked my fuses and fuse 11 is blown so whatver it is is not directly related to what I've fixed. I'm stumped actually. The gauge cluster is hard to get in and out and maybe I shorted some of the cluster wire connectors squeezing it in or disconnecting it. May the fuse was on its ragged edge from before. Maybe the alternator I bought is no good. It came with test results and itwas right on the money for everything they measured. Sick of dealing with this actually....