Ford Scraptor

[highstakes]

Hey all, trying to button up my prerunner before my upcoming move and the brakes are giving me some trouble

I have a 91 4.0 4wd extended cab that I recently manual swapped to an m5r1hd, welded the diff, and installed deaver and bilstein long travel in the rear, and finished fabricating my dana 44 ttb swap

BUT
It has next to no front brakes. The rears are working after my line extension and bleed and the f350 master cylinder swap, but the dana 44 brakes up front just aren't getting the job done. The piston will extend if I take them off and pump them, just takes a good deal of pumping. I used steel braided line from the master down to the trans mount, then split to 2 steel braided lines that run along the radius arms to the calipers. Any ideas what I'm missing?

I didn't rebuild these calipers so it occured to me that there could be pressure from rust preventing the piston from moving properly, but the pedal is still squishy and does nothing till it hits the floor, and the fluid runs out clear now. No leaks anywhere either.
Is it a bad thing to use a steel braided line off the master? Its fine for bikes so I thought it would be ok here.
Do I need to mess with the rabs/proportioning system?
Thanks for the read!

 

[highstakes]

Hey all, trying to button up my prerunner before my upcoming move and the brakes are giving me some trouble

I have a 91 4.0 4wd extended cab that I recently manual swapped to an m5r1hd, welded the diff, and installed deaver and bilstein long travel in the rear, and finished fabricating my dana 44 ttb swap

BUT
It has next to no front brakes. The rears are working after my line extension and bleed and the f350 master cylinder swap, but the dana 44 brakes up front just aren't getting the job done. The piston will extend if I take them off and pump them, just takes a good deal of pumping. I used steel braided line from the master down to the trans mount, then split to 2 steel braided lines that run along the radius arms to the calipers. Any ideas what I'm missing?

I didn't rebuild these calipers so it occured to me that there could be pressure from rust preventing the piston from moving properly, but the pedal is still squishy and does nothing till it hits the floor, and the fluid runs out clear now. No leaks anywhere either.
Is it a bad thing to use a steel braided line off the master? Its fine for bikes so I thought it would be ok here.
Do I need to mess with the rabs/proportioning system?
Thanks for the read!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Maybe you have the lines backwards? The larger back reservoir goes to the front brakes.

 

[highstakes]

Maybe you have the lines backwards? The larger back reservoir goes to the front brakes.

Yeah I was weirded out that the ranger reservoir was backwards like that so I researched the 350 master and made sure i set it up that way

 

[superj]

What are your front piston sizes versus the front master piston?

I wonder if an adjustable pressure splitter would help? What are they called, uhhh? Dang, I can't think what those are called

 

[highstakes]

What are your front piston sizes versus the front master piston?

I wonder if an adjustable pressure splitter would help? What are they called, uhhh? Dang, I can't think what those are called

A proportioning valve? I think these have one on the rear brake hard-line on the frame but I don't know how to work all that RABS crap.

No clue about the piston sizes I will try to Google them. It's a stock 85 f350 master cylinder and stock 91 f150 brake calipers.

What's the relationship between the two?

 

[superj]

That's it, proportionung valve. How about an adjustable proportioning valve

 

[highstakes]

To decrease pressure to the rear so more goes up front?
New master cylinder is 1 1/8 and new brakes are 2 7/8 is that ok?