finally dropping the front end! need some information

[TheCookieMonster85]

whats up guys
i have a 94 b3000 that i finally got running this year due to a broken diff
so i dropped the rear end..belltech flip kit and i flipped the hangers with 15x8 235/60/15 to get thi beautiful stance

the problem is the front with these stupid I-Beams...i bought the dream beams (3" drop) and drop coils (2" drop)

now heres my problem:
put the truck on the lift so i can check out the condition...well the main axle mount bolt that holds the i-beam, radius arm, coil, and spindle together is rusted all together...what i noticed is that theres coupling/spring seat that hold down the coil which is help on by that same bolt

my question is:
how can i take everything apart without damaging the spring seat?
and is there a bushing at the top hole of the dream/i-beam that needs to be replaced?

im looking at buying 4-6-15-16
does this make sense?

im driving around with my ass on the floor and my nose sky high...its annoying!

 

[JoshT]

The bolt that holds the radius arm and beam together does not have anything to do with the spindle.

From the bottom up. The bolt (6) goes comes out of the radius arm (5), has a washer and nut (not shown), then goes through a steel spring seat (16), there may be a plastic/rubber insulator (15) on top of the seat, then through the spring. There is a "cup" (14) that drops down through the spring and a nut (not shown) that loosely clamps the spring to the beam. I'm surprised if that rubber insulator is still intact, every ranger I've seen that age they are gone. You may damage the insulator but I doubt you will damage the spring seat since it just drops over the bolt.

For the bushing at 4. That would be your camber bushing. Its metal and you will need to transfer it to your new beams. If you are also installing drop springs you may need adjustable bushings, but stock are usually OK for beams only.

You still got the first gen, or am i thinking about a different cookiemonster? There used to be a member with a similar username that had a sweet looking blue first gen.

 

[doorgunner]

If the long bolt and nut(s) are rusted that much.....you could use a side-grinder with a cut-off wheel in order to cut the head off the long bolt...that would keep from ruining the spring seat and the spring cup....

JUST MAKE SURE THAT THE ARM IS SUPPORTED AND THE COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED AND WRAPPED WITH A CHAIN TO KEEP IT FROM BREAKING YOUR ARM WHEN YOU ARE REMOVING BOLTS/NUTS!!!!!

 

[JoshT]

JUST MAKE SURE THAT THE ARM IS SUPPORTED AND THE COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED AND WRAPPED WITH A CHAIN TO KEEP IT FROM BREAKING YOUR ARM WHEN YOU ARE REMOVING BOLTS/NUTS!!!!!

Better off raising the truck and removing all tension/pressure from the spring. Going to have to do that anyway since the beam is being removed. What I did was to disconnect the shock and sway bar, then put the truck on jackstands to remove all compression from the springs. Then I used a floor jack to support the end of the beam and remove tension from the spring while I removed the retaining cup from the bolt. Once that was removed, lowered the floor jack and the spring was free to be removed without shooting across the room.

 

[Insanejughead]

Get a tow-ball wrench! They have both 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" and are priceless for working on ranger front ends.

CookieMonster, you'll find that it's nearly impossible to ruin the spring hardware when taking them out.

Once you get the exposed nut off of the radius arm/I-beam bolt, you will be able to remove the spring and get to the second nut. Once you have both nuts off, then you can worry about getting the bolt out. I (and so many other ranger owners) recommend taking your time with it after you've soaked it down in a rust-buster penetrant of your choice, then use the tow-ball wrench to work the bolt head back and forth. Try to break it free by twisting it.

If that doesn't get it out, then take one of the pressed nuts that came off and thread it on backwards until it's flush with the end of the bolt. Now you can hit the bolt to knock it out without damaging the threads and causing problems later.

 

[JoshT]

Thanks for that tip, never thought about using a tow-ball wrench. Got one sitting in the bottom of the box, but never thought about it being the sizes I needed.

Yes definitely soak it down good with good penetrant (aka not WD-40). Dad always used to tell me to start soaking it a week before you are ready to do the work, spray it down about every other day. If at all possible take your time, I do realize that is not possible. If the bolt starts coming out but stops, don't force it. Spray some more penetrant on there, run it back in a little, and work it back and forth some. I know I don't get as much rust down here as you do, but my 86 model came apart really easy and it's got about 8 years on yours.

 

[doorgunner]

That may be the ONLY good thing about engine oil leaks.......


the suspension bolts don't rust up.........

 

[TheCookieMonster85]

so apparently i never received emails telling me that someone replied to my posts!!!
sorry about the late responce been working on the car more

no i dont think im the same guy...CookieMonster is the name of my 1st gen rx7 that i have..and yes it is blue

thanks so much for your help..turns out ive been waiting all this time for nothing!
been waiting for original bolts and spring seats for the past month! i coulda had a fully lowered truck! :'(

gunna go buy some bolts and get that shit asap!

today i discovered that my tire was shredded due to retarded camber caused by cutting one coil...oopsy