FAST Fabrication 94 b4000 turn into SNORE class 7 race truck build thread

[FAST Fabrication]

quick post im wiped..i could not recover the pictures, it keeps asking to formt the card anytime i turn the camera off, so i grab a different camera.

spark plug E3's and jba wires

cover

prepping firewall

new addition

had got my last gauge today minus my tach, but decided to get one more now... an oil press for trans

mockup

bumper still is removable, we tore down the front to clean up and paint

regulator

radiator all welded up, had to outsource my guy on vacation

maf adapter, we made the ring out of 1/8 6061 using a hammer and vise among other things as well as end of a fire extinguisher, then had it welded up

here is intake hose, this is actually a better intake hose you can see the fiber reinforcements

in the back of this picture you can see the radiator high pressure hose it also has fiber reinforcement

 

[FAST Fabrication]

firewall is complete, as well as paint

started reassembly after paint.... were loctite and antiseize bolts and torqueing them... everything is going back on for final front end assembly, once all done we will install the lines and run the electrical for the front

built our secondary bump stops... in case a can or hyraulic bump stop fails up front, don't want the beam going up into the motor, with how low we dropped the motor, it will hit, so we are solid mounting these to the bottom of our frame

 

[FAST Fabrication]

radiator mount

hose clamps are freaking expensive like $30 to do my radiator... so i found a place online for half the cost but have to order at least 10 but it works out since i need at least 10, so just cause their not on the radiator does not mean they will not be their lol....

intake

 

[FAST Fabrication]

As always get back to AZ and have packages to open up, got the last piece for the trans a locking dipstick.. got the pumps for the tank, now all I need are those expensive connectors and fuel system is done, got a sweet an crescent from -3 to -20 for cheap

Got my goodies from Lee steering

JuanCo wire harness… with a reflash, not the typical chip… if you can afford go that route instead of the chip… can’t thank Juan enough

I needed a little more dom to do underneath, door bars, and spare tire mount.. could not believe the cost… quoted 5.85 from the person I use to always buy from in Santa Ana at $78 for a stick… called the little steel shop out here in AZ, they had two sticks left and oddly there were 19 footers… was still much higher then what I was used to but got them for $4.50…. this has been the worst part about this project.. I originally bought 400 ft and got screwed out of 200 ft, I have probably almost bought that now, maybe a little more with having to fix front…these two sticks should finish it for the 1.75 dom

A couple parts that showed up that my dad installed… the new alternator showed up, I was under the impression that it was not available in thermal coating… thx powermaster for hooking it up…. The fuel rail connection is complete

Pick up our service bed for the f-350.. this was one of those 3w I believe that go for over 12k and we scored it for under a grand

He built the new spare tire mount.. keep it away from thieves and sun damage.. works just like your normal under truck spare tire system

Started working on the f-350… all dynamatted.. getting a new color interior go better with race paint job.. it got new shoes, stereo system, cb, and race radio all going in along with some captains chairs… headers and a bunch more… this thing has 28K original miles

 

[FAST Fabrication]

Gutted the f-350 dynamat and everything.. were doing our own upholstery.. complete radio and amps, plus race radio and cb radio..and much more in the

Plumbing on the front is complete…only two lines not run, the fuel pick-up and return (because still fabrication to do under truck)… I totally forgot about the flexplate, so have to push off trans for a few days and had to borrow money for it, so I wouldn’t have to push off for a month… but that 300 was suppose to go towards the driveshaft so….hopefully I can still get everything I need, otherwise wont have money to finish until first week of August….Mostly depends on the driveshaft and all the electrical parts cost… anyways I did not want to risk damaging my 2+K trans with a sheetmetal flexplate, so got the culhane billet one

It may look like some pictures there is rubbing or close to things, but it’s just an illusion, nothing rubs and everything has plenty of room and a lot of line are rigid cause how short they are.. the first two pics are the engine oil, the lines are just sitting there, won’t do the mounting until we have the rest of lines ran for electrical and other stuff down that portion of frame

I forgot I had some -6 lines so I ditch that stainless we had laying around.. and also ran a short line for the drain on the over flow..going to use the same line for my trans vent…fiber braided hose for a vent hose..lol

There was a ridiculous carbon build up… we got the intake runners clean.. here’s a before and after pic of the heads after being soaked in carb cleaner… right now we’re trying to get that plastic intake cleaned…. That’s valuable performance that I can gain by just taking the time to do a little extra work

 

[ozziemo27]

This build looks like some quality stuff and I'm liking what I see for the most part but those stitch welds really degrade the quality of workmanship of the entire build.

 

[FAST Fabrication]

my dad did those..the only important one is the radiator mount the other is just a extended tube...

but our welder is a certified welder and told my dad... (my dad is a carpenter and he hasnt figure out how to weld tube perfectly yet, and our welder was telling him.. if you keep it hot and do it quick its just as strogt..in fact he did it on the side of the bump mounts because the plaing we built had butted edges at that point, so he said it was better to do that outrher wise you get a flat weld...

if you keep the heat up and dont allow it to cool its just about as strong...

but will keep an eye on everything... will be thoroughly checking the tubing after testing and races.. we got a few areas were there was concern wether we neaded more plate bracing or if it was just extra weight

thx for the input

 

[FAST Fabrication]

there has been like 5 welders on this truck... first two were not good..my dads first welds were ok, he has gotten a lot better, you can see the difference...then there are the welds that our shop welder did which are by far easy to spot..problem is he has another job and responsibilities so i only call him when we have a lot for him to weld or customer work

 

[ozziemo27]

our welder is a certified welder

Is that what he told you?

 

[FAST Fabrication]

yes and nearly 10 years ago after we graduated he went to college for welding... so i believe him

 

[ozziemo27]

yes and nearly 10 years ago after we graduated he went to college for welding... so i believe him

I think you have been mis-informed. There is no "end all" thing that makes you an actual certified welder for all processes, positions, etc whether you went to college or not. A welders certification is a certificate you apply for a specific process to a specific code. So unless your welder has taken a welder's certification test in the past 6 months or submitted a maintenance form. He/she is not a certified welder. I mean, its no problem if your welder is making good welds and thats fine for what you're doing. I just don't like seeing that term thrown around incorrectly. And if he has taken tests etc and this is all irrelevant and I'm just cluttering up your build thread, lol. Keep up the good work!

 

[FAST Fabrication]

yeah i dont know.. all i know is he was certified in stick welding.. since he hasnt done that in awhile its probably expired... he just started tig welding a few months back

 

[FAST Fabrication]

engine harness is all set up.. minus a few wires for senders and warning lights and the battery cable electrical is done on front...

took advantage of all the stuff we cut off or removed, everything is nicely secured

spent 2 days getting the intake clean.. soaking, scrubbing, carb cleaner, parts cleaner... almost like new..

the tig guy is suppose to be dropping off the radiator tube with all the bungs off at any time

 

[FAST Fabrication]

got the radiator and intake tube back...intake tube was welded flush on inside..took an old barb fitting cut it and took anodize off...so we could ditch that molded plastic tube and replace it with silicone

radiator tube, got the ect sensor, mechanical temp gauge, and warning light bungs all in

 

[FAST Fabrication]

Got the boots on the steering and got the steering all mounted up and torque, that is not paint on the bolt, its anti-seize so it does not freeze up in the sleeves

My last part for the trans should be here tonight, my culhane flexplate… will be jumping on that in the morning…

Pulled the valve covers, for a 130+k the passenger side was really clean, and the driver just had a little bit of build up, clean the covers… try to polish with a dremel did not work well

Driver side

I did not like the black gaskets so I decided to paint them blue

Thank you ford for tapping all the holes on the block, just had to find some tiny bolts out of my big jar of stock bolts, spark plugs are nice and secure, better than the stock clips that crumble, and a lot less

Intake is on and bolted up, tubes are all cut to length and clamped, just need to get some -12 hose to replace that plastic tube