EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE... a few quick questions.

[fixizin]

SEEMS like a great idea, but... what guarantees that it "times up" when tightened to the recommended torque? i.e. how do you make sure that the on/off handle winds up conveniently at 12 o'clock, instead of at 6 o'clock, where it would be vulnerable to damage, not to mention getting dirty oil all over it when used...?

 

[pjtoledo]

shims, thicker or thinner washers.
trial & error method.

 

[bobbywalter]

i use them on the rig engines. mostly 15 liter cat and cummins and a few detroits....mtu

they end up where they end up. the ones i use work ok but with no way to cap them i am very leary.

would never put one on my personal vehicle.

 

[JoshT]

No idea, but in most scenarios I don't think it would matter where they end up clocked. If it really matters to you that it's clocked to the top, I'd look for a crush washer the right size and tighten valve to preferred position. The typical copper/aluminum drain plug washer would be considered a crush washer.

EDIT: or just listen to pj and bobby since they beat me to it. That's what I get for opening the thread then doing other stuff before replying.

 

[fixizin]

shims, thicker or thinner washers.
trial & error method.

Say WHUT!?... there's a countersunk rubber O-ring, just as on the OEM plug, so WHERE would any washers/shims go... that wouldn't LEAK??

 

[fixizin]

...
they end up where they end up. the ones i use work ok but with no way to cap them i am very leary.

would never put one on my personal vehicle.

They have some standard threads on the output for a hose nipple, so I'm sure they COULD be capped... but then that kinda defeats the purpose, lol...

 

[pjtoledo]

that's the fun part of trial & error, trying to figure out what actually works.

if you want to get deeply involved and technical a shim under the O ring to keep the seal,
then a same sized shim under only the metal mating surface on the valve.

or, you can glue the shim directly to the oil pan.

of course you have to try it first to see where it's clocked. then take note of how far it needs turned.
then get the thread pitch and multiply the percentage of the turn by the pitch to get the thickness of the needed shims.

are you sure you want that valve????

 

[bobbywalter]

They have some standard threads on the output for a hose nipple, so I'm sure they COULD be capped... but then that kinda defeats the purpose, lol...

that depends.

the highflo have a ridge that a hose nipple can clip to.

some have an external...some internal. i was using one piece internal ball valves with a metric to standard adapter for the pan side for many years but the dipshits kept adding stuff to it. would be a 90....45 and some nipples every time i came back from days off which fatigues the fawk out of my 1400 dollar oil pan...

so....i relented to the lil quick critter....which i throw away about every 15th change or so.

 

[bobbywalter]

CATERPILLAR

Engine Models: 3126, 3176, 3304, 3306, 3406, 3406B, 3406C, 3406E, 3408, 3412, 3456 C-10, C-11, C-12, C-13, C-15, C-16, C-18

www.ezoilchangevalve.com

OPTIONAL HOSE ENDS

EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!

www.ezoilchangevalve.com

since i am such a braniac genius i naturally ordered the thread adapter so i could cap it....

and that custom thread wont take that stupid shit long and broke the valve...yup...

damn near cost an engine.... sometimes i just have to punch myself in the nads....but at least i got away with it...

so i just leave it now.

 

[bobbywalter]

Say WHUT!?... there's a countersunk rubber O-ring, just as on the OEM plug, so WHERE would any washers/shims go... that wouldn't LEAK??

they are also gasketed for clocking....though i prefer the o ring.

 

[racsan]

It probably doesn’t exist anymore but I used to use a fram product that was called “suredrain” There was the valve that replaced the drain plug, had a brass cap that went over a disc valve, to drain oil you took the 6” hose that came with the kit- it has a screw-on fitting on the one end with a wire loop inside that will push open the disc valve as you tighten the hose. Just have the other end in a container while doing so. Worked good for me, still had the messy filter to deal with but the draining of the engine was clean.

 

[4.0blue98]

Interesting... I've had a Fumoto on my daughter's '14 Crosstrek for years. I do the oil changes. Awesome valve. It also has a lock mechanism and never a drop when closed. My 98 points straight down so not an option on the Ranger.

 

[superj]

instead of the ez valve brand, there is also fumoto.

fumoto comes with a little collar that goes on the valve lever to keep it from accidentally being flipped open when driving. and, they make one with the valve body being adjustable so you can make sure the lever is facing upwards

here is a link for hte ford ranger 3.0 fumoto valve.

fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2004-ranger-3-0l-v6-vulcan

 

[19Walt93]

It's too easy to remove a drain plug for me to use a mickey mouse drain valve. It looks like something else to leak.

 

[fixizin]

It's too easy to remove a drain plug for me to use a mickey mouse drain valve. It looks like something else to leak.

Indeed it should be easy to lefty-loosey an oil drain plug (isn't the official torque spec. only 20 ft-lbs.?...), BUT... about half the time I let "the shop" change mah oil+filter, and they must use Ye Olde Air Impact Driver to tighten it 'cause I'm under there with the breaker bar and the rubber mallet and... the foul language!

Hosers OVER-torqued my Oil Drain Plug!--> CROSS-threaded by MoFos!

Yeah, the FORMERLY-great '___ ______ ' in Pimp-ano Beach, FL, which handed me my PVH hubs (they DO fall off when old), then failed to diagnose the months-later "death shimmy" may have screwed me again... had them do the oil & filter while in for new tires... and now that drain plug won't budge...

www.therangerstation.com