Hosers OVER-torqued my Oil Drain Plug!--> CROSS-threaded by MoFos!

[Josh B]

Three years is all you use the oil ?? Sounds almost like a waste of good oil

 

[Josh B]

I just caught up with this. 4200 miles is ok.
Be sure when you put that socket on there and an extension pipe on it to hold the socket straight on the plug. If you keep it all straight it will be ok, long as it's straight and the socket is right

 

[4.0blue98]

Probably intuitive, but use a 6 point socket.

 

[superj]

i just went over the difference in holding power of a 12 point versus a 6 point with my son. he was having trouble with a 12 point slipping on a bolt head so i got him a 6 point and it stayed so he learned that lesson

 

[fixizin]

Know I have a 12-point BOX-END wrench in 16mm... not sure about a 6-point version... may have to hit up classic car bro...

Three years is all you use the oil ?? Sounds almost like a waste of good oil

Lol... sarcasm noted... but it's semi-synth and I don't buy Ye Olde Wives Tales about "acids" building up as a function of time... never seen any evidence anyway... but for an already low-mileage Ranger (83k on a '99!), this Covid interregnum was the lowest/month/year usage yet... (been waiting since high school to use that $20 Latin word in a sentence... )

 

[Josh B]

I think the best place you will find to use a 12 pt wrench is in a place so tight you can barely get the wrench in there to it, and then only able to turn it 1/16th of a turn, and have to pull it up with a long skinny screwdriver to flip it over to make the same progress using the flip side

Although I do know one exception of two Snap-On 12 point ratchet wrenches I found on a railroad crossing early one morning 25 years ago.
One is 5/8 by 3/4, the other is 1/2 by 9/16 and I have used those two wrenches almost everywhere, hammered on them too and they just keep on clicking

 

[gw33gp]

Actually, the best place to use a 12 pt wrench is on a 12 pt fastener.

 

[Burnsy]

OK, so the shop I'm calling the "hosers" is where the '68 Camaro crowd USED to go, when under original ownership... today I stopped by the new trusted shop for the classic car crowd, too late in the day for them to work on it, but they said oil drain plug probably A-OK, just "stuck" from being undisturbed for SO LONG, plus COLD engine... said if it had been cross-threaded it'd be leaking... said there's certain Ford ALUMINUM oil pans that can be "hurt", but that the steel jobbies on the Rangers can't really be bunged up... said "hoser" shop is still pretty good (except on my PVH hub issue!), that they even send them some work, and they (hosers) would never take an air tool to an oil plug...

... this weekend I'll add a pipe to my breaker bar, and/or get someone withOUT a hernia to give it a tug!

Sucks having a hernia. I have two, they're nor terrible but ya can't do nothin.....takes away your balls a little bit, hate that

 

[Josh B]

Sucks having a hernia. I have two, they're nor terrible but ya can't do nothin.....takes away your balls a little bit, hate that

Bummer man :/

 

[Josh B]

Do you have any of the Ryobi cordless tools? My last set has a little 18V impact with it. I haven't tried it for any mechanical applications but it drove the heck out of the 1/4" x 5" lag bolts I used building my engine rack

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Actually, the best place to use a 12 pt wrench is on a 12 pt fastener.

Generally that is a fun little speedbump in the JY.

Stinkin driveshafts caught me all the time.

 

[19Walt93]

Know I have a 12-point BOX-END wrench in 16mm... not sure about a 6-point version... may have to hit up classic car bro...


Lol... sarcasm noted... but it's semi-synth and I don't buy Ye Olde Wives Tales about "acids" building up as a function of time... never seen any evidence anyway... but for an already low-mileage Ranger (83k on a '99!), this Covid interregnum was the lowest/month/year usage yet... (been waiting since high school to use that $20 Latin word in a sentence... )

16mm is 5/8 and you probably have one of those
The oil you're using is likely a synthetic blend, semi synthetic is like slightly pregnant or only a little bit dead.
I change my oil twice a year now that I'm driving less and would never go much longer. In hot humid weather, that nasty air is drawn in through the PCV and condenses moisture in the oil. In sub freezing weather the moisture condensation problem is even worse but I suspect you don't have to worry about that. If you drive short trip and the engine doesn't get fully warm combustion byproducts leak by the rings and pollute the oil. My Escape went 2300 miles last summer and the oil was black. Oil is cheaper than engines and "too clean" won't hurt anything.

 

[fixizin]

You're right, Synthetic BLEND is what I meant to say... if it was FULL synthetic I'd just change the filter and roll on...

In hot humid weather, that nasty air is drawn in through the PCV and condenses moisture in the oil.

Are there no design features in the PCV loop to reduce/eliminate that? And since oil and water don't mix, does it really matter if the oil is new or old, clean or dirty?

If you drive short trip and the engine doesn't get fully warm combustion byproducts leak by the rings and pollute the oil. My Escape went 2300 miles last summer and the oil was black.

Trips during Covid, though only 1 or 2 per week, were long enough to boil off all moisture in both the crankcase and the exhaust system. 2200 of the 4200 miles currently on this oil happened in the past 3 months, ALL highway, 2600 RPM in 5th gear... that's easy living for an engine, and the oil still has some clarity, but 4,000 miles is my usual interval, and FFS, 3 years just kind of "bothers" me... FoMoCo Engineers say 7,500 miles is fine, and I'm sure many Vulcans live to 250k+ miles on that "book" interval.

Oil is cheaper than engines and "too clean" won't hurt anything.

True, BUT... let's not get CRAZY, and change the oil every 200 miles or 10 days, whichever comes first!

 

[Blmpkn]

Do you have any of the Ryobi cordless tools? My last set has a little 18V impact with it. I haven't tried it for any mechanical applications but it drove the heck out of the 1/4" x 5" lag bolts I used building my engine rack

What model impact is it? Is it the basic model or is it a +HP gun? If it isn't a ONE+HP gun I wouldn't expect too much out of it for automotive stuff.

I blew mine up trying to remove fender bolts on my squarebody.. it didn't have enough mustard to break them free by itself consistently either. A bunch of them needed a ratchet to break free and then be finished with the gun.

I havnt used a +HP model, but looking at their numbers they should perform a lot better. I plan on getting one eventually.

Ryobi FINALLY has a 18v 1/2" impact now too.. real interested in that.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I just saw that Roybi impact today on the Home Depot current ad... $99