Hosers OVER-torqued my Oil Drain Plug!--> CROSS-threaded by MoFos!

[Curious Hound]

SOOOOooo... you're saying my oil drain plug wasn't over-torqued, but instead has rusted itself to the pan from the INside, due to an inch of condensed humidity, aka water in the bottom of the oil pan?... durn... guess I'll find out while everyone's glued to Duh Superbowl... and then Monday I'll have to call Acme Crate Engines...

... also, I'm a bad person!... or a Bad Ranger Owner...

It's all wild conjecture until you get it open and find out the real story. Don't take anything personal here.

 

[19Walt93]

SOOOOooo... you're saying my oil drain plug wasn't over-torqued, but instead has rusted itself to the pan from the INside, due to an inch of condensed humidity, aka water in the bottom of the oil pan?... durn... guess I'll find out while everyone's glued to Duh Superbowl... and then Monday I'll have to call Acme Crate Engines...

... also, I'm a bad person!... or a Bad Ranger Owner...

It probably just in there tight, like I said before, I have to give my own drain plugs a good solid tug to break them loose every time. I much prefer that to having the plug fall out.
Also, it isn't possible to be a bad Ranger owner unless you trade it for a Tacoma.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

It probably just in there tight, like I said before, I have to give my own drain plugs a good solid tug to break them loose every time. I much prefer that to having the plug fall out.
Also, it isn't possible to be a bad Ranger owner unless you trade it for a Tacoma.

Or a Colorado.

 

[Curious Hound]

Or an S10

Or a Ridgeline

Or...

 

[Josh B]

In effect I swapped a Chevy LUV for one

 

[oldgeek]

Ryobi FINALLY has a 18v 1/2" impact now too.. real interested in that.

I got a Ryobi One 18v 1/2" impact a few years ago. Worked good for my project. Stinks like cheap plastic though.

 

[oldgeek]

I believe the name of the YouTube channel is AVE.. mabey aVe? I don't remember..

Either way.. the guy disassembles brand new crap like power tools for dissection/inspection/see what the full story is.. and Milwaukee really isn't all its cracked up to be from the videos I've seen. Its been awhile since I've watched his channel but I do remember that they use the same exact battery cells lol.

My personal experience has been less than stellar with Milwaukee stuff too.

We had a job a few years back where we were Installing close to 200' of gutter on a concrete building that had concrete fascia. We needed to pre-drill all the holes for the hanger screws to hang the gutter, 16" on center. We had 2 beat up (basic, non HP) ryobi hammer drills and a freshly unboxed Milwaukee hammer drill....

The ryobis held tough and finished the job after the superior Milwaukee had blown up less than halfway through they didn't provide me with a good first impression.

Ryobi did though.. when I dropped one of their guns down 4 stories of staging. Damn thing bounced off literally every bit of staging it could on the way down.. wailed off the half frozen earth and flew into a concrete retaining wall.. vomiting out the battery. Still worked fine, continued to use that gun for another year or two.


Besides my Milwaukee heated jacket (which I'm rather 'meh' about)... I'll be ryobi til I die. I see no reason to buy the gucci boots when sketchers do just fine.

I have absolutely no use for this Ryobi, but I still wanted it.

Used Ryobi One HP Power Tool

shopgoodwill.com

 

[fixizin]

Follow-up/WRAP-up: Finally (4 weeks ago) took Ye Olde Trusty (Low-Miles) Ranger to my new favoritest tire store, who, as luck would have it, charge only $24.99 for (Conventional) oil+filter change IF you take it in during NON-peak hours (quite a treat in these times of High Xiden Inflation)... had a day off, took it in, they said "yeah, it was a little tight", but no biggie, no stripped threads, AND... weeks later, NO LEAKS! 24-year-old plug+rubber-ring still good... but keeping that new replacement plug in mah toolbox, just in case...

PS: they took upon themselves to put in Valvoline 5W-20, without consulting me, must be the new "book spec"... hmmm... well, I'm only gonna run it for 4,000 mi. before I go back to Valvoline Full Synth, probably 5W-30...

 

[fixizin]

Well, still only driving Ye Olde Ranger only 2,000 miles/yr, but THIS time I was determined to do my own oil change, even if I had to jack her up to get a bigger breaker bar under there... NOT necessary, wedged the 17" bar in at an angle, nudged it loose, correctly estimated the location for the catch-bucket, AND... those tire-shop hosers DID cross-thread my drain plug... and the wrench-flats look a bit rounded-off, hey 16mm is close to 5/8", what's the diff when you're a hack and a hoser, right?

... also notice the rubber O-ring is squashed flush with the flange. Replacement plug shown for comparison--had it on hand "just in case", but ended up installing EZ Valve per this thread:

EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE... a few quick questions.

RE: shims, spacers, crush-washers... I think I've got it covered... sent my trained rat into the rat's nest, and he came back with: Fel-Pro nylon Ford-V6-specific washer (Part #72515), about 0.085" thick, and from the M5OD maintenance episode, aluminum crush washers ~70 mils thick, and copper...

www.therangerstation.com

It's a nice simple Ranger, NOT an Italian exotic... so WHY do the hosers literally screw things up????

 

[nickname23]

Ok so I'm new to the whole drain plug gasket.

My wife's 4.6 V8 requires one and now we can't wait 10k mile change reliably because this gasket will fail before the complete cycle.

The slightly more expensive rubber seems to work way better than the flat plastic washer style.

I've never used a torque wrench for a drain plug, cheater pipe and gently turn until I begin to see the gasket expanding just outside the bolt.

This does the trick with oil pans that weep at the plug although I'd check it throughout the oil change cycle just to be sure.

Without the gasket you end up with the usual messy pan and even without an oil spot on the ground you WILL eventually run the vehicle 1-2 quarts low and then things like the timing chain will start asking where the oil?

Next oil change on my Ranger I'll buy one and clean up the pan real good

Lesson to take away, the gasket will fail towards the end of that cycle but they do a pretty good job if it's the rubber o-ring type that smushes.

 

[nickname23]

Well, still only driving Ye Olde Ranger only 2,000 miles/yr, but THIS time I was determined to do my own oil change, even if I had to jack her up to get a bigger breaker bar under there... NOT necessary, wedged the 17" bar in at an angle, nudged it loose, correctly estimated the location for the catch-bucket, AND... those tire-shop hosers DID cross-thread my drain plug... and the wrench-flats look a bit rounded-off, hey 16mm is close to 5/8", what's the diff when you're a hack and a hoser, right?

View attachment 123844
... also notice the rubber O-ring is squashed flush with the flange. Replacement plug shown for comparison--had it on hand "just in case", but ended up installing EZ Valve per this thread:

EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE... a few quick questions.

RE: shims, spacers, crush-washers... I think I've got it covered... sent my trained rat into the rat's nest, and he came back with: Fel-Pro nylon Ford-V6-specific washer (Part #72515), about 0.085" thick, and from the M5OD maintenance episode, aluminum crush washers ~70 mils thick, and copper...

www.therangerstation.com

It's a nice simple Ranger, NOT an Italian exotic... so WHY do the hosers literally screw things up????

It doesn't look like they tightened it enough, it should be squashed and spread towards the edge more than that to actually seal.

Like you may even see the rubber protruding slightly if it's tight enough, idk why they did that it's an oil change on a Ranger not rocket science

 

[Curious Hound]

I just whittle a stick and pound it into the hole. New stick every time, though.