Duraspark Install

[Twister]

Yes they are on the battery side.

 

[dangerranger83]

Next thing I can say is check your fuses, don't foteget about your main fuse too. But if jumping the solenoid doesn't crank over your truck (battery dirrectly to your starter) then I'm clueless.

 

[Twister]

All the fuses are good. I am going to take my starter in and get it tested.

 

[Twister]

As of now, i have the orange, purple and black plugged in from the dizzy to the dura box. the green wire coming from the coil to the dura box (used the stock coil and harness). The red/light blue wire from the 4 wire plug spliced in the the red/light blue on the 2 wire plug. Then the red wire from the coil spliced together with the light green wire from the 2 wire plug, then both spliced in to the red/light green wire on the gray rectangle plug. That's all for the duraspark stuff. I have a large single wire coming from the alt to the drives side. That is about all the wire i have plugged in.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

As of now, i have the orange, purple and black plugged in from the dizzy to the dura box. the green wire coming from the coil to the dura box (used the stock coil and harness). The red/light blue wire from the 4 wire plug spliced in the the red/light blue on the 2 wire plug. Then the red wire from the coil spliced together with the light green wire from the 2 wire plug, then both spliced in to the red/light green wire on the gray rectangle plug. That's all for the duraspark stuff. I have a large single wire coming from the alt to the drives side. That is about all the wire i have plugged in.

Are you saying the oil pressure water temp and alternator wires are not connected from the 8 wire plug. The big wire to the alternator is the charge wire blk/org , org/ltblu goes to the regulator, wht/blk on mine is not connected it gives you about 8 volts when the engine is running only. oil pressure is the wht/red and red/wht is coolant temp. You need a test light to show you whats happening with the power actually a cheap volt ohm meter is handi to have then you can test the charging system once you get it started also. If the starter worked before you did the conversion odds are it is in the wiring somewhere.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you can show us pics of the start solenoid and the ignition module sometimes a pic tells a thousand words.

 

[dangerranger83]

But take into consideration, he by passed the solenoid and still couldn't get the engine to turn over. Another thing, check your ground wire comming off your battery, could be loose and all the other ones too. Don't forget the positive one either. This samething happensd to my dads truck, turns out the positive cable was comming loose from the battery post clamp and visualy we couldn't see it, a volt meter told us when only ten volts was getting to the solenoid.

 

[Twister]

I will post some pics tomorrow.

 

[Twister]

Are you saying the oil pressure water temp and alternator wires are not connected from the 8 wire plug. The big wire to the alternator is the charge wire blk/org , org/ltblu goes to the regulator, wht/blk on mine is not connected it gives you about 8 volts when the engine is running only. oil pressure is the wht/red and red/wht is coolant temp. You need a test light to show you whats happening with the power actually a cheap volt ohm meter is handi to have then you can test the charging system once you get it started also. If the starter worked before you did the conversion odds are it is in the wiring somewhere.

Nothing is connected to the big gray connector.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do not run the engine without the alternator hooked to the regulator. hopefully you still have the harness. just take the insulation and tape off the harness back to the alternator from the 8 wire plug keep the wires I told you previously you only need to cut two or three wires from it to remove the computer part then jus connect the oil,coolant and alternator wires. You will see once you strip the harness just take your time wire fires are the worst. Get a VOM and learn how to use it if your gonna do your own stuff.

 

[Twister]

I still have the harness. It is still sitting in the engine bay, i never completely took i out. So will plugging in that solve my no power thing.

 

[Twister]

Here are some pics

 

[kimcrwbr1]

In the search bar type in duraspark and do your research. If you get rid of the computer harness and the vacuum lines you will be better off. Connect the 8 wire connector and strip the harness back to the alternator trace the wires you need all you need to cut is a couple of wires to remove the rest of the harness. Looking at the rats nest you have made no wonder you are confused. The only thing I can suggest is put it all back together color to color. If you havent got at least a test light maybe you shoud find someone to help you your obviously not listening.

 

[Twister]

I do not know what you are referring to as a rats nest, all the wires in the pictures are either other factory non computer related or ones associated with the durapsark conversion.. I understand the wiring and understand what i did for the wiring. I have followed the wire diagram on the duraspark page to the teeth. I have not had time to go out and hook up the rectangle plug with the alt wires, oil pressure and water temp. I am listening to everything you have to told me to check. I am going to go back and rewire everything to see if that solves my issue. I dont appreciate the tone of you response, if you dont have something that can contribute to the solving of my problem then dont post.

With going to school full time, and not knowing an extensive amount about cars, this has been quite a learning experience.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I hope you figure it out GL