Duraspark Install

[kimcrwbr1]

The 8 wire plug by the coil it goes to the temp sensor oil pressure and alternator leave it connected all you need to cut is the power to the computer and the neg from the dizzy and posibly the a/c wire to remove the computer harness and computer completely. along with the vacuum lines and all the controls. the only vacuum line you have to have is the one for the dizzy off the tree. the rest you can hard wire in acording to the schematic. when you cut the wires on the 8 wire plug on the engine side of the plug cut them long enough to splice unto if need be. The 2 wire plug on mine plugged righ into the module. If you would have asked us three weeks ago you would have had it running two weeka ago. Forget what you heard from any other sites we have actually done it successfully.

 

[SR185]

Actually you should post your instructions for everyone doing the conversion. We are all up for the easyer way.

It is a pdf file. I would post it if I could. I'll email it to anyone who wants it.


And Kim, the best thing I think people can do to make this conversion easier, is the advise that you give: REMOVE THE ECM AND WIRES FROM IT FIRST. I was afraid to do this and it made the job much harder than it should have been. The library instructions do not detail this either. But, once the ECM is removed, and the wiring harness from the ECM is pulled through the firewall into the engine compartment, it can be removed by cutting everything but the temp, alternator, and oil pressure wires and a/c if you have it. Once the ECM and the huge bundle of wires are gone you can see what to do more clearly.

After the ECM is removed, remove all of the COLORED vacuum lines and vacuum fitting on the passenger fender. Leave the larger black vacuum line connected to the vacuum tree (located behind the carburetor, on the intake manifold).

 

[Twister]

Well i removed all the wire, i just dont know whee to find that gray connector.

I am trying to find the plug noted in this step.

"Plug #3) Gray rectangle plug with a Red/Light Green wire. The Red/Light Green wire has power in the START & RUN position."

Is the one i posted the plug from this step?

 

[SR185]

The grey connector is on the driver's side. The wires come out of the firewall and the connector will be almost to the inner fender. It has 8 wires - one goes to the temp sender on the front of the intake manifold; one goes to the oil pressure sender; and one goes to the alternator. Do not cut these.

You will connect to the one that used to power the ecm (computer) It should be red with light green stripes. Mine was red with orange stripes.

Yes, the one in your picture looks like it. You need to plug the other end back in because it contains the wires I mentioned above.

 

[dangerranger83]

I never had to mess with the retangular gray connector nor did my dad. On 83-84 rangers, you shouldnt have to.

 

[Twister]

I never had to mess with the retangular gray connector nor did my dad. On 83-84 rangers, you shouldnt have to.

I got an 85.

 

[Twister]

The grey connector is on the driver's side. The wires come out of the firewall and the connector will be almost to the inner fender. It has 8 wires - one goes to the temp sender on the front of the intake manifold; one goes to the oil pressure sender; and one goes to the alternator. Do not cut these.

You will connect to the one that used to power the ecm (computer) It should be red with light green stripes. Mine was red with orange stripes.

Yes, the one in your picture looks like it. You need to plug the other end back in because it contains the wires I mentioned above.

So i just need to splice the green wire from the 2 prong plug into that and then splice another wire from the red/green one to the neg on my coil?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Green from the module 4 wire connector goes to the neg on the coil. and the red/ltgreen power with key on goes to the pos on the coil and the red on the module 2 wire plug.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html

The green wire from the 2 wire plug gets cut between the firewall and the connector leave the wire long enough to splice to the red/ltgreen that is power to the module and the coil pos.

 

[Twister]

Yeah i wrote that backwards.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea just take your time if you have a test light or volt meter you want battery voltage ignition on at the coil pos and module red wire. You want the start circuit to the module white wire. The three wires from the dizzy color to color black, orange, purple and the green to coil neg. All that matters is you dont wire it backwards. I think where the confusion comes in is by not removing the computer wires completely first. If you strip the harness from the 8 wire connector back to the alternator and separate the wires you will see there are only two or three wires from the main harness to the computer the power to the computer and the spark signal wire to the coil (neg) everything else stays connected. You can use both of those wires to wire in the duraspark and if need be run a separate wire from the start solenoid to the white wire on the module that retards the timing for a quick start. That is the one to the small terminal on the solenoid.

 

[dangerranger83]

I got an 85.

That's what I was saying.

But still its not that bad to wire up. Much easier and better of a setup then what came from the factory

 

[Twister]

OK, so i finished hooking everything up today, and now it wont crank. It at first would not crank using the key so we thought we would just jump the starter. We Jumped the started and it turned over, but then immediately stopped. I have lost all power to the entire car. I have all the wire hooked up per the tech write up.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

But one thing i was not sure on. I am using the stock coil, i reused the harness for the coil and just wired the green to the duraspark box and the red to the red/light green and the green wire from the 2 prong duraspark style plug from the drivers firewall. If that was wrong please let me know. I am getting frustrated with this whole thing.

 

[dangerranger83]

Should still have working lights, be able to crank, etc with all the computer wiring out. If its not cranking over with you jumping the solenoid, then I clueless other then a dead battery due to a draw in the system.

 

[Twister]

No i have lost light as well. Battery has good voltage.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you put the wires to the ignition and accessories on the wrong side of the starter solenoid The small wires with the large connectors go to the battery side of the solenoid not the starter.