• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Duraspark conversion.


I was able to pop the passenger side valve cover and verify that oil is getting up into the rockers. That made me feel a little better.
 
I was able to pop the passenger side valve cover and verify that oil is getting up into the rockers. That made me feel a little better.
I'd consider it primed and move on because everything is getting lubricated, it's just not building enough pressure cranking to register.
 
I'd consider it primed and move on because everything is getting lubricated, it's just not building enough pressure cranking to register.
That was my thought. At this point it doesn't seem like pulling the distributor to spin the oil pump was going to do much more. I have verification that oil is circulating and that's what I was after. Now, I just need to get rid of the last few gallons of old gas and I can try to start it.

A question about the 2150 carb; it has the fuel bowl vent on the top. Should that be plumbed into the air cleaner?
 
If the bowl vent is a nipple on the bowl I'd cap it and make sure the bowl vent under the air cleaner isn't blocked.
 
If the bowl vent is a nipple on the bowl I'd cap it and make sure the bowl vent under the air cleaner isn't blocked.
Sorry Walt, you lost me. My 2150 looks like this:

2150.jpg


The vent in question is circled in red. Does that need to be connected to the air cleaner?
 
That vent circled in red was originally attached to a solenoid and then it ran down to the charcoal canister.

You can leave it open and try it, and then you can plug it and try it. On some vehicles I have noticed if I plug it, it makes it a little harder to start on a hot day, but all vehicles are a little different.

You can think of that port doing the same thing as those new aggravating fuel cans they have now. Those new cans do not let any gas fumes escape from the can until you mess with the buttons and are getting ready to pour the gasoline out of the gas can.

That port is part of the "evap" system and gas fumes from the carb are routed to the charcoal canister where they are stored there, along with your gas tank fumes which are sealed, and the gas tank has it's own breather line running up the frame to the charcoal canister.

The charcoal canister stores all these fumes and then when you start your engine and conditions are right, they had another line called the "purge" line which let the engine suck these stored fumes out of the canister and into the engine to be burned.
 
Sorry Walt, you lost me. My 2150 looks like this:

View attachment 82748

The vent in question is circled in red. Does that need to be connected to the air cleaner?
The 2 vertical tubes just in front of the choke plate are vents, if you pull the top and look you'll probably find them open. If not, puncture the gasket so they are open and cap the nipple to keep dirt out.
 
That vent circled in red was originally attached to a solenoid and then it ran down to the charcoal canister.

You can leave it open and try it, and then you can plug it and try it. On some vehicles I have noticed if I plug it, it makes it a little harder to start on a hot day, but all vehicles are a little different.

You can think of that port doing the same thing as those new aggravating fuel cans they have now. Those new cans do not let any gas fumes escape from the can until you mess with the buttons and are getting ready to pour the gasoline out of the gas can.

That port is part of the "evap" system and gas fumes from the carb are routed to the charcoal canister where they are stored there, along with your gas tank fumes which are sealed, and the gas tank has it's own breather line running up the frame to the charcoal canister.

The charcoal canister stores all these fumes and then when you start your engine and conditions are right, they had another line called the "purge" line which let the engine suck these stored fumes out of the canister and into the engine to be burned.
So, what's everyone doing with the semi-hard line that runs from the gas tank to the canister? My canister is gone and the end of the semi-hard line is just sitting below the washer fluid / overflow tank.
The 2 vertical tubes just in front of the choke plate are vents, if you pull the top and look you'll probably find them open. If not, puncture the gasket so they are open and cap the nipple to keep dirt out.
The gasket was not open so I punctured it and I capped the vent nipple.
 
Are these the “vents” you capped?
 

Attachments

  • C66C3CA5-B01F-4B77-934E-A9D95EB3CBFE.jpeg
    C66C3CA5-B01F-4B77-934E-A9D95EB3CBFE.jpeg
    150.8 KB · Views: 81
  • F0923887-7FB9-4E83-AA38-F238EBA6631D.jpeg
    F0923887-7FB9-4E83-AA38-F238EBA6631D.jpeg
    92.7 KB · Views: 85
Are these the “vents” you capped?
No. Don't mess with anything inside the carb like that. You can cap that port like you did and try it.

On the hard line from the tank, I just leave it open. You will experience a gas smell once in awhile from it. I still have mine hooked to the charcoal canister, but I am sure the canister is saturated and giving off a gas smell once in awhile. I may hook a vacuum line to it one day to let it purge automatically with a small orifice in the line.
 
Are these the “vents” you capped?
No, those are the ones that were rendered inoperable by the gasket inside the carb. I punctured the gasket and capped the vent (below in the red circle).

2150.jpg
 
It seems as if the OE air filter is hard to come by (and not particularly cheap). What's everyone using for an air cleaner/filter?
 
What’s your budget?
 

Attachments

  • C2A4BE39-5503-46A1-A3B9-3E51538A5FC9.png
    C2A4BE39-5503-46A1-A3B9-3E51538A5FC9.png
    252.4 KB · Views: 84
I was using a little 9 inch chrome open element aircleaner on mine. Boy it is noisy, you would think when you floor it that little 2.8 is doing something under the hood, though your pants seat tells you different.

When it got really hot this summer I went back to the stock aircleaner with the snorkel going to the grille area and I think it helped it some. It gets awfully hot under the hood.
 
What’s your budget?
Yeah, I checked there and am not a fan of Fram. The other two only have 1 in stock (and are the same suppliers to Amazon). I'd prefer the Wix but am not a fan of paying twice the cost of the filter for shipping.
I was using a little 9 inch chrome open element air cleaner on mine. Boy it is noisy, you would think when you floor it that little 2.8 is doing something under the hood, though your pants seat tells you different.

When it got really hot this summer I went back to the stock air cleaner with the snorkel going to the grille area and I think it helped it some. It gets awfully hot under the hood.
I have the OE filter housing but am missing the snorkel & hose. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to make something.

Maybe the local AZ can get something for me. Thanks guys!
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Special Events

Events TRS Was At This Year

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Become a Supporting Member:

Or a Supporting Vendor:

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top