Driveline thoughts

[ThatOneGuy]

OK so we all know I'm working on putting the 8.8 in the 89 ranger. I'm trying to decide what to do with the driveline. So question #1 how much free play should the slip joint have forwards and back, the 8.8 is a bit longer in the bell housing than the 7.5 so with the original mocked up in place it has at most a half inch of forward compression, but plenty to slide rearward, is this enough? Question #2 this truck uses the 2 piece driveline with the carrier bearing, I've never been a huge fan of this design due to seeing them fail.plus it uses straps at the carrier bearing ujoint, another week link. Would I be better off using a one piece driveline. If so has anyone else ran one on an 89 truck, it looks like the cross member the carrier joint is mounted on could be in the way,is it?.
if the lack of forward play is acceptable than I could just shove an adaptor u joint in at the driveline to rear-end yoke, and be on the road if not and I have to pay to have driveline work done I'd rather a one peice driveline, unless it won't work.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

1-Piece Driveshafts And Why You Want One - The Ranger Station

Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger Extended cab Ford Rangers* up through the 1997 model year use a 2-piece drive shaft to connect the transmission to rear axle. In 1998, Ford replaced the … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

One-Piece Rear Driveshaft Swap ('90-'97 4WD Supercab) - The Ranger Station

Extended Cab 4×4 Rangers used a two-piece rear driveshaft through 1997. In stock form, the only problem with the 2-piece shaft is that the rubber carrier bearing bushing can fall apart and need to be replaced. No biggie. However, Lifting … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Thanks for the links for some reason I just wasn't getting good search results. Me and technology don't really get along . The posts answered the second question. But, I'm still looking for an answer the my first question. If anyone knows. Since if it will work for now without breaking anything it will give me time to find or have a driveline made.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I had my driveshaft made for my v8 swap, never had a two piece.

I have about an inch and a half of room.

 

[Josh B]

My 2 piece never been any problem
I changed out the center bearing once a few years ago but it was no big deal, never known any vibration off it

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

My 2 piece never been any problem
I changed out the center bearing once a few years ago but it was no big deal, never known any vibration off it

As designed aside from added complexity they are fine. New rangers have a two piece. They also reduce the chances of driveline damage from obstacles. But the angle gets wonky fast with lift.

 

[sgtsandman]

I’m not a fan of two piece drive shafts but they are less likely to hit something compared to a single piece. Pick your poison. I like single piece better.

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Just to complete this for others to see

 

[tw205]

Just to complete this for others to see View attachment 97930

Nice!!! So did you ever get an answer to question 1 ? Swapping and lifting has made me need to address those same issues.

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Nice!!! So did you ever get an answer to question 1 ? Swapping and lifting has made me need to address those same issues.

Nope even the guy at the driveline shop was vague. But said as long as the driveline don't slam at full compression, or fall out at full flex it'll be ok. I guess my biggest thought for you is to make sure there is still plenty of spline in contact at full flex. Probably varies with use, I figure a torqu monster like the 2.9 needs miles . This driveline ended up being compressed about a half inch more than its free resting position.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So I just went through this on my green Ranger. I had to shorten the one piece shaft for some unknown reason (everything I’ve read says you don’t have to shorten the driveshaft on the 5.0 swap the way I did it). I found (at least on mine), there was like an inch and a quarter of travel to the slip joint before the splines started coming out of the joint, and there was still like 3-4” of spline (all of the splines) still to go. I cycled my suspension a little and mimed the travel and then realized it hardly moves at all, at least on what I have with the lowered suspension and the real problem was enough travel to clear the pinion nut and threads, which is about 3/4” so if you add in a little extra clearance there, you now actually have a pretty decent bit of travel.