Need to fix driveline clunk

[Paisano]

When I installed my new rear axle assembly in 2022, I disconnected the drive shaft at the rear differential end only. When I attached it to the axle companion flange again, I didn't bother with match marking it at all because I was told it would not cause any significant out-of-balance issue. Maybe I was told this because I only disconnected one end of the drive shaft.

But I have a paint pen now, and the least I can do today is match mark the disconnection points.
I believe I just pull the drive shaft rearward off the slip yoke but I don't know for certain.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Man, when my 92 had what seemed to be driveline vibration and the carrier (center) bearing seemed a tiny bit worn, I just got a one piece shaft out of a newer Extended Cab (it’s a slip joint shaft, but eliminates the carrier bearing), and threw that in and done with new joints and after I lubed the slip joint. I had to remove the carrier bearing bracket from the crossmember and that was it. Didn’t seem to be an issue for that truck as it was, stock other than some transmission work. Some people say the crossmember has to come out but it didn’t seem to be a problem, unless maybe you lifted it a bit. I just took the route of eliminating a couple potential problems in one shot and made things better for me in one shot. That’s how I like fixing things, if I can make it better while I’m there, might as well. Hopefully have to fix it less then, lol.

 

[Josh B]

I don't have a problem with that center bearing, even tho I've tore my drive train down a dozen times. It has the 4 bolts on each end which they're all going to have, plus the two for the bearing, yep, only two. I also use an anti-seize on the bolts.

You can easy have a single shaft made, and balanced, but one mud-hole and that's all history.

Those two extra bolts just don't bother me a bit, or does having to replace it every ten or 15 years(mine actually has been a lot less than that)

It has worked fine for me just the way it was designed.

Now, if you could get a slave cylinder to do that I'd be happy to jump on that band wagon!

 

[Paisano]

Ok. I just watched a video on lubing the slip yoke splines for a 2019 Ranger. I assume it's the same procedure as mine. The guy simply disconnected the drive shaft at the rear axle and it pulled it right out of the slip yoke. I might have to go without an accordion boot altogether. The shock absorber boot I bought won't fit at one end.

I saw a heavy truck driving the other day with the drive shaft splines exposed.......no boot

I searched and searched, and it doesn't look like they make the slip yoke boot for my make/model anymore. I might have to improvise a split boot which could be put on with the drive shaft in place.

 

[Josh B]

Easier just to park it

 

[Paisano]

What do you think..............skip the boot for now and figure out something I can improvise later?
( I edited my last post with more info).

I'm crawling under the truck shortly.

 

[black_demon69]

for those looking for a new slip joint boot here is a link https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...rubber_dust_boot_1.140_id_x_1.670_id_x_4.html

this is the exact same as the OEM part (spicer manufactured it for ford)

 

[Paisano]

I don't think this is the right one. The one from your web page has 3 bellows. Mine has a 4th bellow at the narrow end of the boot.

92' Ranger XLT, 2.9 V6, electronic 4WD
single cardan 2-piece driveshaft

 

[black_demon69]

I don't think this is the right one. The one from your web page has 3 bellows. Mine has a 4th bellow at the narrow end of the boot.

92' Ranger XLT, 2.9 V6, electronic 4WD
single cardan 2-piece driveshaft

sorry should have specified that it fits a 94 ranger 2 piece drive shaft 4.0l

 

[Paisano]

No problem. I think I will have to improvise something eventually.
I have heard a few people say they drive without a rubber slip yoke boot.

 

[Paisano]

I'll have to do this another day. I need to buy new flange bolts just in case. And I need to soak the driveshaft flange bolts in PB Blaster before removing also

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I'll have to do this another day. I need to buy new flange bolts just in case. And I need to soak the driveshaft flange bolts in PB Blaster before removing also

Heat. If they’ve never been removed, Ford used yellow locktite which “requires heat” for removal. Usually my M18 impact and a 12-point socket works and I have got them with breaker bars, but yeah, they’re probably glued. You should use locktite when it goes back together, I typically clean the threads and use blue and just snug them down real good. They should be grade 10.9 bolts with a 12mm 12-point head. I forget the thread offhand, it’s a metric thread. I bought some “generic“ replacements of the right size when I ended up short on them from McMaster Carr, which turned out to be ARP bolts with a 14mm 12-point head.

 

[franklin2]

No problem. I think I will have to improvise something eventually.
I have heard a few people say they drive without a rubber slip yoke boot.

You could drive without the rubber boot if you grease it more often. The boot keeps dirt and water out, and keeps the grease in and clean.

 

[Paisano]

Yes, I have removed them before with a 12mm knurled splined socket. I picked up new Dorman part# 80992 driveshaft flange bolts. They come with dried orange threadlocker. You're correct. The bolt heads have 12 points or splines. I have a MAPP gas kit too, which got me out of a jam more than once.

I also have a powerful electric impact wrench. But where do you find 12-point impact sockets in a local store? I don't think those are an off-the-shelf item.......more of an online order thing. I'd like to to get a 12mm impact socket in 12 point

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yes, I have removed them before with a 12mm knurled splined socket. I picked up new Dorman part# 80992 driveshaft flange bolts. They come with dried orange threadlocker. You're correct. The bolt heads have 12 points or splines. I have a MAPP gas kit too, which got me out of a jam more than once.

I also have a powerful electric impact wrench. But where do you find 12-point impact sockets in a local store? I don't think those are an off-the-shelf item.......more of an online order thing. I'd like to to get a 12mm impact socket in 12 point

Yeah, I was placing a hardware order and just threw it on rather than trying to source replacement bolts, lol. And I buy blue locktite in the big bottles, lol. And I have propane, Mapp, oxy/propane and oxy/acetylene torches. But I probably class as an “advanced user” at this point, lol

I have two options for my impact. I ordered a tool thing from Autozone which is actually a 12mm 12pt attached with a swivel joint to a like 4” extension. OEM brand. My 1,400 ft/lb impact beat the snot out of it to the point it kinda fell apart so I have to warranty it. In fairness, it did take apart a number of driveshafts and I can still put the pieces together and use it. My other option that I use is a 12mm 12pt impact socket I bought online (want to say maybe Sunnex brand) and a wobble impact extension. I didn’t check everywhere around home, but single impact sockets seem to be a rarity.