<< D'OH!(update) OK, but which SUB-version Vgate Vlinker version to get?


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fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota

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>> Skip down to new post(s)... thanks.


WiFi? Bluetooth? USB-cable? MC+ super-pro?

Thanks in advance... #LostInToyland
 
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I got the ones recommended by Forscan. The direct wire connect seems to be a little bit quicker, but you do have the inconvenience of the cable being in the way and having to move the switch back and forth as prompted by Forscan.

The bluetooth unit works fine, just a little slower. I've not had a problem with either adapter though.
 
I bought the recommended USB version because if you’re messing around with PATS or anything else important they highly recommend a wired connection because a dropped connection in the middle of the process could brick the ECU
 
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Like with all things... buy once cry once.

At that time... those two units were the only interfaces that were recommended by ForScan... right from their website.

I wasn't going to argue... Just paid the price. Which has went up 20-25% since I bought them.
 
When i bought mine like 6 years ago almost to the day... these were recommended by ForScan.


Is this the one? Sometimes Amazon plays tricks on me with links from the states and tries to foist some more expensive crap on me.

<< D'OH!(update)  OK, but which SUB-version Vgate Vlinker version to get?
 
The non Bluetooth ones are $30-35 for the good ones.

Just need to be able to connect your laptop to it with the usb cable.
 
Also, Forescan recommends only using the cable version for making changes. If the wireless connection gets broken during a parameter change you can brick the model.

Wireless models are only recommended for diagnostic purposes. They are good because the laptop can be outside the cabin next to where you are working.
 
I also went with the recommended vgate vLinker from forscan. Worked first time no problem.
 
PROBLEM-o!... the version @SenorNoob got with the AUTO switching of HS-CAN / MS-CAN switch is actually the OLDer 2021 version:

... whereas the version @sgtsandman got with the MANUAL switch is the NEWER 2023 version... WTAF? Gotta be a reason they dropped the auto-detect going forward?

And good luck telling them apart visually!... do YOU see the "toggle" switch, 'cause I sure don't!

Granted, I'm mostly dealing with my '99 Ranger so they're both probably way beyond what's needed for that, but I drive/have access to 2024+ Fords at work, and might want to "look around" or be a jerk and disable the Eco-turbo, lol... also might get a Coyote 5.0 era Mustang... if I could ever find one with a manual... oh, the irony. 🤦‍♂️
 
WTAF? Gotta be a reason they dropped the auto-detect going forward?
WTAF? indeed.

I'd try to contact them and ask why.
 
Fook Mi... further research shows the older AUTO-switch is the way to go BECAUSE... ELM327-compatible...

ALSO (strangely), the older AUTO-switch version comes with a 2-YEAR warranty, newer Manual switcher, only 1-YEAR warranty...

I swear I'm hearing Twilight Zone theme music... and the stereo is OFF. :icon_twisted:
 
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