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Do y'all's trucks ride rough?


The undercarriage of an 04 Ranger driven in NH wouldn't have looked that clean by the spring of 05. Are those rear spring blocks factory? I don't remember seeing them under a Ranger before but I wasn't specifically looking for them either. My 04 and 11 Supercab 4x4's didn't have them.
It looks factory. My 93 splash has them. My 88 F150 had them. I've seen them on Fords in the junknyard.
 
The blocks are factory and period correct. 2008 on, they went with a shorter block for mpg purposes. Or at least that was the argument.
 
i am going to put the front to the higher side of whats allowable so its not got so much rake. its either that or take those lift blocks with the arms out of the back

These trucks normally have a good amount of rake. So, do not base the correct ride height on if the truck looks level or not.
 
as far as i know, which is only as far as my arm reaches, its factory. one of the others mentioned up higher in the thread that they came on the 4x4 and edge models.

this probably looks really good because it seems to have been a san Antonio or central texas truck its whole life. i live 1/3 - 1/2 mile from the ocean so it will start getting surface rust in a short time because even though i don't go to the beach, i am close enough that the breeze carries the salt to my house. the undersides hardly rust though, normally the sun roof panels completely rust off cars and the area right above the windshield rusts out and give people sun roofs, ha ha ha
 
man, yall type quick. you guys answered while i was typing
 
It looks factory. My 93 splash has them. My 88 F150 had them. I've seen them on Fords in the junknyard.
I've seen them on a bunch of F series but haven't noticed them on Rangers. Most of the Rangers we sold were supercabs, maybe the Splash, being a regular cab was different. Random fact, the woman who traded an MG Midget for our first 2 door Escort traded it for a 4x4, 3.0, 5 speed Splash that she still drives. The paint and interior look almost new, the underside is solid but nasty from yearly oil undercoating.
 
One thing to note: When Ford originally installed the torsion bar bolts, they were coating in Ford's "Loctite" Yellow, so they never undid themselves.

If previous owner moved them, the "lock" will be broken, and they will tend to back themselves out over time, especially if truck is driven...spirited.

Once you get them to a spot you like, you should back them out a precise number of turns, re-apply Loctite and turn them in the number of turns you backed them out.

Significant other was not impressed when truck was "leaning" to her side. :ROFLMAO:
 
If you need to apply thread lock the adjustment bolts, use blue or yellow. Red is for parts you never plan to take off again and if you do need to remove them, a fire wrench may be required. There is also green but I forget what the application is for that.
 
If you need to apply thread lock the adjustment bolts, use blue or yellow. Red is for parts you never plan to take off again and if you do need to remove them, a fire wrench may be required. There is also green but I forget what the application is for that.

Green will not likely come off without heat. Next best thing to welding lol.
 
i used the red on lug studs when i changed my old bmw from bolts to studs. than when we had to do some other work, they were not fun to get out again
 
If you need to apply thread lock the adjustment bolts, use blue or yellow. Red is for parts you never plan to take off again and if you do need to remove them, a fire wrench may be required. There is also green but I forget what the application is for that.
Green is to lock round parts together. Like a sleeve on a shaft. Requires very close tolerance between the parts. It's more difficult to remove than red.
 

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