Distributor option

[85_Ranger4x4]

Factory choke doesn't want 12v, it gets like 7v or something weird.

I cursed my 2.8's coldbloodedness for years after I had swapped it out until I snagged an EVTM and realized a lot of its problems was the PO was giving the choke 12v and it was likely pulling off too fast.

I have read that there can be a second white wire coming off the alternator you can use for the choke but by then I had an Edelbrock carb whose choke wanted 12v so for me it kinda worked out on its own.

So you may want to verify which your carb needs.

 

[franklin2]

Ford had two kinds of chokes. The fully electric choke which was 12v, and the electric choke assist which was about 7v and came from the alternator. Someone said you can tell a Ford 12v choke by the connector, I think it is a stud on the black choke housing. The choke assist units had the slip on spade connector.

What do the China units come with I am not sure. The china units do come with the pipe connections for the hot air, which is how the electric choke assist works. With the choke assist unit, the electric does not even work till the choke area gets very hot. There is a bi-metal switch inside the choke. The electric choke assist unit comes on when it's hot under the hood, and the electric assists or "helps" the choke pull off faster for better emissions. With the choke assist setup, the hot air tube is the main factor in making the choke work.

The full 12v choke units are that, full 12v with no hot air plumbing. My BII with the 2.8 originally had a full 12v choke, it was fed by a relay that was controlled by the computer. I suppose the computer looked at the engine temp, and decided whether to activate the relay or not. And it also controlled the idle, normal and fast with the DC idle control motor.

One thing I had to modify when I took out the computer, but kept the computer carb for awhile. The fast idle cam on the computer carb only had one step on it, the very fastest idle. When it came off of that step it would stall since it would drop to a regular idle. I took a file and cut another step in the cam to help it out without the computer being there.

 

[ISX_15]

Ford had two kinds of chokes. The fully electric choke which was 12v, and the electric choke assist which was about 7v and came from the alternator. Someone said you can tell a Ford 12v choke by the connector, I think it is a stud on the black choke housing. The choke assist units had the slip on spade connector.

What do the China units come with I am not sure. The china units do come with the pipe connections for the hot air, which is how the electric choke assist works. With the choke assist unit, the electric does not even work till the choke area gets very hot. There is a bi-metal switch inside the choke. The electric choke assist unit comes on when it's hot under the hood, and the electric assists or "helps" the choke pull off faster for better emissions. With the choke assist setup, the hot air tube is the main factor in making the choke work.

The full 12v choke units are that, full 12v with no hot air plumbing. My BII with the 2.8 originally had a full 12v choke, it was fed by a relay that was controlled by the computer. I suppose the computer looked at the engine temp, and decided whether to activate the relay or not. And it also controlled the idle, normal and fast with the DC idle control motor.

One thing I had to modify when I took out the computer, but kept the computer carb for awhile. The fast idle cam on the computer carb only had one step on it, the very fastest idle. When it came off of that step it would stall since it would drop to a regular idle. I took a file and cut another step in the cam to help it out without the computer being there.

Considering its a china carb i hope its 12v operated with the vaacuum just being there as a option. If not where does this choke assist pull air from? Im reading it gets it from exhaust gas and as engine warms so does that element. Or the intake?

 

[ISX_15]

Considering its a china carb i hope its 12v operated with the vaacuum just being there as a option. If not where does this choke assist pull air from? Im reading it gets it from exhaust gas and as engine warms so does that element. Or the intake?

For context im doing a powerspark swap.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It would pull air from the crossover tube integral to the intake manifold. The crossover tube connected the two sides of the exhaust thru the manifold to heat under the carb. This helped in winter. Not so great in a hot summer. There is/was a connection, usually on the passenger side of the carb and close to the carb. A tube approx 3/8" diameter connected the 2.
On some old engines the coiled bimetallic spring was in the manifold and operated a linkage to the choke flapper thingy. Doesn't concern your use case, just some info...

 

[ISX_15]

It would pull air from the crossover tube integral to the intake manifold. The crossover tube connected the two sides of the exhaust thru the manifold to heat under the carb. This helped in winter. Not so great in a hot summer. There is/was a connection, usually on the passenger side of the carb and close to the carb. A tube approx 3/8" diameter connected the 2.
On some old engines the coiled bimetallic spring was in the manifold and operated a linkage to the choke flapper thingy. Doesn't concern your use case, just some info...

Ill just block it for now and pray the 12v will work. Either way im in arizona so never gets too cold but i still plan on taking this truck on roadtrips where it does get cold. Do you know where i can find those parts if needed? Or should i just find a fully electric choke?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

In my limited knowledge I would find out what type you have and if necessary convert it to the full 12V style. Cap it for now and see how it works. If you decide to take a trip and the choke won't keep it running you can just use your foot for a few minutes. Also, before automatic chokes there were cable operated chokes. You can probably find a universal manual choke on eBay or the like for under $20.

 

[ISX_15]

In my limited knowledge I would find out what type you have and if necessary convert it to the full 12V style. Cap it for now and see how it works. If you decide to take a trip and the choke won't keep it running you can just use your foot for a few minutes. Also, before automatic chokes there were cable operated chokes. You can probably find a universal manual choke on eBay or the like for under $20.

Ya i kinda figure, thats the plan if it gives me issues ill swap it with a fully electric one. So far though i think i got this in the bag. Just need to drop in distro and set timing bla bla bla and it should be running. Mind you i am NOT a mechanic, expecially on oldschools, just did a few searches on basic distro ignition to get the idea. Maybe later on i could do a efi swap but this engine is just gonna be for spinning alternators