Did you lift your 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4x4?

[clarkbre]

Since my Jan. 2nd post, the project has taken a slightly different route on wheels and tires. Sometimes I think things just happen for a reason. With the planned black steel "D" window wheels, I was a bit concerned about adding 9 lbs of rotational mass on each corner, the truck driving worse than stock and I didn't really want the "blacked out" look. They sold in a day and I was satisfied saving for new 31's and using the stock 15x7 wheels.

Cruising Facebook Marketplace, I found a great deal on a slightly used set of wheels and tires in the exact size needed:
Wheels: American Racing AR23 machined w/ clear coat fisnish 15x8, -19mm offset, 3.75" backspacing
Tires: Pro Comp Xtreme MT 2 31x10.50R15

They fit great and still have plenty of room for no rubbing. I love the new look of the Ranger!

 

[MaicoDoug]

Yep 31's are about all we can fit up in there.

How did you level the front end?

Those machined aluminum wheels look great. Ford always had some very nice looking factory options wheels, and dang if those don't look exactly like it. Small touches make the suddle difference....and make a big difference to us types. Hope you can get her in the mud soon and then toss a picture our way.

I totally rebuilt my front end just before raising the front up 1.75" with a coil over mod. It was easy to R&R all the front suspension, no special tools required. I sold off the T bars to someone here for the cost of shipping.
-Doug

 

[clarkbre]

Yep 31's are about all we can fit up in there.

How did you level the front end?.....

......-Doug

Looking at all the clearances with the wider wheels, there is definitely room for 32x11.5's without rubbing issue. I'm still going to keep with the 31's for general driving.

The front on mine is leveled just by adjusting the stock torsion bolts/keys. They took 3 full turns on each side to bring the front up about 1.5". It isn't maxed out and there is still upward adjustment if needed/wanted. With corrected tire pressure on all 4 corners, the fender arches all sit perfectly at 36" off the ground. Couldn't get more level than that! To compensate for the raised front end, Rancho RS5000X extended length shocks were installed. Part #RS55374.

With the current setup, the truck rides great! Not being maxed out and with the longer shocks, there is still downward travel available in the front suspension.

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

Maybe I should toss my two cents of experience in here.

I just cranked my torsion bars, as I have a pre-2008 ranger. Why? A couple reasons. A- I wanted the truck to not be as canted forward, B- I am lazy and don’t have the time to install a proper lift, C- I am cheap and don’t want to spend the money on a proper lift, and D- I wanted to fit bigger tires.

The keys aren’t quite maxed out, but close. I can now comfortably fit 265/75R16 tires, which are basically 32”.

Someday, if I have the time and money, I’ll buy the superlift or rough country kit. Someday.

 

[ShawnB]

I'm curious how many of you 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 owners lifted your Ranger, and whether you:

• Bought the Superlift kit
• Cranked the torsion bars
• Bought torsion keys (and cranked those)
• Just used a body Lift
• Did a Superlift & body lift
• Did a torsion bar crank and body lift

And if you don't mind, click on the poll, but also post why you did or didn't go a specific route.

Thanks

2006 Ford Ranger FX4
Torch 3in lift kit, which has the shackles in the back, and the bigger torsion keys. Haven't installed yet, I read I need to change the axle going from the diff to the front transfer case, or it will break. There is a cup like coupling instead of the standard splined slip yoke, which you can buy in a replacement kit.

I bought the lift kit cuz I wasn't sure if I would be able to fit a set of P255/??R17s with bigger rims on but they fit, I just need some wheel spacers for the new wheels; they are sitting a little too close to the upper control arm for my comfort, and a think a 1 inch spacer will put the wheels closer to where the factory wheels were (right now their a bit too inside the hub).

 

[JoshT]

2006 Ford Ranger FX4
Torch 3in lift kit, which has the shackles in the back, and the bigger torsion keys. Haven't installed yet, I read I need to change the axle going from the diff to the front transfer case, or it will break. There is a cup like coupling instead of the standard splined slip yoke, which you can buy in a replacement kit.

Changing driveshaft is not necessary for a torsion key lift. Driveshaft change is needed for lifts like Rough country and Superlift where the differential is lowered. With a torsion bar lift the differential stays in the stock location.

Can you post a link to where you found that information, I'd like to read it and try to make sense of exactly what they were trying to say.

While Torch claims 3" of lift with "without compromising ride quality", be aware that that may not be true for your vehicle. Adjusting the torsion keys up increases the preload on the torsion bar, and that will have an effect on ride quality. You'll also be pushing shocks closer to their limit of travel which can have an effect.

 

[ShawnB]

Changing driveshaft is not necessary for a torsion key lift. Driveshaft change is needed for lifts like Rough country and Superlift where the differential is lowered. With a torsion bar lift the differential stays in the stock location.

Can you post a link to where you found that information, I'd like to read it and try to make sense of exactly what they were trying to say.

While Torch claims 3" of lift with "without compromising ride quality", be aware that that may not be true for your vehicle. Adjusting the torsion keys up increases the preload on the torsion bar, and that will have an effect on ride quality. You'll also be pushing shocks closer to their limit of travel which can have an effect.

Thanks for the response!! Good to know!
I'll have to look at my history, it was in one of those fevered 100 tabs open looking for something that I read it, but it was probably in reference to a much bigger lift also, that's all mashing together in my brain.

 

[Jandro2004FX4]

I bought 33” P75R16 BFG K02s, cranked the torsion on my ‘04 FX4, but ran into rubbing issues and then had to put in a ~6” Superlift, plus an Add-a-Leaf and new block on the rear to level it out. It does great off road, still has most of it’s torque.

 

[scrapper]

First thing I did was buy a lift kit for a ford f150 for 25. It was new so I figured cant go wrong. Only other thing I needed was the shifter extension, bought it used on here. I made the extension for the steering column. Next I bought the suspension lift used. It was a rough country 6". Then I got brake lines and shocks from rough country scratch and dent on ebay. I did it that way because I am poor. Pieced it together for a couple hundred bucks. Works great. Im trying to put a dana 30 on the front now. Its only 2x4. Health problems keep my away but I will get back to it. If I were rich I would have used better stuff and new. It is only for hunting and fishing dd now.

 

[MaicoDoug]

I did it, put 33s on. With a 2 inch coilover front mod, the prior 32s did well. Try to find any in my favorite brand, NOT. So here it is. 33 x 12.5 x R15 just touching CCW and CW barely (1/4") sway bar rub. Can't even feel it. I'm still intimidated however. Need to look into longer rear shocks and then either new leaf springs or just a 1 inch block for the rear. When I'm on the trail, I'm loaded. That is the truck.

 

[MaicoDoug]

I ordered some longer rear shocks. Went with the correct length Rancho RS55126. I have some 7/8" aluminum plate that will act as a lift block for the rear end. Waiting to see what the locating pin size is. Either 9/16" or 5/8ths inch, then drill & press in a pin. For the front to keep the whole rig level, I'll need to relocate the upper coilover mounting point 3/4" - 1 inch further down in the shock tower. Been using grade 8 x 1/2" hardware. I can keep one of the two holes currently under use & simply drill the new second one. Will be easy, only have to remove the wheel, unbolt the upper shock, lay it over in the upper A arm & get to it. Then back to the alignment shop. After the T storms pass later this week, I'll park the Challenger outside. A garage shop is better than none. All because I had to have 33s.