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dangerranger1983 build


I don't want to flood the engine with water and mud plus I have things mounted to them.

I was told to use a Ford duraspark module with the dizzy as an option too.
 
I've heard the dura spark is reliable as all hell.


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Went out today to start it and got the nice "I'm not going to crank/give power to anything" from it again. Last time I cleaned all the connections and what not and it was fine but I'm suspecting that I have a battery going out on me or a bad ground/positive, the winter neglect on it probably didn't help anything. Fired right up when I replaced the module to pull into the garage but now....no God forbid you try and start, hit the starter, game over (end of that rant).

I'm also going to have to look into if my screen is suppose to stay on and go into sleep mode after I shut my truck off or if it is suppose to completely turn off and be unresponsive. I have the wire hooked to a key on/off power (like a relay wire to turn everything on) like the instructions say to do.

I really want to try and keep this a one wire setup for the efi, also try and go to a one wire 3g alternator, be nice to go with an explorer FEAD.

Also when the truck is driving, you can hear the air going past the butterfly valves in the throttle body, nice having all four open at once. As for getting better mileage, forget that, I drive this truck like I stole it, now it has even more ass and I can only imaging what the torque monster headers and better exhaust system will do. I still need to get a spacer for my air filter housing so that I can mount it again.
 
Also when the truck is driving, you can hear the air going past the butterfly valves in the throttle body, nice having all four open at once.

Probably more because you don't have an air filter than anything.

If anything a carb with the secondaries closed would make more noise as the engine sucks the same amount of air through half the area.

A GM TBI makes no more air noise than anything else.
 
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Guess I'm after a new positive battery cable clamp, truck wont start or even crank but yet I have 12.4v at the battery post, however when I touch the clamp to test it goes down to 9.6v-10.4v which means it corroded between the two which I just cleaned not to long ago. The negative side is fine, tests the same both post and clamp. I'm going to invest into the brass clamps, told they are nice.

I need to see if I still have my carb spacer laying around.
 
Replaced the battery cable and she's golden again. Made a video showing all the dashboard outputs on the efi. I have a small.fuel leak where I spliced into the tank, no biggy there just have to do the hose clamps better. Well after the video I got out of my truck, shut the door and the glass fell out of my mirror and shattered when it hit the ground. Can't I ever get ahead?

https://youtu.be/CqC_g4SUljI
 
Has a fuel leak where the barb goes into the couplers, was worth a shot but guess I'll have to spend the $50 for the one from morroso. Other then that truck runs good, has a small pop out of the intake when you surprise it with a quick hit of the throttle when at an idle once in awhile, has a 13.6 AFR at idle that I may lean out to see if that helps. I can adjust the AFR at idle 13.6, 3k 14.0 and 6k 14.4 rpm for idle, crusing and WOT (all are the same at this time).
 
i have yet to comment on your post, but ive been watching. i have to say when it first started i thought this might be another rag-tag build... but im impressed. I LIKE IT!
 
Well did a slight change in AFR on my idle from 13.6 to 13.8 and seems to like it. Still have the pop through the intake but I think that's a timing thing and an easy fix, only happens off idle when you hammer the gas. Also ordered a filler neck return line, my homemade one leaks and nothing I can do.
 
I sold off my s10, out of nowhere the trans started having issues and in 4 hours it was sold and trailered out, wasn't going to deal with that shit. Going this weekend to pick up a 94 with a 2.3 and manual trans for $600.
 
Nice!


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