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dangerranger1983 build


Thank you.

Thursday its my last day off when before shut down till the 8th of July so hopefully I will be able to get my 4wd done in that time, weather, time, etc... permitting.

And also from the looks of it so far, going too the badlands off-road park this weekend with a bunch of guys as volunteers to help with parking vehicles, etc... for a monster truck thing going on. We get in for free along with free food and whatnot. Only reason why is because the other group of ppl that normal do it backed out last second.

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And also from the looks of it so far, going too the badlands off-road park this weekend with a bunch of guys as volunteers to help with parking vehicles, etc... for a monster truck thing going on. We get in for free along with free food and whatnot.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Be sure to get lots of pictures....




Robert




posted with a bottle and a letter opener, rooted with blackberry Ice Cream.
 
Cool. Have fun and share pictures with us.

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Hopefully go now, depends on if the fiancee and I go to her gmas in Illinois with her parents the the weekend.

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Hey bud have you heard of a wristed radius arm? I'm gonna extend my radius arms, put heims on them and make the right side wristed.
View attachment 10868
 
My "cousin" out east did a d44 SAS to his ranger and is doing a wrist setup IIRC. I'm going to have bump his thread.

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Thank you. All stock jeep steering so that finding and getting parts well be easy until I can afford to do DOM tubing that I'm sure I will have a hard time breaking. Nothing like being miles away from home and a custom made price breaks and you are fawked.

New I do have a question on my cooling system.

My cooling fan runs all the time. It's not having a hard time cooing of my engine, gets the rad fluid cooled off within 15-20 seconds, if not sooner, once it enters the rad. But after the fluid is cooled off the fan is still on because the switch for it is right in front of the t-stat in the upper rad neck on the intake manifold in the hot fluid that it's in the hose that didn't make it into the rad. I know the fluid isn't continually flowing because the rad has the hot/cold cycles from the fluid stopping/going through properly.

Is it okay if my fan its running all the time because of this or its it not good on the electric system fur it Rio be turning on/off all the time, or do I need to get a cooler t-stat, 185? Do I need to move my fan switch? My fan switch is activated when my fluid reaches 195 degrees.

I know the term "if it isn't broke don't fix it" but I know on vehicles that are electric fan cooled, their fans don't run all the time.

But to add another thing, my cooling fan shroud doesn't fit my entire rad either, top to bottom wise, I have it fitted so it fits side to side. My lower rad fluid only gets cooled by air that moves through it when driving. Should I either move my setup down, or off I'm able to, rotate my fan and lower it so that it cools the bottom part of my rad closest to the lower rad hose before the fluid goes back into the engine?

I will try and get pictures of how everything is now.

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Well, it looks like I need to get in to finding me a fan and study up on these wiring diagrams, since I'm now in the same boat as you are, i finally have the 302 in my ranger.




Robert




sent with a rooted heat gun running apple 1.3
 
Got a build thread you can link me to, I want to watch it, if you have one going that is?

That writing couldn't be any simpler and that's the good part.

One guy running that setup is running a 170 degree tstat which does tell me I need to be running a cooler one to keep the fluid flowing more often since it only takes 15-20 seconds at best for the fan to cool the fluid is able to cool off on the low setting.

I'm the winter time it takes about 2-3 miles of driving to start to get heat in my truck. Doesn't bother me to much really because sooner or later I have a steady heat source that doesn't cool off and stay that way like my 2.8 did unless you kept a piece of card board in front of the rad.

Working this Saturday, mandatory to come in, won't be able to get anything done. Heard that's going to be an every other weekend thing.

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Need opinions. Have a front driveshaft out of an f150 with 1330 joints on both ends. The front diff is where things may get iffy. Going to be running a 1310-1330 conversion joint and that will be fine but here's the new clearance I will have with the 1330 joint next to my long arm for my d30. Think I should just play it safe and get a shaft that has 1310 joints at both ends and just run my conversion ujoint at the tcase or is there a 1310 slip joint that will slide into my current f150 shaft?

You can see that the 1310 use to touch the long arm jam nut but not anymore, my trackbar use to move alot allowing my axle to move aside to side (axle still does slightly because my trackbar mount flexes but we'll fix that soon too).

20130801_123306.jpg


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Went to the JY and got another shaft. From the writing its out of a 1974 jeep Waggoner. Good thing is, the slip joint has a grease fitting.

20130810_105141.jpg


Now I also saw this when I was there. A PTO drive that hooks to a GM transmission of some kind. I severly doubt that it will fit my trans though but it does rotate when the trans does and the lever works too plus the what has no play in it. I wanna say that this trans came out of a tow truck.

20130810_093708.jpg



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Those where also used in dump trucks, just don't forget to disengage in when driving down the road, I have seen quite a few that got blown apart because the driver forgot to disengage it.



Robert



sent with a American Flag, and a silver dollar coin.
 
If it were fir my transmission, it would have come out with me.

My friend I took also saw his old car there from two years ago, was an emotional moment for him.

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