dangerranger1983 build

[dangerranger83]

Buddy has a cousin selling this for 750 and may get it next weekend. Only that cheap due to they are moving in two weeks and need the money but also have a third child on the way. 1997 thunder bird with the 4.6, auto and 188xxx miles. Only rust spot it has its above the driverside wheel well. Had a slight coolant leak but looked it up and these are prone to that around the intake. Other then that, anything else about these cars that I should worry about?

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[dangerranger83]

I need to figure out what is going on with my carb. It hesitates, stubbles, etc...when I get on it like the secondarys aren't opening up properly. I just replaced both fuel filters, air filter, been spraying the carb with cleaner but haven't run anything through it yet but will run sine seafoam through it and the intake.

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[escort_gts]

To me it seemed like timeing was off when I rode with you.

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[dangerranger83]

I checked the timing two weeks ago and it was spot on.

That day my cooling fan blew a fuse and I was driving all day with an engine running hot.

I did rotate my fan a week ago but it's not sealed all the way around do I need to get that fixed. I may be running hot but even when driving down the highway, getting to 60mph seems like a struggle now, have to almost max out it in third but once in 4th it's struggling to maintain.

Hopefully get this car this weekend and get it plated, insured etc... and be able to work on the truck. Need to get it new plus, wires, etc...

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[Robert_1967]

have you checked and made sure you haven't burned a valve or something???

sounds to me your losing compression or something, not a carb problem, unless there is a piece of tape covering the part of the intake.

My Ranger when it had the 4 banger in it had a hard problem pulling, and getting up to speed, and it was losing compression from bad rings and bad valves.



Robert




sent with a picture of Beth Hanes and a watermelon.

 

[dangerranger83]

My back fire that I still have came out of the blue one day and only happens when I hold the skinny pedal down so far so im thinking I have an intake gasket leak going on. When I start the truck up doing a cold start, I can hear a low tone whistle that goes away after a few minutes of running so I need to get some carb spray and test but first need to replace my plug weird side a few are arcing to the headers (that might be the problem).

I did let the engine warm up a little then got on it and it didn't want to surge, jerk, or hesitate but when the engine is warmed up all the way, I think it's getting to hot and causing some problems. I need to get it to suck in cooler outside air, right now I'm still sucking in the hot engine compartment air.

To-do list

Plug wires
Plugs
Test for intake gasket leak
Get front driveshaft shortened
Finish trans xmember
Get over flow for rad done
Seal around the cooling fan better
Temp gauge installed

Not in that order though but need to get it all done at once but hopefully be able todo this soon if I get the car this weekend, hoping it's not going to need to much.

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[dangerranger83]

Bought the car. Intake has a coolant leak around a bolt and needs rear tire, one has a leak in the side wall. Body needs some TCL and interior needs shampooing but doesn't smell. Other then that runs and drives smooth. Was told that it has had an intake change to a better one, not sure on that yet.

The coolant leak.

Body rust

Plus on a 40 mile drive from where it was, only used an 1/8 of a tank of fuel, highway most of that.


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[dangerranger83]

Bad news....

when I dropped it off at my parents, the new neighbor tboned my buddies vehicle while my buddy was parked out front and the neighbor was backing out his driveway. For and wheel well got damaged.

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[036speed]

I would rock that bird! Nice buy.

 

[dangerranger83]

Just got insurance but plates will have to wait till tomorrow. Plus I need to find out what my tire size is, going to replace the rear tires for now.

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[dangerranger83]

Got the plates for her, at least the paper one.

Also just saw the underbody and it is almost flawless!!! Looks and feels like it has had rino lino lining done to it.

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[dangerranger83]

So after a year I decided to pull a couple of plugs and see what they look like. Pulled number one and was surprised that it wasn't black because of my 8mpg I'm getting, kinda looks as if I'm running lean. Also looks like I have a valve letting a little oil pat is glide or exhaust isn't exiting good, need to mark the plug and screw it in to see.

But when I pulled number 4, I got kinda worried as it is nasty and wet but not clean like it's burning coolant. Last time it was driven was during a raining day and maybe a valve stayed open plus the two fluctuations going on?? But not black like expected either.

Going to run the engine to temp, let it cool and pull them one by one and check from there.

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[dangerranger83]

Buddy at work says he has a bunch of 5.0 parts from over the years of owning foxbody mustang and says that he will give me what has and can get from other people he knows so that I can hopefully convert over to FI.

The computer he has belongs to an 87 speed density setup but was a manual and that works for me long with the fuel rail, stock 19lb injectors, etc...

Big question is, difference between speed density and MAF other then MAF is more adjustable. He said he couldn't tell a power difference between them in stock form.

He currently has a 91, all stock other then the PO of the car did some exhaust work, but he bought for 5k and it just rolled over to 58,000 miles.

I'm going for stock power and better fuel mileage, my 200hp is good enough for me.

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[Psychopete]

depends on your vacuum signal. MAP sensor reads engine vacuum, where MAF reads air flow instead. MAF systems are more adaptable to changes in engine characterists because of that. that's what I did with my 2.9 because I ran a fairly aggressive camshaft. either way, you'll be a lot happier with a FI setup.

it should be a "no-brainer" for you to convert that over to MAF, piece of cake. hardest part is scavenging the MAF pig-tail from another mainharness (not sure if you can buy them, but it'll have the ECC pins you can pop in and no splices in the signal wiring that might be problematic down the road - you will have to splice + & -), and it'd be a good idea to convert the harness over before you install it if you want to rebuild it with the added MAF wiring to keep things clean.

engine still running good for you?

 

[dangerranger83]

Engine is running like a charm, not using any fluids, dripping (okay a slow oil drip but not enough to worry about) etc...

I can get a MAF conversion/add on wiring harness for $50 from painless wiring.

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