Crawlin's Build Thread

[JeepRecoveryTeam]

let me know if you need any help with the build man ive been there and done it to my truck

 

[crawlin91]

you might need to buy some tools for the install also.

- You will need a 1-1/8" wrench for the lower coil spring nut, the radius arm to beam bolts, and the rear radius arm nuts.

- You will need a pitman arm pulled. Most auto parts stores loan a tool program loans these out.

- You will need a tie rod seperator. Again, you can probably rent this from a parts house.

- You will need an angle grinder with grind/cut off wheels for the passenger side beam and radius arm bracket rivets. Get a couple cut off wheels as you will use atleast 2.

got an angle grinder and Ive actually done all the radius arm rivets and replaced them already. just need to hit the four on the side beam. also got the 1 1/8 wrench

picked up a pitman arm puller and ball joint press on loan from autozone "vatozone"

ive got a ball joint/pitman arm seperator (the fork thing) will that work on the tie rod ends?? Ive never even touched the steering before.

 

[mjonesjr]

This is the tie rod separator:

Once you get the nut off the tie rod end, drive this between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end.

 

[crawlin91]

yea thats what I got. Been reading up on a little bit on steering from other posts. might not even need it.

 

[84projectFORD]

the pickle forks work great unless your trying to save the tie rods them selves, it pretty much runis the boot on them and might pull the ball out fo the cup if they are worn enough. do not use that to seperate your pitman are from the steering box, it can destroy it! dumb ass at my dealer did that to my chevy and they blamed it on me! till i asked how they removed it and the tech showed me how he did it, needless to say i won that one lol

 

[mjonesjr]

The forks don't damage the tie rod, just the boot. I have used the fork many times without damaging the TRE itself.

 

[dude772]

the pickle forks work great unless your trying to save the tie rods them selves, it pretty much runis the boot on them and might pull the ball out fo the cup if they are worn enough.

I like to use an air hammer with an adapter to give the stud a quick shot, doesn't ruin anything! and its quick and easy.

Never fails!

 

[crawlin91]

Yeah I gotta get me some air tools.

 

[mjonesjr]

If you don't have at least an impact, get one BEFORE you start the lift. Also, a 1-1/8" socket will be handy for that impact on the radius arm bolts.

 

[CopyKat]

Two big hammers. a couple of hard hits to either side at the same time and they pop off pretty quick. Hit the metal where the stud it. it impacts the taper and slightly distorts the hole enough to pop it off.

Works every time and no damage to TRE or Boots.

 

[dude772]

Two big hammers. a couple of hard hits to either side at the same time and they pop off pretty quick. Hit the metal where the stud it. it impacts the taper and slightly distorts the hole enough to pop it off.

Works every time and no damage to TRE or Boots.

Then you take the risk of tweeking your steering arm on the knuckle.

If you don't have at least an impact, get one BEFORE you start the lift. Also, a 1-1/8" socket will be handy for that impact on the radius arm bolts.

I suggest one of these... Very good!! enough to make my buddy jelous and make him buy one.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IR-2135TIMAX.html

 

[mjonesjr]

if you can tweak the steering knuckle, then you are a strong SOB.

I have that exact impact. It works amazing!

 

[crawlin91]

going to borrow the electric POS impact from work. Ill get the air version when $ is right....better than nothin

 

[BlackBII]

Two big hammers. a couple of hard hits to either side at the same time and they pop off pretty quick. Hit the metal where the stud it. it impacts the taper and slightly distorts the hole enough to pop it off.

Works every time and no damage to TRE or Boots.

Works for me every time!

 

[crawlin91]

new conversion ujoint for 1 piece driveshaft

I used a conversion 1310-1330 ujoint with the front flange off of the original 2piece shaft. I just cut out the piece holding the carrier bearing completely (its not a strucural part of the frame) as well as shaving an inch or so off of the front 2/3 of the skidplate. Which you will have to do if lifting as the shaft will contact both when the rear droops. I was flexing her out last night and discovered more rubbing so I cut a little more off the skid today.

check the pic below you can see some of the "crossmember" as well as the trimming back to where im pointing

ripped out the 7.5 with the help of moose knuckle fab.

tacking up the 8.8 on its own weight.

and now to do the front, ripped out the old still got a ways to go