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Hi All,
I have a 1999 Project on my hands with the 4.0 OHV engine. Currently, I'm at a crank-no-start and wondering if anyone has any insight on what my next step should be.
Just a quick background: This might not be your normal crank-no-start. About a couple of years ago, the truck was started and allowed to run in a closed(ish) enviroment while high-revving the engine. The result was steam everywhere and from what I can tell, the coolant overflow must have flipped open to relieve the pressure. But never stalled out or anything.
I recently picked up a new battery, (and tested it), poured a tiny bit of new fuel in there, (basically empty gas), and checked the coolant. The radiator was empty. I didn't drain it to verify and thought it just needed topping off, but it took like over a gallon of coolant to bring to the neck. No leaks anywhere as I poured.
I went ahead and tried starting it and nothing. It just won't turn over. I found this thread on another site. It relates to the 3.0, but a pretty good "driver's seat" checklist before moving to actual tests.
PATS: The PATS indicator does not blink rapidly when the key is on the "On" position
Check Engine Light: The CEL comes on with the key in the "On" Position but goes off when trying to start the motor
That seems like it rules out PATS and Crank Position Sensor. So from what I've ready online, it's either Fuel, Spark or Compression. I know the tank could have old gas and I also know the Fuel Filter was replaced since the Truck has been sitting. So I picked up a can of Starting Fluid. I sprayed directly into the Throttle Body while it was wide open. It seems like it's just about to turn over, but nothing. I'm spraying directly for about 2-3 seconds. I could give it more, but also saw some scary YT videos of backfire. I did try going about 5 seconds and it gets closer to turning over but I feel like I'm already giving more than I should need, (Walmart Super Tech brand btw)
So at this point, I'm still looking to figure out if it's A) Fuel or B) Spark / Compression. At what point do I rule out Fuel if this Starting Fluid doesn't help it turnover? Unfortunately, I don't have access to any compression tests or anything.
And a couple of important notes:
It's super hard for me to be certain with all the chimes in the truck, but I don't feel like I'm hearing the Fuel Pump prime. If the starting fluid turned it over, I'd suspect something going on with that, but nada.
When I checked the oil, it's not milky or anything at all like that. it does sit on the high side of the dipstick indicator at cold, but both oil and radiator cap show no signs of anything milky
In addition to the CEL behaving as you'd expect (noted above), there's also a "Check Gauge" light that behaves the same way. Is that a preboot thing or a flag of a problem?
And finally, the inertia switch seems to be fine and not tripped for what it's worth
Horn worked so I swapped the Fuel Pump Relay and Horn Relay. Still no start but the Horn still works after swapping
I have a 1999 Project on my hands with the 4.0 OHV engine. Currently, I'm at a crank-no-start and wondering if anyone has any insight on what my next step should be.
Just a quick background: This might not be your normal crank-no-start. About a couple of years ago, the truck was started and allowed to run in a closed(ish) enviroment while high-revving the engine. The result was steam everywhere and from what I can tell, the coolant overflow must have flipped open to relieve the pressure. But never stalled out or anything.
I recently picked up a new battery, (and tested it), poured a tiny bit of new fuel in there, (basically empty gas), and checked the coolant. The radiator was empty. I didn't drain it to verify and thought it just needed topping off, but it took like over a gallon of coolant to bring to the neck. No leaks anywhere as I poured.
I went ahead and tried starting it and nothing. It just won't turn over. I found this thread on another site. It relates to the 3.0, but a pretty good "driver's seat" checklist before moving to actual tests.
PATS: The PATS indicator does not blink rapidly when the key is on the "On" position
Check Engine Light: The CEL comes on with the key in the "On" Position but goes off when trying to start the motor
That seems like it rules out PATS and Crank Position Sensor. So from what I've ready online, it's either Fuel, Spark or Compression. I know the tank could have old gas and I also know the Fuel Filter was replaced since the Truck has been sitting. So I picked up a can of Starting Fluid. I sprayed directly into the Throttle Body while it was wide open. It seems like it's just about to turn over, but nothing. I'm spraying directly for about 2-3 seconds. I could give it more, but also saw some scary YT videos of backfire. I did try going about 5 seconds and it gets closer to turning over but I feel like I'm already giving more than I should need, (Walmart Super Tech brand btw)
So at this point, I'm still looking to figure out if it's A) Fuel or B) Spark / Compression. At what point do I rule out Fuel if this Starting Fluid doesn't help it turnover? Unfortunately, I don't have access to any compression tests or anything.
And a couple of important notes:
It's super hard for me to be certain with all the chimes in the truck, but I don't feel like I'm hearing the Fuel Pump prime. If the starting fluid turned it over, I'd suspect something going on with that, but nada.
When I checked the oil, it's not milky or anything at all like that. it does sit on the high side of the dipstick indicator at cold, but both oil and radiator cap show no signs of anything milky
In addition to the CEL behaving as you'd expect (noted above), there's also a "Check Gauge" light that behaves the same way. Is that a preboot thing or a flag of a problem?
And finally, the inertia switch seems to be fine and not tripped for what it's worth
Horn worked so I swapped the Fuel Pump Relay and Horn Relay. Still no start but the Horn still works after swapping
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