Common Clutch Issues and Solutions (manual)

[Priestiside]

I have owned a Ranger for about a year. However, I work on vehicles so most defects are understandable. I don’t know anything about clutch plates or the inner workings of a transmission. It would be a good idea to drop anything down here that might come up. My issue is with my third gear syncro. Should I replace my trans or should I try something else?

 

[bobbywalter]

you can swap out to a different fluid...it may get ya by a bit with third gear...

there are various synthetics that aid in shifting...some guys report good results with 0 wt mobile one engine oils...


i just run walmart dextron/mercon and change it once a year....t case and trans.

the failures i have are from abuse...not fluid failure.




from there, since you are a mechanic, refreshing the unit with a rebuild/syncro kit will keep ya on the road for more years then you will likely own it.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I have owned a Ranger for about a year. However, I work on vehicles so most defects are understandable. I don’t know anything about clutch plates or the inner workings of a transmission. It would be a good idea to drop anything down here that might come up. My issue is with my third gear syncro. Should I replace my trans or should I try something else?

I had to look, since you didn't say which year truck you have. I've been on the forum I guess over 3 years now. I was going to change my automatic truck over to manual,. Well I bit the bullet and I'm going to sell that truck, and I already bought a 94 5-speed 4 wheel drive to replace it but it needs a transmission. third gear is very very noisy along with other noises, we are just going to change it out!

Rears, Transmissions, transfer cases, seem to be plentiful at salvage yards. Way to go imo

hydraulic clutch nightmares are not unique to the Ranger. But Replace, replace, replace is really the only way with hydraulic clutch systems.

Joe average just can't seem to get the air out of the master or slave cylinders.

The pre bled kits are not much more expensive than off-the-shelf kits.

Clutch components flywheels Etc again replace replace replace they aren't that expensive.

 

[bobbywalter]

the pre bled can screw ya too as i have seen guys fawk up trying to connect them...


the last 7-8 years i just pop the line off at the trans after good flow to make sure the slave is loaded and hold the line above the master but below the resevoir and push the nipple in till its bubble free then stroke it out at the peddle lightly (will dead head) let up, push nipple and slow push on peddle to air check...


100 percent so far.

 

[Denisefwd93]

the pre bled can screw ya too as i have seen guys fawk up trying to connect them...


the last 7-8 years i just pop the line off at the trans after good flow to make sure the slave is loaded and hold the line above the master but below the resevoir and push the nipple in till its bubble free then stroke it out at the peddle lightly (will dead head) let up, push nipple and slow push on peddle to air check...


100 percent so far.

2 things I learned on my GM cars specially my Fieros where the slave cylinder is actually above the master cylinder, we always had problems. Finally I joined the crowd and bought one of those hand operated vacuum pumps, problem solved! In the layout the Ranger System should be self bleeding but after looking at the master cylinder you can see that air would be trapped at the top of the m cylinder where it can't get out
#2. How to pull a distributor.

 

[bobbywalter]

done the fiero thing.... if i never work on one again...i am good with it...

 

[Denisefwd93]

done the fiero thing.... if i never work on one again...i am good with it...

Lol 7 over 30 yrs. BTW you are beyond "Joe average"

 

[gw33gp]

I have bled the master cylinder in the vehicle. I did have to remove the left front wheel, the splash guard and the fender liner. The master has to be removed from the firewall but the line is not disconnected. It is easier to do this with the cover under the dash removed, to get access to disconnecting the master pushrod from the pedal. Once the master is remove from the firewall, you can rotate it so the hose connection to the reservoir is higher than the line to the slave. Making sure the reservoir is full you can pump the master push rod a few time until it becomes firm. With the reservoir higher it will allow the air to escape to the reservoir.
This is almost as much work as bench bleeding but you don't take the risk of disconnecting the line to the slave and possibly getting air in the line there. Of course, it is best to bleed the slave first too, just to make sure no air is trapped there or in the line.
I have thought that putting the vehicle on a very steep slope (or lifting the front very high) and pumping the clutch pedal would do the same thing without having to disassemble anything but I have never tried it and it could be dangerous.