Common Box/bed issues Ford Ranger questions?

[SlugStang8997]

when it was brand new my 2001 had the same miss match at the front of the bed, the drivers side was higher.
it's still that way.
to check the bed for straightness run two strings between opposite corners forming a big X.
get them real tight, they should touch in the center.
try it both ways, that is alternate which string is on top.

you can check the floor too, run the strings on identical blocks, extra helping hands preferred.

a frame machine is a big & precise rack. the truck is placed on the rack at specific factory mounting locations.
the rack needs setup for each specific vehicle, it's time consuming.
then measurements are taken and compared to published factory numbers..
if needed big chains & jacks are used to bend the frame back into specs.

try for some pics at the front of the rear springs, that's where the front & rear frame sections are joined.
yes, that year Ranger has 2 distinct frame sections, front & rear. they are held together by rivets at the front spring hanger.

just crawling underneath with a carpenters level may reveal what's going on. Park on flat 'n level pavement.

Thanks for your reply
The cabin of the truck is sticking up it seems as well as the bed so something is going on. I was going to order a body mount kit and the bed hardware. But i am unsure of what kit to buy for my truck.
I still think the frame is bent under there some where. My plan was to go back to shop that has the frame machine with the body mount kit and ask them to fix my truck body. If there correct and my frame isn't bent they should be able to do it. If there wrong then they will fail to fix my truck and then i can ask them to put the truck on the frame machine and unbend it. I want to save the truck. Wondering how much it is to unbend a truck frame? I will ask that shop.
I will get photos of the truck on Monday on a lift

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Usually cab mounts settle at the rear of the cab where the weight is, not at the front...

 

[SlugStang8997]

Usually cab mounts settle at the rear of the cab where the weight is, not at the front...

So how is my cabin sticking up then if it’s not bent thanks for your reply

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So how is my cabin sticking up then if it’s not bent thanks for your reply

I never said it wasn't bent, just that it looks like the opposite of bad bushings...

Kinda makes me wonder if it is bent and they don't want to deal with it, a rear hit has killed a lot of truck frames.

 

[SlugStang8997]

I called the shop that claims my truck frame isn't bent and asked them if they could fix the body of my truck if i brought them a body mount and bushing kit and they said they wouldn't or couldn't help me.

So that makes be believe more and more that my truck is probably bent and they just didn't want to deal with it. I was going to schedule next week with another collision shop a free estimate on my truck.

I had to replace my radiator and fix an exhaust leak at the manifold so that set me back on time this week. I also had to take my brothers truck in for an issue so i didn't want to give up my truck again this week.

I took some photos of the bottom the the truck on a lift but didn't really know what to photograph. I will upload those photos some time later today. I have to upload them from my phone to my computer then post them.

 

[Shran]

I called the shop that claims my truck frame isn't bent and asked them if they could fix the body of my truck if i brought them a body mount and bushing kit and they said they wouldn't or couldn't help me.

If a customer came into my shop, asked for and received my professional opinion, and then proceeded to tell me I'm wrong, I would tell them in a nice way that they can hit the road and do business with someone else. It is not worth the headache. So, either they are actually wrong, or they simply just don't want to deal with you.

One local business has a sign hanging up that says "The customer is always right - but WE decide if you are a customer or not" ...... try and see things from someone else's point of view.

 

[SlugStang8997]

If a customer came into my shop, asked for and received my professional opinion, and then proceeded to tell me I'm wrong, I would tell them in a nice way that they can hit the road and do business with someone else. It is not worth the headache. So, either they are actually wrong, or they simply just don't want to deal with you.

One local business has a sign hanging up that says "The customer is always right - but WE decide if you are a customer or not" ...... try and see things from someone else's point of view.

I asked them to fix the body of my truck and i didn't argue that the frame was bent. I simply asked them to help me fix my truck and they turned me away. He even said to me good luck finding the bushings when they had looked my truck over. I offered to bring the bushing and body mount kit to them and have them help me fix my truck. I understand different points of view but I am telling you they just don't want to help me for some reason. Like i said earlier they usually deal with insurance claims and get bigger money. I think they mark up there auto body work and get more money from peoples insurances. Something is wrong over there i think. But idk maybe there good maybe there not.

I also have a modified truck so maybe that's why they don't want to deal with it. I figure i may have that problem. I live in pretty small city as well.

 

[don4331]

Assumptions I'm making (for you to confirm).

The floor of the new box is flat (if nothing else, get a 5' level at Home Depot and confirm)
Next confirm the box channels are touching the frame rails all along the frame. There are 5 channels (which match the 10 bolts in mounting the bed in the '10-11 Rangers).

If the box is touching the frame at all 5 channels, you know that the back 1/2 of the frame is OK.

Then we want to look at the front. The cab is sort of like a teeter-totter - as there are 6 bolt down locations it can 'rock' on the middle and it can rock side to side. So, the issue might be at the opposite end, i.e. a missing bushing at passengers side front/or worse bent front frame, could cause the driver's rear corner to lift.

Note: Doors not closing may be a function of 23 years wear and just need a little adjustment or they could be a symptom of the issue.​

​

Again, 1st thing to look for: Is the cab sitting solid on all 6 cab bushings? Is there a hockey puck between the bushing and the cab??

Hockey pucks are easy way to get 1" lift which makes V-8 install much easier, but they also deteriorate. (Frustrating when you hit the post with an old puck and 1/2 goes in net and other 1/2 goes in corner...its not counted as goal).​

​

We'd like you to park in nice flat location - e.g. Walmart or Home Depot parking lot and take a few measurements.

e.g. Front frame right where bumper mounts, front core support mount, front of front suspension mount, rear of front suspension mount, front cab mount, rear cab mount.​

For the cab mount locations, we want to know both the distance from the ground and the distance to the cab.​

Just be consistent where you measure to and make sure you're measuring perpedicular to the ground.​

​

You will probably have differences side to side.

What we are looking for is an abnormality. e.g. drivers frame to bottom of frame at the front cab mount is 12" to ground, and to the cab is 16"; but on the passengers side, it is 12-1/2" to frame, but 15" to cab. (We'd expect it to be 16-1/2") and the difference might be small i.e. 1/8" not 1-1/2", so careful measuring is required, but with the panel line difference at some point there should be a delta you can see.​

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Assumptions I'm making (for you to confirm).

The floor of the new box is flat (if nothing else, get a 5' level at Home Depot and confirm)
Next confirm the box channels are touching the frame rails all along the frame. There are 5 channels (which match the 10 bolts in mounting the bed in the '10-11 Rangers).

If the box is touching the frame at all 5 channels, you know that the back 1/2 of the frame is OK.

Then we want to look at the front. The cab is sort of like a teeter-totter - as there are 6 bolt down locations it can 'rock' on the middle and it can rock side to side. So, the issue might be at the opposite end, i.e. a missing bushing at passengers side front/or worse bent front frame, could cause the driver's rear corner to lift.

Note: Doors not closing may be a function of 23 years wear and just need a little adjustment or they could be a symptom of the issue.​

​

Again, 1st thing to look for: Is the cab sitting solid on all 6 cab bushings? Is there a hockey puck between the bushing and the cab??

Hockey pucks are easy way to get 1" lift which makes V-8 install much easier, but they also deteriorate. (Frustrating when you hit the post with an old puck and 1/2 goes in net and other 1/2 goes in corner...its not counted as goal).​

​

We'd like you to park in nice flat location - e.g. Walmart or Home Depot parking lot and take a few measurements.

e.g. Front frame right where bumper mounts, front core support mount, front of front suspension mount, rear of front suspension mount, front cab mount, rear cab mount.​

For the cab mount locations, we want to know both the distance from the ground and the distance to the cab.​

Just be consistent where you measure to and make sure you're measuring perpedicular to the ground.​

​

You will probably have differences side to side.

What we are looking for is an abnormality. e.g. drivers frame to bottom of frame at the front cab mount is 12" to ground, and to the cab is 16"; but on the passengers side, it is 12-1/2" to frame, but 15" to cab. (We'd expect it to be 16-1/2") and the difference might be small i.e. 1/8" not 1-1/2", so careful measuring is required, but with the panel line difference at some point there should be a delta you can see.​

The bed is tight to the frame in the wheel arch which looks stock. Given that the front of the bed is like 2" higher than the rear of the cab (per the bodylines) I don't think the cab has a lift.

 

[SlugStang8997]

Assumptions I'm making (for you to confirm).

The floor of the new box is flat (if nothing else, get a 5' level at Home Depot and confirm)
Next confirm the box channels are touching the frame rails all along the frame. There are 5 channels (which match the 10 bolts in mounting the bed in the '10-11 Rangers).

If the box is touching the frame at all 5 channels, you know that the back 1/2 of the frame is OK.

Then we want to look at the front. The cab is sort of like a teeter-totter - as there are 6 bolt down locations it can 'rock' on the middle and it can rock side to side. So, the issue might be at the opposite end, i.e. a missing bushing at passengers side front/or worse bent front frame, could cause the driver's rear corner to lift.

Note: Doors not closing may be a function of 23 years wear and just need a little adjustment or they could be a symptom of the issue.​

​

Again, 1st thing to look for: Is the cab sitting solid on all 6 cab bushings? Is there a hockey puck between the bushing and the cab??

Hockey pucks are easy way to get 1" lift which makes V-8 install much easier, but they also deteriorate. (Frustrating when you hit the post with an old puck and 1/2 goes in net and other 1/2 goes in corner...its not counted as goal).​

​

We'd like you to park in nice flat location - e.g. Walmart or Home Depot parking lot and take a few measurements.

e.g. Front frame right where bumper mounts, front core support mount, front of front suspension mount, rear of front suspension mount, front cab mount, rear cab mount.​

For the cab mount locations, we want to know both the distance from the ground and the distance to the cab.​

Just be consistent where you measure to and make sure you're measuring perpedicular to the ground.​

​

You will probably have differences side to side.

What we are looking for is an abnormality. e.g. drivers frame to bottom of frame at the front cab mount is 12" to ground, and to the cab is 16"; but on the passengers side, it is 12-1/2" to frame, but 15" to cab. (We'd expect it to be 16-1/2") and the difference might be small i.e. 1/8" not 1-1/2", so careful measuring is required, but with the panel line difference at some point there should be a delta you can see.​

Thank you for your reply
I will definitely need help taking measurements. I am pretty terrible at it myself. So i will have to get my brother to help me. I wanted someone to do this for me professionally

 

[SlugStang8997]

Well tomorrow i am going to get my frame professionally measured to find out if its bent or not. So i am finally going to make some progress unless something happens and i can't get over there or something. It will cost 312$ to get the frame measured witch is a small price to pay for piece of mind. Worst case scenario i would have to replace the frame in witch case i would sell the truck depending on how much money they want to replace the frame. Hopefully they can just pull the frame and unbend it. I really would like to save this truck cause i just got it. Or maybe it will turn out not to be bent. I could always sell it for parts. Well i will post again here when i get some news.

This shop did not say anything about a frame machine. They did say they would measure my frame and get it up there, so i assume they have a frame machine or something, unless there is another way to measure the frame. They said they could pull the frame if its bent or try to pull the frame. So i assume they have frame puller. In there services offered frame straightening is one of them.

The other 2 shops that looked over my truck did not measure anything to my knowledge and one of those shops did not have a frame machine or puller so only a visual inspection was done. Witch i don't think tells you that much of anything. A few people on here told me to measure my frame so that is what im going to have done.

I am a little afraid to find out that the truck is bent cause i read online that it's very expensive to have the frame pulled or worse replaced. I read that to have the frame replaced its 5000$ and pulled is 2000$. I only bought the truck for 6500$ so if it is that much i may consider selling it. But i don't think a bent truck will sell well lol i might have to sell it for parts or fix it then sell it. The truck is old so were would i get a frame to replace with, a junk yard i guess. I am not a mechanic so i wouldn't be able to DIY it. I would have to sell it to someone who can DIY it. Anyway i will find out today by the end of the day whats up with my frame.

 

[SlugStang8997]

Well my frame is badly bent diamond bent and the frame has been cut and welded short so the only way to fix it is if i replace the frame i was told. The price to fix the frame is 5500$ or replace the entire frame. I have a video of the frame but i can't upload that here.

So i don't know what to do i only bought the truck for 6500$ and i don't have 5500$ to fix it so i have to sell the truck but not sure how to do that with frame damage. I posted a video in media on it

 

[pentode]

Well my frame is badly bent diamond bent and the frame has been cut and welded short so the only way to fix it is if i replace the frame i was told. The price to fix the frame is 5500$ or replace the entire frame. I have a video of the frame but i can't upload that here.

So i don't know what to do i only bought the truck for 6500$ and i don't have 5500$ to fix it so i have to sell the truck but not sure how to do that with frame damage. I posted a video in media on it

Did they tell you just how bent the frame was? Like how far off it is? If it were me, I'd start thinking of ways to tweak the rest to make the best of it, but if it's 2 inches off, yeah, you might want to think about lemon laws etc.

Edit: see other thread

 

[Lefty]

Did they tell you just how bent the frame was? Like how far off it is? If it were me, I'd start thinking of ways to tweak the rest to make the best of it, but if it's 2 inches off, yeah, you might want to think about lemon laws etc.

 

[Lefty]

This is most certainly a dilemma. You can't really sell this without disclosing what you know. And if you do, you will not be able to recover your investment. Still you have a few other choices. If the thing still drives okay, you could convert it to flat bed. Cnances are you don't want that either.

If you have the money, I suggest another option entirely. Restore it. If you have the money and the time, of course.

That's what I did. A new truck costs $40,000. I always liked the Ranger, prefered having one to newer models. I bought an old Rusty Ranger for $4,000 and put $13,000 into it. It may sound dumb but I got the truck I always wanted. It's brand new, but costs half the price.