Cb radio


Can I hook a ham right into my truck cb antenna or what special things do I need? Is it worth it? I guess
The simple answer is no, you'd need a different antenna. And bear in mind that in order to transmit legally on a ham radio you need a license and a call sign, and that requires taking and passing the Technician (basic) test first. It all goes a lot smoother if you have an interest in electronics to begin with. Plenty of "non-technical" people pass the Technician exam though, it just requires some study and learning, but I think there are lots of hams that don't do a ton of electronics as a hobby, they just enjoy talking to other people.
 
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This ^^^

I’m not huge into electronics but tinker and know enough to fix most things. I was able to obtain my General license pretty easily which opens up more bands.
 
The simple answer is no, you'd need a different antenna. And bear in mind that in order to transmit legally on a ham radio you need a license and a call sign, and that requires taking and passing the Technician (basic) test first. It all goes a lot smoother if you have an interest in electronics to begin with. Plenty of "non-technical" people pass the Technician exam though, it just requires some study and learning, but I think there are lots of hams that don't do a ton of electronics as a hobby, they just enjoy talking to other people.
Ah ok thank you
 
Well, i’m coming late to this dance, a shame, because I love these toys.

The cobra 29LTD has been the big truckers gold standard for decades. It’s a very good radio, and it’s durable. I actually have 3, and one is a 29 Ltd night watch like yours, but the night watch part of it is inconsistent across the face. They had a lot of trouble with that when they came out with it, but it doesn’t affect the performance of the radio at all.

If you got it for free, it might be worth taking it to a truckstop radio shop and just asking them to check it. Sometimes they’ll do it for free, sometimes it’s $15 or $20, but it’s money well spent because it will put you dead on track for what you have to do to build a good system.

On my personal trucks, 96 F250 diesel four-wheel-drive, 97 Ranger, and an 87 Ranger, I mounted the radios between the sun shades above the mirror. The roof is a double sheet metal with a space between them above the headliner, if you’ve got a headliner.

I usually make a relatively square 1/8” aluminum plate, not wider than the CB bracket, and I screw it to the inner sheet metal panel with some self taping screws in each corner. You can hang a Virginia ham off it. I put the CB bracket on it with a couple small nuts and bolts before I mount it to the ceiling.

To locate it, I push it as far forward as it will go with the antenna wire and the power wire attached. When it’s up there, you don’t want it tilting upwards, you want it to sit level so you can see it. I love that location because it’s just a quick flick of the eyes to see the knobs and what’s going on, and I personally believe it’s infinitely more accessible to adjust things or change channels.

I put my mic clip on the right side of the radio, and I can take the mic on and off without even taking my eyes off the road.

The final benefit is that the speaker is pointing down right next to your ear

The 102 inch whip with a 6 inch barrel spring is apparently exactly 1/4 wavelength, and for a mobile unit, it puts out the cleanest signal and has the best receive length.

Shorter antennas usually have some of the element wrapped or they have a coil installed at the bottom or the top to give it the proper electronic whatever to send out the best signal possible from a shorter antenna. Default, since they’re shorter, you don’t get the same output or receipt.

For mounting location, you have to think a little bit about what you’re going to use it for. Over the years I’ve used mine for pretty much two things. If I’m someplace where I’m unfamiliar and I’m looking for something, you can call out and say, does anybody know where such as such is. That’s not as necessary these days with smart phones. My other use was just chatting with whoever was driving down the road when I was on long trips. It keeps you crisp and it keeps you awake. I talk to drivers or the truckers or whomever, and they’re usually willing to chat for the exact same reason.

Since I need it to perform best on long highway trips, I ended up mounting it on the driver side bedside, between the rear wheel well and the tail light. I mounted the ball about halfway from the bottom to the top. With the 102 inch with the 6 inch barrel spring, that leaves about 7 feet of the antenna clear above the bed. It’s far enough away from the cab that the interference from the cab is greatly reduced, as opposed to mounting it close to the cab or on the toolbox.

When I mount the ball, I tilt the antenna inward just about an inch, and I tilt it forward about an inch or inch and a half, so at rest it’s tilting a little bit towards the passenger seat in the front. When you go down the road with a whip, it will bend backwards, which will give you best performance.

I usually also mount a plastic plate on the top of the bed that reaches out enough to touch the antenna, horizontally. If it’s plastic, I drill a couple holes in it, and I run a small zip tie around the antenna. Having that second secure location above the main mount really keeps the antenna standing straight. I always use a very thin zip tie so if I hit a tree branch or such, the zip tie just pops and the antenna lays over, no damage.

If you have to go someplace with a low overhead, you can simply loop a bungee cord around the antenna and hook it to one of the holes in the bed. You can still broadcast while you’re doing that, but the signal will be weaker, but that way you don’t damage the antenna or knock a sprinkler head off in a parking garage

I mount mine on the driver side so that when I’m driving down narrow streets or I have to park, the antenna is furthest from the curb so it’s not banging into tree branches, signs and such.

It’s my understanding, the ideal cable length between the radio and the antenna is 18 feet which is 1/2 wavelength. That’s usually longer than you need, but you’re not supposed to coil up the extra. You’re supposed to lay it back-and-forth irregularly or do a single run up and back rather than coil it. If you coil it, it can act like a transformer loop, and affect the signal.

97 extended cab. I have code 3 lights and other accessories, hence the switch panel. That switch panel also helps the radio sit flat and easy to see. cobra 29LTD nightwatch
IMG_0436.jpeg


97 mounted before sides
IMG_0451.jpeg


87 antennae location
IMG_8367.jpeg


F250 antennae location
IMG_2725.jpeg


That F250 has a fiberglass cap, so the only interference is from the bed, not the cap

I know you said you did yours already, but if you’re like me, you’ll change it around from time to time. I’ve used a similar set up on trucks for 40 or more years, and they always work pretty well.

The 97 has double antennas that are mounted just behind the cab at the level of the door handle, with 6 foot sticks. They’re too close together, so I only have one of them connected. From that location, about 4 feet of the antenna is clear of the truck cab.

87, fewer features, so fewer switches.
Cb radio


Hope it helps
 
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Well, i’m coming late to this dance, a shame, because I love these toys.

The cobra 29LTD has been the big truckers gold standard for decades. It’s a very good radio, and it’s durable. I actually have 3, and one is a 29 Ltd night watch like yours, but the night watch part of it is inconsistent across the face. They had a lot of trouble with that when they came out with it, but it doesn’t affect the performance of the radio at all.

If you got it for free, it might be worth taking it to a truckstop radio shop and just asking them to check it. sometimes they’ll do it for free, sometimes it’s 15 or $20, but it’s money well spent because it will put you dean on track for what you have to do to build a good system.

On my personal trucks, 96 F250 diesel four-wheel-drive, 97 Ranger, and an 87 Ranger, I mounted the radios between the sun shades above the mirror. The roof is a double sheet metal with a space between them above the headliner, if you’ve got a headliner.

I usually make a relatively square 1/8” aluminum plate, not wider than though CB bracket, and I screw it to the inner sheet metal panel with some self taping screws in each corner. You can hang a Virginia ham off it. I put the CB bracket on it with a couple small nuts and bolts before I mount it to the ceiling.

To locate it, I push it as far forward as it will go with the antenna wire and the power wire attached. When it’s up there, you don’t want it tilting upwards, you want it to sit level so you can see it. I love that location because it’s just a quick flick of the eyes to see the knobs and what’s going on, and I personally believe it’s infinitely more accessible to adjust things or change channels.

I put my mic clip on the right side of the radio, and I can take the mic on and off without even taking my eyes off the road.

The final benefit is that the speaker is pointing down right next to your ear

The 102 inch whip with a 6 inch barrel spring is apparently exactly 1/4 wavelength, and for a mobile unit, it puts out the cleanest signal and has the best receive length.

Shorter antennas usually have some of the element wrapped or they have a coil installed at the bottom or the top to give it the proper electronic whatever to send out the best signal possible from a shorter antenna. Default, since they’re shorter, you don’t get the same output or receipt.

For mounting location, you have to think a little bit about what you’re going to use it for. Over the years I’ve used mine for pretty much two things. If I’m someplace where I’m unfamiliar and I’m looking for something, you can call out and say, does anybody know where such as such is. That’s not as necessary these days with smart phones. My other use was just chatting with whoever was driving down the road when I was on long trips. It keeps you crisp and it keeps you awake. I talk to drivers or the truckers or whomever, and they’re usually willing to chat for the exact same reason.

Since I need it to perform best on long highway trips, I ended up mounting it on the driver side bedside, between the rear wheel well and the tail light. I mounted the ball about halfway from the bottom to the top. With the 102 inch with the 6 inch barrel spring, that leaves about 7 feet of the antenna clear above the bed. It’s far enough away from the cab that the interference from the cab is greatly reduced, as opposed to mounting it close to the cab or on the toolbox.

When I mount the ball, I tilt the antenna inward just about an inch, and I tilt it forward about an inch or inch and a half, so at rest it’s tilting a little bit towards the passenger seat in the front. When you go down the road with a whip, it will bend backwards, which will give you best performance.

I usually also mount a plastic plate on the top of the bed that reaches out enough to touch the antenna, horizontally. If it’s plastic, I drill a couple holes in it, and I run a small zip tie around the antenna. Having that second secure location above the main mount really keeps the antenna standing straight. I always use a very thin zip tie so if I hit a tree branch or such, the zip tie just pops and the antenna lays over, no damage.

If you have to go someplace with a low overhead, you can simply loop a bungee cord around the antenna and hook it to one of the holes in the bed. You could still broadcast while you’re doing that, but the signal will be weaker, but that way you don’t damage the antenna or not a sprinkler head off in a parking garage

I mount mine on the driver side so that when I’m driving down narrow streets or I have to park, the antenna is furthest from the curb so it’s not banging into tree branches, signs and such.

It’s my understanding, the ideal cable length between the radio and the antenna is 18 feet which is 1/2 wavelength. That’s usually longer than you need, but you’re not supposed to coil up the extra. You’re supposed to lay it back-and-forth irregularly or do a single run up and back rather than coil it. If you coil it, it can act like a transformer loop, and affect the signal.

97 extended cab. I have code 3 lights and other accessories, hence the switch panel. That switch panel also helps me keep the radio sit flat and easy to see. cobra 29LTD nightwatch
View attachment 140154

97 mounted before sides
View attachment 140155

87 antennae location
View attachment 140158

F250 antennae location
View attachment 140159

That of 250 has a fiberglass cap, so the only interference is from the bed, not the cap

I know you said you did yours already, but if you’re like me, you’ll change it around from time to time. I’ve used a similar set up on trucks for 40 or more years, and they always work pretty well.

The 97 has double antennas that are mounted just behind the cab at the level of the door handle, with 6 foot sticks. they’re too close together, so I only have one of them connected. From that location about 4 feet of the antenna is clear of the truck cab..

Hope it helps
Damn now I feel bad because I got this thing installed and everything now but I appreciate you taking the time to type all this out. Idk if it’s kinda the crappy weather or the inactiveness of a cb but I don’t get much people on here even on channel 19 oh well I guess it’s still cool
 
Damn now I feel bad because I got this thing installed and everything now but I appreciate you taking the time to type all this out. Idk if it’s kinda the crappy weather or the inactiveness of a cb but I don’t get much people on here even on channel 19 oh well I guess it’s still cool
It's one of those things that's good to have if you need it, and just fine if you don't. 😁
 
I always wanted to set up a base station but currently I live in a valley so it’s not really conducive to setting up a base station, lol.
 
A couple after thoughts:

The only way you can ultimately check the performance of your system is talking to other people on the radio. Are you anywhere near an interstate or a highway where there are a lot of truckers? You can park out there, or ride along out there, and try this:

“I’m just getting started and I put in a new radio, can I get a radio check?” The truckers will feel better about talking to someone who wants to get into the hobby versus some lonely jerk who just wants to yak about who knows what.

Once you get a connection, ask them where they are, you’ll be able to get a sense about your reach distance. Ask them how you sound. Is the signal strong? Is my voice clear?

You mentioned you had a mic problem. I bet you can find somebody who’s got a good mic to just plug it into your radio and check it to see if the mic is the issue. If you have a buddy with a CB, you could do a little broadcast check dance. Park a half mile apart and see what it sounds like. Then go to a mile, etc. Please don’t do it on channel 19….

And, are you using real CB radio coax? Did the cable come with the antenna? CB radio cable is different than cable TV cable or other coax cables. A single run should be 50-ohms impedance, typically RH-58 or RG-8X cable. If you run duel antennas, which I don’t recommend. (ideally 8 feet apart, 6 foot minimum), the best set up is a cable that is coupled together at the back of the radio so there is a single cable to each antenna. Those would also be 50-ohms. If you use a double, where a single cable runs to some point and then splits into two cables for the antennas, the single line should be 75-ohms impedance, RG – 59, and the singles would still be 50-ohms. It’s very important that the two single cables are exactly the same length. Even an inch or two difference, and the two antennas will fight each other instead of broadcasting out double strength. Typically doubles would be on the same spot on opposite sides of the truck. 8 feet is close to quarter wavelength. With double antennas, they won’t interfere straightforward or straight back, but the second you’re trying to broadcast off at a little angle, one will fight the other. The greater, the angle, the more the interference, but they will still work 90° out on each side, the signal just won’t be near as strong.

The coax cable should be labeled along the side of the cable. If you splice the cable, it’s also important to splice the shielding. This is easy to do. Strip the outer skin back a couple inches. Then peel back the foil or squeeze back the braided shield. Then strip the signal wire in the center a little bit. Twist the signal wire together, or even better, solder it together. Wrap that with vinyl tape. If you do it carefully, there will be enough shield to overlap itself. If not, you can just smooth it out and then wrap it with a piece of aluminum foil to make the contact from one side to the other. It’s important that it’s wrapped all the way around. Then you can tape the outside. It’ll look prettier if you use shrink tube on the inside and on the outside, but I’m old and feeble, and I always forget to slip the shrink tube on before I put them together

You’ve got several adjustment features on that cobra 29 LTD. If you’ve got somebody you’re talking to, ask them if they’ll chat for a little bit just so you can check the adjustments on your radio. Then make small adjustments maybe just counting from one till five and ask if it sounds better or worse.

And updates on my post:

When I mounted the radios up high, I had to trim the sunvisors a little bit. It’s not that hard to do, and I could write something with a couple pictures if you’re interested. The wires are run around the inside of the windshield bolding.

On the 97, there are extra switches up above because I knew I was going to be adding additional equipment. I ran extra wires too. And I made us spreadsheet of which wires went to whatever or came from whatever, you’ll never remember a year or two down the road. I actually have a paperback GE sitting between the seats on the back of my electric brake controller with a simple little 3 foot wire whip that I use as a back up. The 29 LTD with the 6 foot antenna works pretty good at distance, and the GE works very good for people close by, but the speaker I hear is a little garbled. I put it in while I was trying to figure out the 29 LTD, but I kind of like it sitting there as an extra toy, so I’ll probably keep it.

The 87 actually has a Cabra 148 SSB (single side band). In addition to the base 40 channels, you can click it to the upper side band where you’re only using the top range of the 40 channels, or vice versa on the lower band. It has the effect of giving you twice the wattage, or three times the wattage, but you can only talk to other people who have a single side band. To be clear, it doesn’t clarify the channel, it’s like having 80 more channels, but they have better reach and reception.

The F250 has an old radio shack TRS that has four or five preset stations. Most radios have a quick flip switch between whatever channel you’re talking on and channel 9. This TRS set up has five preset stations I think. I put it in for use in New York City and a couple other big cities. In New York, there are thousands of people on highways that are only a mile or two apart. 19 is the universal channel, and I don’t remember now, but channel 10 was the Brooklyn Queen‘s Expressway, another channel was the Long Island Expressway, etc. There were always different routes you could take, so with the radio you could reach out and find out what the traffic is like on this one or that one before you exit the one you’re on, and then you can track the one you’re on without a lot of interference from broadcast from other areas. I hardly ever do that anymore, and one of the little bars on my digital read out is failing, so when I said it to 19, sometimes it says 19, and sometimes it says 13, which drives me crazy even though the radio works perfectly. I have a second cobra 148 SSB that I’m going to put in the truck. Same thing with the switches overhead.

In total, I think I have a half dozen Cobra radios, I’ve got a half dozen RadioShack radios, and I’ve got half dozen or more of other brands, all pocketbook. And then I have two or three dinosaurs.

I also have an 87 town car and an 88 town car, and a 1978 Lincoln Marc V. I’m probably going to put cobras in the “modern” Lincoln’s. I have a period correct Sears 23 channel “Road Talker” which is also an SSB that I plan on installing on the hump of the Marc V. It’s the size of an old phone book. For those Lincoln’s, I’m going to use a 4 foot stick or whip on the front lip of the trunk lid.

I’m 1 million years old, and I had a CB in my car before the big CB craze in the 70s. I’ve been fiddling with them ever since. It’s in my blood from when I grow up.

You probably figured out that I could go on about this stuff forever, but I wanted to lay out some details if you’re just getting started. When I was coming up, I had to listen to a few gray haired old curmudgeons to figure out how to do stuff, and my beef was they never went if there were enough detail. I’m probably providing too much detail, but obviously you can just Ignore the parts you don’t need, but someone else might be looking for info, the beauty of these forums.

Hope it helps. Good luck with it, keep us posted!
 
I always wanted to set up a base station but currently I live in a valley so it’s not really conducive to setting up a base station, lol.

I live a mile from interstate 285, the crossroads of the south, in a relatively flat area, but I’m sort of on higher ground. I put a 102 inch whip with the barrel spring on the peak of my shop, elevated about 5 feet, and I ran four 8-foot wires from the base at the correct down angle, north east south and west, for the ground plane. I have an old 12 V power supply on my electronic’s bench, where the cable comes down, and I also ran the ground into the dirt beside the garage with a ground rod.

I can easily reach a couple miles up and down the interstate, even from a mile away. That’s how I check my radios when I pick them up at garage sales and such. I was never much into just chatting from the base.

With the cobra 148 single side band, if the weather and conditions are right, I’ve actually talked to Alabama, South Carolina and Tennessee, and once to somebody who told me they were in Ohio, which I’m not sure I believe. But getting a couple hundred miles out on the skip, if the weather conditions are right, is one of the reasons a lot of people have the SSBs.

Just making conversation…
 
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Whether CB or amateur or FRS or GMRS, I'm a big fan of communications that don't rely on a middleman or someone's corporate infrastructure, especially in the event of an emergency. Never a bad idea to have some kind of radio on hand, and the more you can learn about how to make them work well for you, so much the better.
 
I live a mile from interstate 285, the crossroads of the south, in a relatively flat area, but I’m sort of on higher ground. I put a 102 inch whip with the barrel spring on the peak of my shop, elevated about 5 feet, and I ran four 8-foot wires from the base at the correct down angle, north east south and west, for the ground plane. I have an old 12 V power supply on my electronic’s bench, where the cable comes down, and I also ran the ground into the dirt beside the garage with a ground rod.

I can easily reach a couple miles up and down the interstate, even from a mile away. That’s how I check my radios when I pick them up at garage sales and such. I was never much into just chatting from the base.

With the cobra 148 single side band, if the weather and conditions are right, I’ve actually talked to Alabama, South Carolina and Tennessee South Carolina, and once to somebody who told me they were in Ohio, which I’m not sure I believe. But getting a couple hundred miles out on the skip, if the weather conditions are right, is one of the reasons a lot of people have the SSBs.

Just making conversation…
Skip is definitely an interesting thing. Back in the early 2000s when I was really big on using it I found that if skip conditions were right, even using a 4’ mag mount antenna I was able to talk to people many states away.
 
One thing I don't think anyone has mentioned in this thread is the gray line - a great time to listen and experiment is right around dawn or dusk, maybe 30 minutes either side. You often get very good North -South propagation at those times.

Edit: just posted as lil_Blue_Ford posted...

I should search first, but I'm thinking there must be an article on here about radio stuff like sunspots, ground planes etc? Rick W already gave some great info in the post above.
 
Well, i’m coming late to this dance, a shame, because I love these toys.

The cobra 29LTD has been the big truckers gold standard for decades. It’s a very good radio, and it’s durable. I actually have 3, and one is a 29 Ltd night watch like yours, but the night watch part of it is inconsistent across the face. They had a lot of trouble with that when they came out with it, but it doesn’t affect the performance of the radio at all.

If you got it for free, it might be worth taking it to a truckstop radio shop and just asking them to check it. Sometimes they’ll do it for free, sometimes it’s $15 or $20, but it’s money well spent because it will put you dead on track for what you have to do to build a good system.

On my personal trucks, 96 F250 diesel four-wheel-drive, 97 Ranger, and an 87 Ranger, I mounted the radios between the sun shades above the mirror. The roof is a double sheet metal with a space between them above the headliner, if you’ve got a headliner.

I usually make a relatively square 1/8” aluminum plate, not wider than the CB bracket, and I screw it to the inner sheet metal panel with some self taping screws in each corner. You can hang a Virginia ham off it. I put the CB bracket on it with a couple small nuts and bolts before I mount it to the ceiling.

To locate it, I push it as far forward as it will go with the antenna wire and the power wire attached. When it’s up there, you don’t want it tilting upwards, you want it to sit level so you can see it. I love that location because it’s just a quick flick of the eyes to see the knobs and what’s going on, and I personally believe it’s infinitely more accessible to adjust things or change channels.

I put my mic clip on the right side of the radio, and I can take the mic on and off without even taking my eyes off the road.

The final benefit is that the speaker is pointing down right next to your ear

The 102 inch whip with a 6 inch barrel spring is apparently exactly 1/4 wavelength, and for a mobile unit, it puts out the cleanest signal and has the best receive length.

Shorter antennas usually have some of the element wrapped or they have a coil installed at the bottom or the top to give it the proper electronic whatever to send out the best signal possible from a shorter antenna. Default, since they’re shorter, you don’t get the same output or receipt.

For mounting location, you have to think a little bit about what you’re going to use it for. Over the years I’ve used mine for pretty much two things. If I’m someplace where I’m unfamiliar and I’m looking for something, you can call out and say, does anybody know where such as such is. That’s not as necessary these days with smart phones. My other use was just chatting with whoever was driving down the road when I was on long trips. It keeps you crisp and it keeps you awake. I talk to drivers or the truckers or whomever, and they’re usually willing to chat for the exact same reason.

Since I need it to perform best on long highway trips, I ended up mounting it on the driver side bedside, between the rear wheel well and the tail light. I mounted the ball about halfway from the bottom to the top. With the 102 inch with the 6 inch barrel spring, that leaves about 7 feet of the antenna clear above the bed. It’s far enough away from the cab that the interference from the cab is greatly reduced, as opposed to mounting it close to the cab or on the toolbox.

When I mount the ball, I tilt the antenna inward just about an inch, and I tilt it forward about an inch or inch and a half, so at rest it’s tilting a little bit towards the passenger seat in the front. When you go down the road with a whip, it will bend backwards, which will give you best performance.

I usually also mount a plastic plate on the top of the bed that reaches out enough to touch the antenna, horizontally. If it’s plastic, I drill a couple holes in it, and I run a small zip tie around the antenna. Having that second secure location above the main mount really keeps the antenna standing straight. I always use a very thin zip tie so if I hit a tree branch or such, the zip tie just pops and the antenna lays over, no damage.

If you have to go someplace with a low overhead, you can simply loop a bungee cord around the antenna and hook it to one of the holes in the bed. You can still broadcast while you’re doing that, but the signal will be weaker, but that way you don’t damage the antenna or knock a sprinkler head off in a parking garage

I mount mine on the driver side so that when I’m driving down narrow streets or I have to park, the antenna is furthest from the curb so it’s not banging into tree branches, signs and such.

It’s my understanding, the ideal cable length between the radio and the antenna is 18 feet which is 1/2 wavelength. That’s usually longer than you need, but you’re not supposed to coil up the extra. You’re supposed to lay it back-and-forth irregularly or do a single run up and back rather than coil it. If you coil it, it can act like a transformer loop, and affect the signal.

97 extended cab. I have code 3 lights and other accessories, hence the switch panel. That switch panel also helps the radio sit flat and easy to see. cobra 29LTD nightwatch
View attachment 140154

97 mounted before sides
View attachment 140155

87 antennae location
View attachment 140158

F250 antennae location
View attachment 140159

That F250 has a fiberglass cap, so the only interference is from the bed, not the cap

I know you said you did yours already, but if you’re like me, you’ll change it around from time to time. I’ve used a similar set up on trucks for 40 or more years, and they always work pretty well.

The 97 has double antennas that are mounted just behind the cab at the level of the door handle, with 6 foot sticks. They’re too close together, so I only have one of them connected. From that location, about 4 feet of the antenna is clear of the truck cab.

87, fewer features, so fewer switches.
View attachment 140156

Hope it helps

I don't get enough on the CB to bother but I have this for my GMRS instead of an exterman speaker:


When someone comes in over the radio it mutes the regular AM/FM radio and plays what is coming on the CB over the front vehicle speakers.

When I am bombing down the interstate with the windows down and the radio cranked I love it.
 
I love “bobbing” down the interstate with the windows open without anything on it all.

EDIT: bobbing, not mommy - Siri dictation
 
Last edited:
I love mommy down the interstate with the windows open without anything on it all

This could so easily go to the quote thread...
 

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