Canoes

[Roert42]

I know there are a lot of outdoors nature people on here.

Looking for some suggestions on mounting my canoe for longer highway trips. Trying to see if anyone has suggestions or tips.

I have a 17’ Grumman I normally carry it like this, but I’m usually only going a few miles to the river or lake. It works well, but the front is pointed up some and catches a lot of wind.

It seems better on the F250 then the Ranger due to the longer bed.

I’m considering trying to get it more level because a have a trip planned for September that will take us on the highway for 2 or 3 hours.

This picture is of the canoe balanced on its center.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Its not too hard to cut 2x4 to fit in the stake pockets, a 2x4 across, and triangle plywood to stiffen side to side movement. You won't have to worry about front to back as the tied down canoe will prevent that. Use ratchet straps to tie it down anchored in/to the bed.

 

[SenorNoob]

The only suggestion I have is a rear rack the same height or slightly taller than you have on the front.

BTW, 2x2s fit nicely in stake pockets. I used one to mount my flag for Badlands off road park.

 

[JoshT]

I'd go with their suggestions or get something like this to pop into the receiver hitch.



Note that I am not recommending that one, just providing the image and link as an example. Back when dad carried his kayak and canoe around on his Ranger, he built a front bed rack similar to what you have. Maybe slightly taller relative to the cab. He built a rack like pictured to support the rear. IIRC his version was hinged to that it could be lowered without removal for opening the tailgate. Granted the short bed Ranger is a couple of feet shorter than your F-250.

Unfortunately, a large tree branch took out the front bed rack a few weeks back. Fortunately, it was no longer being used and saved the truck cab.

 

[Roert42]

I have a headache rack for both the ranger and the F250, ranger has a camper top on the back right now though.

I built a 2X rack for the rear stake pockets of the ranger a few years ago and it was kind of a pain to get the canoe up there to be honest. I have a nice racing stripe down the center of the cab roof as proof. That's why I'm a little hesitant to build one for the F250.

The F250 is taller, but the bed sides are a good height, I can easily slide the Canoe off my shoulders onto the bed side. Slide it on the plastic covers, then get in the bed and lift it onto the rack.

The headache rack has mounting holes for a light bar, so I'll probably bolt a 2X to the top just to pad the Canoe.

The F250 also has a center stake pocket because of the 8' bed, So I could make a rail for the center of the bed.

If I center it on the headache rack it doesn't hang off the back at all.




Mostly I wanted to know if anyone had experienced that it was better to carry it one way or the other.

Level, pointing uphill, pointing downhill?

 

[JoshT]

The headache rack has mounting holes for a light bar, so I'll probably bolt a 2X to the top just to pad the Canoe.

I was actually considering suggesting something like that as well for a little more clearance between the canoe and roof.

As for the level, uphill, downhill thing... Given the way air flows around the cab while driving down the road, I could be wrong, but I don't think it's going to make that much difference.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

If u roll ur truck into tha lake, u would have amphibious superduty

 

[Roert42]

If u roll ur truck into tha lake, u would have amphibious superduty

Pretty sure that would be the case with or without the Canoe, right side up or up side down, it's now amphibious.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

 

[Roert42]

You make my truck look like @rusty ol ranger 's red fancyboi thing. Too many doors, bed the size of a smart car's trunk, and not enough coal dust.

Although, I think it kept the giant gouge down the side.


You also moved the dents in the canoe and added more of them.


Why would you do this to me....

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

You make my truck look like @rusty ol ranger 's red fancyboi thing. Too many doors, bed the size of a smart car's trunk, and not enough coal dust.

Although, I think it kept the giant gouge down the side.


You also moved the dents in the canoe and added more of them.


Why would you do this to me....

Ur the one that decided we were gonna be frens....

 

[JoshT]

You also moved the dents in the canoe and added more of them.

I can't comment on the truck, but I think that the canoe is accurate. By the time it ended up in that position it probably would have a few more dents. Heck, that tumble is liable to knock out the original dents and put completely new ones in.

We're just going to ignore the giant lily pads, and the fact that the canoe is now big enough to fit a highschool football team. At that width, I think you'd have a hard time tippping it over.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Not necessarily for carrying the canoe, I added about 3" extension to the top of my headache rack. That way I didn't worry about scraping the roof when I loaded stuff. The rear rack I had a few inches lower so it was easier to push stuff up and onto the front rack. With a canoe I would probably make the front 6 or 8" taller so you could load from the side of the truck, front of canoe first then walk to the back an lift the back of the canoe up. That way your not liable to ding the cab top. With ratchet straps you don't have to worry about wind shifting the canoe sideways, compared to ropes. This is speculative for canoes. But I've made a living doing siding and have 40 years experience loading all major of stuff onto my roof racks. Unfortunately I just sold them.

Here you can see the extension I put on top. I hate the way they make headache racks follow the cab, that loses too much area for ladders and lumber. So I make mine wider...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You can get used ladder racks pretty cheap online, you only need half of one.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Extendable-Universal-Capacity-Surfboards/dp/B0F53YHV3D/?tag=959media-20

I have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/WOOWAVE-Universal-Standard-Replacement-Tie-Downs/dp/B0855SYYVV/?tag=959media-20

I can cinch it down and it has some give, also gives it some bite so it doesn't want to slide around.

Ours is a 14', it isn't right or really legal but I just tie down upside down in the 6.5" bed of my F-150. It is stable but there is more than 2' hanging out... 5 miles from the lake and nobody has cared yet.

My FIL hauled it like this:



I know he struggled to tie down, it kept wanting to shift around. I have gutter mounted rail brackets to make a rail for the front of mine but I haven't tried it yet.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I don't think i could build that vevor roof rack for cheaper than $129. That style is basically the same as what I've used. They are a little flimsy but nothing a welder and and some angle iron won't fix. Probably just fine for a canoe as is. I'd use one.