Can I tow with 1st gen ranger?

[ISX_15]

As title suggests whats your guys thoughts on towing with 85 ranger v6 5spd manual. 2 door regular bed. For context i do want to do stiffer springs perhaps add a leaf to the rear. Later down road do brakes obviously and trailer brake adapter. 225s on 15s maybe 16s.
I want to get a single axle camper with water storage, propane, etc, is it possible and safe with a trailer GVWR ~3k lbs or so? However much single axle campers typically weigh.

 

[sgtsandman]

As title suggests whats your guys thoughts on towing with 85 ranger v6 5spd manual. 2 door regular bed. For context i do want to do stiffer springs perhaps add a leaf to the rear. Later down road do brakes obviously and trailer brake adapter. 225s on 15s maybe 16s.
I want to get a single axle camper with water storage, propane, etc, is it possible and safe with a trailer GVWR ~3k lbs or so? However much single axle campers typically weigh.

From memory, I don't think a manual can tow that much weight. The automatics have more latitude. The automatic transmission is supposed to be stronger, as to the why.

The best source for what the tow limits are, is going to be in your owners manual and it does vary a bit depending on cab type, whether it is 4X4 or RWD, and some other things. So, the best I can give you is a general answer. There might be some more detailed information in the Technical Articles section, but push comes to shove, the manual that should be with your truck tends to be the final answer.

Suspension upgrades and so on usually won't change that as far as the Department of Transportation and insurance companies are concerned.

Finally, whatever you do end up towing, don't go into 5th gear while doing it. That is a great way to break a transmission.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Check your door sticker and owners manual to find out how big of a trailer you can pull to be sure. 5spd will limit you officially though and your bigger tires won't help any either.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m gonna move this over to the towing section.

Legally, Ford was notorious for under-rating the manual transmission trucks because they didn’t want poor drivers hauling heavy loads and toasting the clutch early. That is one thing that has always bugged me is that my green Ranger, in stock form, has a higher tow rating than my F-150. I can tell you without a doubt, my F-150 is the better choice for heavy work. The difference there is an automatic for the Ranger and manual transmission for the F-150.

A Ranger should be able to handle a 3-4K trailer, but maybe not legally. Given the vintage of your Ranger (the OP’s Ranger), your weak spot may be the transmission itself. The later M5OD was the stronger manual. I don’t know if it will bolt up to a 2.8 though.

Keep adequate braking distance, stay out of 5th/overdrive when towing, plan all of your moves ahead. I think a V-6 Ranger set up right, with a decent driver, should be every bit capable enough to pull 5k or less. You will want 3.73 or 4.10 axle gears and the biggest brakes you can put on the truck if you plan on doing much towing. My first Ranger was a 3.0, manual (M5OD) with 3.73 gears and 10” rear drum brakes. I towed a lot of stuff in the 3-4K range.

 

[SenorNoob]

I've got about the most capable manual 1st gen Ranger for towing. (Swapped in 4.0, 01 Explorer rear axle, and 95-97 front brakes.) I had a 93 (4Cyl) Nissan pickup on 35's behind it. It was sketchy. Even take off was quite the struggle with 3.73 gears.

 

[ISX_15]

Im thinking something light light. I dont know how much campers and trailers typically weigh but i was thinking something pretty small. Nothing crazy. As far as the transmission goes, im forsure going to replace clutch. Obviously overdrive wouldnt be used mainly drive 55-65 no more then that.

 

[JoshT]

What are your space requirements? Just some place to sleep and store stuff, or room to move, bathroom, etc?

There are a bunch of small tear drop and square drop type campers that are made to pull behind small cars and SUVs that would be perfectly fine behind a first gen Ranger.

If you needed/wanted more space than those offer, I'd probably be looking into pop-ups to stay within weight limits and not be pulling a sail down the road.

Some people buy small cargo trailers and convert them into campers. If kept bare bones they can end up lighter weight that an equivalent sized production camper. This is the route that I plan to go for one of my campers, though it will be not be small enough for a Ranger. Initially I had planned to go with a cargo trailer small enough to pull behind the V8 swapped '99 Ranger, but be large enough to fit my ATV and/or motorcycle when I Want to pull it behind the larger truck. I've since realized that I was encountering too much compromise there and would not end up with what I really wanted. End goal of that camper is to be comfortable and actually have room to take a small sports car on trips with me. What I ahve in mind is about 12 foot long and probably about 6' wide. To be comfortable and fit that I'm not looking at an 8' by 16-18' trailer to build from, and at least a 7' interior height. I probably could pull it with the Ranger, but it's really bigger than I would want to go far with.

Note that I did say "one of my campers". I'm already brainstorming a second camper build, or more accurately be a camping box. I do not need or praticularly want a second dedicated camping trailer sitting around. I have a 5'x10' utility trailer. What I have in mind is a module that is kind of like a cross between a slide-in camper and a square drop. If done right should pull well behind the Ranger. If I get my stuff planned out right, I should also be able to make it like a toy hauler and fit the ATV inside. Basically all I need for this build is walls, insulation, AC, a little light, a bed, and enough head room to sit up on the bed or roll the ATV in. Would probably even be light enough to pull behind a 4-cylinder 1st gen, as long as I didn't get too heavy with the toys/equipment or try pulling any long hills.

I don't mind using park facilities, or setting up an outdoor latrine/shower. For the larger camper I'll have counter space, a fridge, some entertainment stuff, dinette, etc. For the little module it'll basically be like pulling an air conditioned tent. Like tent camping everything except sleeping will be done outside. Aside from location access (staying in places without motels) probably my #1 goal for having a camper is to have a climate controlled space to sleep in. I could handle a canvas tent in 110 degree weather (high 80-90s overnight) when I was in my youth. These days I can barely handle being outside in that weather for long, forget about sleeping in it, but that weather is the southeast US. Secondary is having everything mostly packed and ready to go, no packing and minimal camp set-up/break-down. Much more likely to travel if I have a set-up like that. Somewhere mixed in there is ability to take toys along.

Sorry I got a bit rambling in there. Tends to happen when I'm tired, and life has had me going constant for the last week or two.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Im thinking something light light. I dont know how much campers and trailers typically weigh but i was thinking something pretty small. Nothing crazy. As far as the transmission goes, im forsure going to replace clutch. Obviously overdrive wouldnt be used mainly drive 55-65 no more then that.

The most our popup trailer is supposed to weigh is 1200lbs. No idea what it weighs when we go but my V8 swapped Ranger plays with it.

 

[Terrys87]

I have towed heavy things that I probably should not have with my trucks. To me if I can get it to pull it I will. Do not use 5th gear or overdrive in any truck. Spend the money having trailer brakes on added to your trailer and to your truck. Everyone thinks about power for pulling and stopping gets very little attention. When you get your trailer brakes set correctly, you will not notice a trailer being behind you. No matter how safe you are at pulling a trailer, there will be an emergency stop in your future. Trailer brakes are so nice.

Also, I can't think of the correct name, but you can get a load leveler added to your trailer that levels your truck out instead of having to increase your springs. It is attached to the trailer and usually has an anti sway bar attached to it as well. Probably any camper sales will know what I am trying to explain and can set you up correctly.

Next time you are at a gas station or truck stop on the interstate and you see a truck pulling a camper and doing a hard turn in the parking lot, you will hear some strange noises. It is the anti sway bar adjusting to the turn.

 

[bobbywalter]

i dont remember any v6 ranger not rated for 5k as long as 373 or 410 gears were part of the equation. the wormy ass brakes on the 7.5 and d28 no less. i could be wrong.


i know the low rating was 3300 ish with a 2.3 carb....so i would say you are fine.


a v8 swap and beefed up full floater axles and suspension takes the worry right out of it for me though... as long as your chassis isnt rotten you already have the best one as far as steel is concerned.

before, i towed fullsize trucks with mine with d35 and 31 spline hd bearing 8.8, smallblock and built aod with a big brake booster. sometimes without trailer brakes...though i was using 31 in tires doing that. that was around 8k total.

even with the 2.9 v6 and failomatic i towed my 73 challenger around quite a bit, usually flat or dolly towing but it worked ok. trans hated it. so that was 3 in suspension and 3 in bodylift all ranger drivetrain.

 

[JoshT]

Also, I can't think of the correct name, but you can get a load leveler added to your trailer that levels your truck out instead of having to increase your springs. It is attached to the trailer and usually has an anti sway bar attached to it as well. Probably any camper sales will know what I am trying to explain and can set you up correctly.

I think you are thinking about a weight distributing hitch.

 

[don4331]

My standard disclaimer: I provide legal information on the forum.

Your owner's manual limits the '85 Ranger to 2,200lbs trailer towing for the 2.8/manual/4x2.. (It's really 5,000lbs GCWR, as the 4x4 tows 200lbs less) See the attached Towing guide - its a copy of a copy but the best I have.

Note: The 2,200lbs is based on the truck having 3 - 150lb occupants* in the cab and full tank of gas, no junk stuff behind the seat/in the box, etc. The 3 occupants is derived from the number of seatbelts, 150lbs was (still is for J2807 trailer standard) the average weight for an individual. So, in theory you could tow a little more than the manual, legally. Just no sandwich maker in passenger's seat(s), etc...​

Arizona trailer law requires truck with trailer having less than 3k lbs. GVW to be able to stop within 40'; a number of other states (Pennsylvania, Washington) add a caveat; the trailer needs brakes if >40% of the GVW of the towing vehicle ('85 Rangers start at 3,800lbs GVW = 1,750 lb. GVW trailer). The fine print: The trailer weight is the GVW of the trailer, not the actual weight of the trailer. (There is an assumption that you might fill up to limit but not overload the trailer.)

To address some points above:

A Cologne V-6 (2.8) is a Cologne V-6 (2.9) is a Cologne V-6 (4.0 OHV) is a Cologne V-6 (4.0 SOHC) as far as mating transmissions goes (OK, there is an extra bolt hole for the SOHC, but it isn't critical for this discussion). Therefore it would be possible to replace the weak Toyo Koygo with the stronger Mazda M5ODR-1.​

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It is possible to upgrade brakes on '85 Ranger:​

Replacing knuckles with '95+ to get larger rotors/2 piston calipers)​

Upgrading to 10" drums/Aerostar drums (finned) if you only have 9" ('85 will have smaller axle hubs, so Aerostar drums should be a simple install.)​

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The above don't change things in the eyes of insurance, but they help with peace of mind.​

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@Terrys87's comments are spot on:​

Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) - for the latest small SUVs, they are making them for 350lbs tongue weight 2,200lb. trailer * 15% = 330lb tongue weight - close enough for me. Heavy on the tongue is OK; light is not. WDH will weight ~50lbs, but are worth every ounce e.g. https://www.blueox.com/swaypro-weight-distributing-hitch/?weight=0-350+Lbs​

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Trailer brake controller (The state of the art ones with accelerometers are pretty hands free)​

To stay under 2,200lbs, tent trailers like @85_Ranger4x4's are your best bet. (There might be older Scamp trailers in that weight range too.)

p.s. The trailer sales guys will sell you way too much trailer given the chance - bigger trailers cost more = higher commission.