Can I install gears without the tools?

[bottledgt]

oh i know it can happen, but theres more of a chance it aint broke than that it is

 

[4x4junkie]

Not with that kind of mileage.

 

[Evan]

why is everybody always bitchin about broken crosspin bolts?i do about 3 gearsets a week give or take and probably have done about 500 total, and ive only witnessed 1 or 2 broken bolts.and its usually because the spiders get dry and try to weld themselves to the pin which makes the pin turn and break the bolt

Are those all 8.8 and 7.5 rear ends?

The high mileage 8.8 in my Explorer had the bolt broken. It's CLEARLY a problem with these rear ends. That's why people "bitch" about it, and that's why vendors sell a tool specifically designed to remove the other half of the bolt.

 

[bottledgt]

Are those all 8.8 and 7.5 rear ends?

The high mileage 8.8 in my Explorer had the bolt broken. It's CLEARLY a problem with these rear ends. That's why people "bitch" about it, and that's why vendors sell a tool specifically designed to remove the other half of the bolt.

yes all 8.8 and 7.5's. mainly 8.8's. they sell a tool for everything.

 

[Evan]

yes all 8.8 and 7.5's. mainly 8.8's. they sell a tool for everything.

Something is only sold if there is a demand for it.

 

[CopyKat]

I just pulled the gear out of an 8.8 that had 400 000+ Km's on it and it came out fine and still had the locktite on the threads.

If the diff has been opened at one time or another and the gears messed with the chance of a broken bolt are alot higher. Once the bolt has been over torqued it will yield and you may not know it. I've done alot of torque testing on bolts and without proper wrenches, and new bolt. You'll yield the boltnearly 90% of the time. I've had bolts torqued to spec and when viewing the graph from the DC trace software you can see right where the fastener yielded.

Torque a bolt and you streach it. if done too many times it will not spring back as the yield modulus has been exceeded, resulting in a broken bolt.

Have you ever seen what happens when you don't torque that bolt enough?? I do and I'll be happy to report that a VMS or TRS cover will keep every bit of the carrier and spiders inside the diff.

I've swapped an open carrier for a Trac-loc and not had to reset the gears. I wasn't changing the gears just the carrier. I've also done this to my D35 front using a Jeep carrier.

But yes the gears will need to be resetup in the new diff. But swapping guts from one to the other will not wreck it but give you a starting point to re-set the gears.

 

[Hardwareman]

Ok guys here's my story: First of all I'm sorry for causing any kind of controversy but I really need help here.

I went to the old WHITE GUY who originally did my "gear set" and it appears he may be "out of business".

I was forced to call somebody else who's basically one of those high dollar outfits trying to make as much as possible off of someone who can't do the job him/her self. They wanted over $550.00. Way too much for my blood. It did'nt even cost me that much originally when I bought the gears new AND had them installed!

Can someone "PLEASE" tell/explain how and what I need to do these myself?!

I promise I will not try to rip someone else off when they need help themselves. I just need to know what the bare minimum is that I need in order to set these up properly. Thank you very much!




Allen

 

[bottledgt]

dial indicaor, torque wrench,. you can check the preload by feel if you know what youre doing, which in this case i wouldnt try. so youll need an inch lb torque wrench also. parts you will or may need- seal,pinion nut,crush sleeve, carrier and pinion shim kit

 

[MAKG]

Well, if you could haul the thing up here, I'd give you a hand with it. But that's over 300 miles each way.

You can pick up a dial indicator really cheap at Harbor Freight (less than $20).

And give Randy's or West Coast Differential a call. They have a niiiice installation guide (though I think I've seen a better one online -- RPS?), and will sell you various flavors of install kits (you need a "shim kit," including a crush washer and pinion nut). Give yourself lots of time, check and recheck the contact pattern, and then you'll be good.

A very nice trick for compressing that $#@% crush washer is to thread an M12x1.75 bolt through the companion flange, to keep it from turning.

 

[Hardwareman]

Thanks a lot Mike! Yeah there's a lot of times where I wish some of you members lived a lot closer.

Ok, so I'll go to Harbor Freight and buy a dial indicator then. I have a torque wrench but it's one of those Pittsburgh ones where you adjust it by turning the handle and then lock it on the bottom. Is that good enough?

Can I reuse the shims from my old gearsets and can I buy a crush sleeve and pinion nut from say "AutoZone"? What about the gear marking compund?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm going to attempt this over the weekend. Of course with your guys help and all.......hahaha. I'll post up pics too so you guys can see if it's right or wrong. Thank you very much guys.

Could'nt believe that guy wanted that much to do it!




Allen

 

[MAKG]

You will probably have to adjust the shimming some. The existing shims are a good starting point.

You'll need an inch-lb torque wrench (NOT a clicker) to measure the preload. Those are kinda pricey. I spent $65 on my S&K several years ago. It's a beam-type.

You can get all the supplies from a rear end shop. West Coast Differentials (differentials.com) is nearby in UPS-land (I think they have a shop in Fresno, and I know there is one in the Sacramento suburbs). They sell a "shim kit," which is quite close to what you need.

 

[bottledgt]

Thanks a lot Mike! Yeah there's a lot of times where I wish some of you members lived a lot closer.

Ok, so I'll go to Harbor Freight and buy a dial indicator then. I have a torque wrench but it's one of those Pittsburgh ones where you adjust it by turning the handle and then lock it on the bottom. Is that good enough?

Can I reuse the shims from my old gearsets and can I buy a crush sleeve and pinion nut from say "AutoZone"? What about the gear marking compund?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm going to attempt this over the weekend. Of course with your guys help and all.......hahaha. I'll post up pics too so you guys can see if it's right or wrong. Thank you very much guys.

Could'nt believe that guy wanted that much to do it!




Allen

a gear job is about 200 bucks give or take...your torque wrench will work on all but the preload check torque,which to be honest can be done by hand. just work up to it and after you reach the point where it isnt free spin anymore, its usually about an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. you will notice a good drag on it while spinning. but not to the point where you can feel the rollers in the bearings moving. if you go that far, you have to start all over with new crush sleeve

 

[rickcdewitt]

someone who has done axles before is priceless to a first setup.i strongly suggest you find someone who can help you.it can go to hell fast

 

[oldmantruck]

Did I miss something, why not just swap out the entire housing?

 

[oldmantruck]

Never mind, I missed something. Read the entire question just like in skool