Calling all 94+ 3.0 Ranger Owners

[Webslinger67]

I just had my 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 5 speed rebuilt by a "reputable" garage here in Las Vegas

Unfortunately , it seems as though I gave them a buttload of money, and got my original engine back with just a coat of paint on it.

Now, they may have actually rebuilt it, but I suspect, putting it back in, they hooked up something wrong, and now the crank case is under a huge amount of vacuum.

So, I am asking everyone with a 3.0 liter, to go out, start up your truck and pull the oil filler cap off. Does it stumble , and almost die when you do that.

I do not recall this truck doing that before I had it rebuild, AT ANY TIME, and I have had this truck since it had 25k on the odometer .

Although, I dont see the reason to pull the filler cap during idling, but I have done it to see if there was site of oil flowing after I changed my heads a year ago.

So, please if you will, go out, fire up your truck, let it idle and pull the oil filler cap and tell me if anything happens IE stumbles, dies etc.

Thanks you guys.

PS. the truck is back at the shop also because it uses 1 quart of oil every 500 miles with only 2000 miles on the motor...but... thats another thread for another time.

thanks
WEbslinger

 

[Ranger850]

I know for a fact I have driven my truck, with NO oil filler cap, for at least two weeks. I lost it when I changed my oil and it took me a while before I raised the hood again. Didn't even notice it was gone till then.

 

[fastpakr]

I would definitely anticipate it creating a small vacuum leak, but it surprises me that you'd notice that much of an effect.

 

[adsm08]

I would definitely anticipate it creating a small vacuum leak, but it surprises me that you'd notice that much of an effect.

It shouldn't do what the OP is describing.

It is likely related to the massive oil consumption.

 

[Webslinger67]

I agree, the vacuum could be the issue with the oil usage, and I to have pulled the oil cap during a running 3.0 and it never stumbled at all...

this thing just about dies...

now, what could be the issue?

Smog system hooked up wrong?

Anyone ever heard of this?

Webslinger

 

[adsm08]

Just for kicks, do two tests for me

1) Check the manifold vacuum.

2) See if the dipstick tube is under vacuum. You can just hold your hand or a finger over it while the engine is running.

 

[Webslinger67]

Just for kicks, do two tests for me

1) Check the manifold vacuum.

2) See if the dipstick tube is under vacuum. You can just hold your hand or a finger over it while the engine is running.

Ok, I am picking up the truck tomorrrow, I will check this .

They told me my 1 year old injectors were the problem.... and he says that pulling the oil cap the vacuum should be like that on the crank case....

and yet again, no answer on why the oil consumption.

So I gotta go down and rage again tomorrow.

 

[helpme]

My Ranger does not do what you described. And I've still got the original injectors at 250K miles.
It has consumed a little oil even from day one. I bought it new.

 

[Webslinger67]

Update!!

Ok, so they are trying to tell me all , then they backed down to one, of my injector(s) need replacing due to it running too rich.

so, ok, lets check this out, i will go pull plugs and see if they are wet.

before I do that, I take my obd1 tester, do a running cylinder % test and see what comes of it after 3 tests.

It failed the first test with #2 being under powered, PLUS the coolant temperature too low.

Now, I know its been running cold since i got it back from the shop months ago, so i changed both sensors....no change.

and I mean cold, as in i can put my hand on the side of the radiator and it feels like a glass of warm milk.

COLD = NO HEAT = NOT enough compression, and no firing

we move on.

I pull the #2 plug...look at the plug...odd firing pattern, and also...no fuel stink like a rich or fouled plug.

hmmmmm

lets do a compression test

90LBS........ 90 F(@#*#*#*KING POUNDS.

i look at the plug again...damn that gap is huuuuge..... .65 on the gap..wtf....put it back to .44

i decided to pull the easiest plugs and check them, compare gaps and compression's....

#1 85lbs...doesnt hold , drops 10 in 30seconds
#5 90 lbs.

look at the plugs of the 3 cylinders.... #2 has a different plug than the others ...SO THEY F20384309KING KNOW THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE.

so , i am going to go one stop further...although i know the outcome as I keep my tools pristine..

I am going to take my expensive Matco compression testing tool to be calibrated.

then when i do the test again , i can be confident that i am right, then I am going to tell them im not changing injectors till i get at least 125 compression across the board.

You cant trust any shops these days.

 

[Denisefwd93]

They give you the; "new rings, compression will come up after you drive it a few thousand miles" ?

I can only say it seems to be true, years ago the crate engine we installed and one of my cars actually ran better after about 3,000 miles.

 

[fastpakr]

It may run better after it loosens up a bit, but the compression should be immensely better than reported.

 

[RB7 Ranger]

Vacuum in the crank case could be a bad intake manifold gasket or a cracked manifold, I agree 90 psi is low compression and if all are the same , could be unsteated rings which can be checked with a leak down check , could also be late valve timing which would make for low vacuum at idle and low comression, and hotter exhaust.
are you doing your compression check with throttle wide open and a good cranking speed?

 

[huh?]

Pcv?

 

[Webslinger67]

update!!! #2

They give you the; "new rings, compression will come up after you drive it a few thousand miles" ?

I can only say it seems to be true, years ago the crate engine we installed and one of my cars actually ran better after about 3,000 miles.

why yes...yes they did...and I somewhat believe that, but i don't believe it will quit using a quart of oil every 500 miles.

So, did many tests today...

Just for kicks, do two tests for me

1) Check the manifold vacuum.

2) See if the dipstick tube is under vacuum. You can just hold your hand or a finger over it while the engine is running.

Manifold vacuum good and yes, the dipstick tube is under vacuum.

I did full compression tests today, not just quickies, with 2 meters... all cylinders are 120 - 130 psi (i think thats low, imo) but with in standards.

#4 being 120 and #3 being 130 , the rest are about 125 give or take a pound.

#6 plug, showed burning oil (crusty all on the plug end)

I put on my manual fuel pressure regulator, took it down to the low side of running at 26psi , seems to run better..

ok, so here's a thought, the injectors I got for it last time, might not be the 14lbs, but 19lbs, does this sound like a symptom of "oops, I got the wrong injectors and trusted someone else to sell me the right ones"?

Also...THIS THING RUNS FING COLD...
It doesnt even move the needle up to the N....and I live in Las Vegas, on 90-100 deg days.

I changed both sensors for the computer and for the gauge. No change....
I am thinking thermostat, but they said they changed it. (yup, just checked the receipt) So I might change it again.
I know it runs a 195deg ...does anyone know of a part number for a 205deg?
This thing has always run a little cold, but not like this, and in fact, it ran warmer before I had it rebuild... I wonder if there is even a thermostat in it.

Any inputs guys are appreciated, thanks for the help thus far

 

[adsm08]

What happens to dipstick tube vacuum when you disconnect the PCV?