I'm calling it "Low-C"

[ForgedCrank]

Even though it shouldn't be done on efi, you can slowly turn up the idle by adjusting the throttle idle screw. These are best idle at 750 to 850. Reason it's stumbling is the idle is to low and it fighting to not shudder and die. My experience with the early 4.0 5spd explorers and rangers had a lower idle than the 2.3 and 3.0 5spd trucks.

Will that actually work on this thing? In the past when I tried to do that on other vehicles, it didn't matter what you do with that screw, the computer just puts it right back anyway

 

[RobbieD]

I'm really starting to dig the stripped down, rude and primitive nature of the old Ranger. It takes me back.

I have 3 '94s, a '90, and an '84. I get the biggest grin driving the 1984. Now, if I can only find a genuine Ford AM/FM 8-track to go in it, I could really go back in time.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Before you do that I might just take the IAC off the side of the throttle/intake and clean it out with MAF cleaner or electric parts cleaner, I don't think it's opening. If you unplug the IAC with the engine running it should drop down to about 500rpm but since you're already there it might stall, if it stalls then adjust the screw until the idle is up around 500rpm then plug it back in and it should get better...

 

[ForgedCrank]

Before you do that I might just take the IAC off the side of the throttle/intake and clean it out with MAF cleaner or electric parts cleaner, I don't think it's opening. If you unplug the IAC with the engine running it should drop down to about 500rpm but since you're already there it might stall, if it stalls then adjust the screw until the idle is up around 500rpm then plug it back in and it should get better...

Well, I was goofing around this morning... warmed up the truck and then pulled the IAC connector and it immediately idles down further, then dies. It appears to be doing it's job at least somewhat. I'm starting to suspect maybe someone was already messing with that throttle body stop screw in the past.
I'm going to pull that IAC valve and clean it this weekend, then if that makes no difference, i'll jack the stop screw in a little until I get it closer to 800~ rpm.

 

[superj]

i like mine being stripped down too. old school.

the wife wants me to get a jeep gladiator. we have been driving them around and trying them out. they are nice and would be good for trips because her 2019 wrangler is very good for trips but she wants something we can put larger stuff in the bed and tow more with then the ranger stepside does.

but we are keeping the ranger. we can sell off some of hte other vehicles but the ranger is to solid a truck to get rid of for something new and electronic

 

[scotts90ranger]

Well, I was goofing around this morning... warmed up the truck and then pulled the IAC connector and it immediately idles down further, then dies. It appears to be doing it's job at least somewhat. I'm starting to suspect maybe someone was already messing with that throttle body stop screw in the past.
I'm going to pull that IAC valve and clean it this weekend, then if that makes no difference, i'll jack the stop screw in a little until I get it closer to 800~ rpm.

The more proper way is to adjust it to ~500 or so with the IAC unplugged but yeah, you're on the right track.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, I took the IAC valve off and cleaned it up real nice... now the thing won't idle at all. hahaha
RANGER DOWN! RANGER DOWN!

Anyway, new one on order. Hopefully this thing was the problem all along but we'll see.

 

[nickname23]

Really miss that dashboard, don't get me wrong my new ranger is not that much older but that 80s dash always had more character

 

[scotts90ranger]

Really miss that dashboard, don't get me wrong my new ranger is not that much older but that 80s dash always had more character

I agree, my favorite is the '89-94 dash

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, I've been on a de-rust campaign while I wait on the rest of my brake parts. Took a scaler to all the brackets, then sand-blasted where appropriate to remove all of the original peeling factory undercoating (I think it was factory applied anyway). Applied Eastwood rust converter, then a coat of eastwood rust encapsulator. It's all set up now, going to get a top coat of semi-gloss black now.
Also while I was digging in my paint cabinet, I found an old car of POR-15 caliper paint. I always paint calipers black and once I accidentally ordered blue from Amazon so I figured, why not use it.
On the bad news front... I think the input bearing on my trans is bad. Never got any responses on my post about it, so I'm going to have to assume and plan a rebuild. I'm going to have to pay someone to do it so the price of the old Ranger just went up dramatically.

 

[ForgedCrank]

More cleanup, black cover coat

 

[ForgedCrank]

Took the beast on it's first real endurance test last weekend, 250 mile round trip interstate run. Other than the tires being very old and slightly out of balance, it drove well and we had no hiccups at all. Averaged 24mpg @ 70mph as well.
I do have a tiny oil leak somewhere in the front... being slung from the timing belt, so now I'm dealing with regrets of not replacing the front main and oil pump seals while I had it apart. They weren't wet when I took it apart so I figured they were fine. Of course I'm guessing, my newly installed cam seal or the cam sprocket bolt could be the culprit for all I know. I might make that a next summer project as I'm not in much of a mood to tear it all back apart again right now. the leak is very small and only creating a little mist that collects on top of the valve cover after 50+ miles or so, no drips underneath. So far I'm quite happy with the result, it appears to be a pretty reliable beater. Not counting my labor, I've got about 1500 bucks in it total at this point. Needs another $600 in tires to make it right, but that's for later.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, due to a really slow drip (transmission fluid), I decided I needed to seal up the shift rail plugs. I got the Doorman 555-093, and they are NOT the correct plugs. I can't even remember where I got that part number at this point, but they are far too large by about 1/2". so in the end, I just used HondaBond, cleaned up the holes and plugs super-clean, and sealed them up.
I also decided to install new shifter bushing kit while I was in there since it was really sloppy. I discovered when I took it apart that there was no bushing left at all, totally gone. All that remained were the spring washers... so that plastic is swimming around in the bottom of my transmission somewhere. I don't figure it should really hurt anything though, it's soft plastic and has probably already been down in there for years. One thing I don't like is that the shifter is now TOO tight... but I'm too lazy to take it back apart and take out the spring washer. I figure it'll wear in eventually.
I also discovered that the leak may not have even been the rubber plugs. It appears to me that it may be leaking from whatever the sensor is up near the top of the trans on the D-Side (circled in red). I'm not sure what it is for though.

.

 

[SenorNoob]

That should be the reverse light switch. I would try taking it out and using a little Teflon pipe tape on it.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Coming up on 1 year now, the Ranger is doing great. It's about the only vehicle I drive now. Ive put about 6K miles on it putzing around and a few trips up north do do property maint. It's running great. I did notice a crack was barely starting to form in the dash, so I got some clear 3M trim adhesive and injected it into the crack and filled as much as I could underneath, them smoothed some on top. I then installed a Dash Designs cover to keep the sun off of it. I'm not a big fan of the dash covers, but I figured what the heck. The dash is going to crack all to hell eventually so I may as well try to mitigate it for as long as I can. It fits pretty well and I think I'm happy with it.