Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap


Technically yes timing but what's most likely happening is the spark is jumping to another cylinder with the offset. It's basically how the HVS flat top distributors that GM used in the late '90's work but with that they have a separate crank sensor for rpm and just a 1x cam sensor. With those you have to align the cam sensor to TDC to center on the spark output contact things...
 
Technically yes timing but what's most likely happening is the spark is jumping to another cylinder with the offset. It's basically how the HVS flat top distributors that GM used in the late '90's work but with that they have a separate crank sensor for rpm and just a 1x cam sensor. With those you have to align the cam sensor to TDC to center on the spark output contact things...

How I picture it is at low rpm it basically runs at base idle. As it revs it starts playing with the timing advance and it walks it from one cylinder to the next.
 
How I picture it is at low rpm it basically runs at base idle. As it revs it starts playing with the timing advance and it walks it from one cylinder to the next.
Yes, if it's off enough it'll move to the next cylinder in the firing order once the advance is enough to make that contact closer than the one it's supposed to go to
 
I got a new dizzy and no major parts seem to fall off... and they are not planning any severe weather so hopefully I can try it tonight
 
I got the dizzy stuck in it. I had to dig thru the stash and find a longer plug wire for #2, it wouldn't reach with the smaller cap. Lined the paddle under the rotor with the pickup coil sensor and set it to 15* BTDC again.

The smaller distributor is much nicer to work around, not having the vacuum can lets me put it wherever I want. I purposely moved it a tooth just to have more room for the cap clips around the heater hose lol.

It started right off. I sneaked it out and turn it around so I can let it run outside while still have light in the engine bay and nosed into the garage. Hooked the timing light and the laptop up to it and locked out the timing advance in the computer. Checked the timing quick and it was right on. Let it warm up, only wiggled the cap back and forth to check the line was centered on the pointer and locked it down. Unlocked the timing in the computer... slowly eased it to 2400rpm without issue. Then I reset the fuel learn table to get rid of whatever weird algorithm it cooked up with the screwy timing, gathered my courage and took it on the road.

Ran normally on my gravel road a half mile up to the end, turned around and went to the next stop sign about 3 miles away and it drove great. Couldn't take it anymore and let it breathe a bit on the way back... holy crap. Power for days. Smooth and beautiful, honestly the truck has never ran better based on that short test drive.

I need to secure the fuel lines along the frame and get the interior back together and just run the thing at this point. I also really need to sneak it to a gas station and put fuel in it too lol.
 
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Sweet, glad it was just timing jump, that symptom can be a jerk! Without having a crank sensor to gauge the difference it would be difficult to find, glad it worked out!
 
As I was swapping the distributor last night

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

And tonight:

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

Put all the intake tubes back on and whatnot and put tools away tonight. Just a plain old 4bbl 302...

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap
 
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Secured the fuel lines after work today and took it for a maiden voyage on the highway,

Pulled out and let it sing... and about 3500rpm it starts popping again. :annoyed:

Ran around town taking it easy, otherwise didn't go too bad.

Get home and play with the first distributor more...

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

Apparently "locked" means different things to different people?

I got side tracked when the thing fell apart I really didn't look at either of them too hard aside from making sure the gear wouldn't fall off the second one. The one in the truck does have mechanical advance just like this one as well.

I pulled each weight off looking for a way to lock it up and nothing jumped out. Of course no paperwork and no info on line for them.

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

So I have a return ticket for both of these POS's now. I was hanging onto the first one to make sure I wasn't going to need to swap parts for the second one.

Looking into rephasing the DS dizzy now... although it is becoming very tempting to just throw Duraspark back on the thing.
 
I get that it's "not as advertised" so you're sending it back. But shouldn't any spring and weights based advance be as simple as replacing the springs with something solid?
 
But shouldn't any spring and weights based advance be as simple as replacing the springs with something solid?
Wrap a piece of bailing wire around all the moving stuff and make it snug.
 
Its been a long time since I've been inside, but wouldn't removing weights and springs then screw the two plates together?
 
To be honest when I discovered that last night I was so disgusted I forgot about the wire trick
 
I got some finer wire than baling wire, deleted the springs/weights and wired it up.

Runs like it should timingwise, now after 3 attempts at a locked distributor I think we can finally proceed to getting a tune hammered out.

They tout this system as "self learning" which it really isn't after I get into it more. It tries to correct but basically tells you what you need to change and you have to work together to get it right.
 
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I started actually tuning the thing, not knowing what I am really doing it is kind of fun so far.

From what I have gleaned off the interwebs there are two tables that really are key. The VE (Volumetric Efficiency) and the Self Learn Table.

You pick stock, mild or race for the VE table (obviously I opted for stock because my engine is stock) The computer charts where it has to pull or add fuel to keep the engine happy with that table on the self learn table. Then you go in and change the VE table to try to get the self learn table to read +/- 2-5% (per strangers on the internet because there is no available official documentation on how to do this)

And then a bunch of other tables pull data off the VE table on how to operate everything else. People just slap it on thinking it is self learning and get upset when it isn't exactly right because it only controls the A/F ratio but everything else is still pulling off the untouched VE table. And it really isn't their fault because that is how they are marketed. From what I gather most of these TBI kits that are marketed as "self learning" are similar. Really a professional tune is ideal... but since I was cross shopping Megasquirt among other things I wanna try it myself first.

My initial self learn table looked like this:

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

I just drove it to town twice, you can see it is pretty much just nailing cruise RPM pretty hard (1500-2500rpm) .29 is the base value, if I zero the table it says .29 everywhere so I am assuming where it says .29 it hasn't been there to try to change anything yet.

I did some messing around and with a couple way too short drives I have it reading better.

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

I took a bit more out of the VE Table (in green) after that with the intent to drive it to work again today to get more data than my short drives last night.

Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

Then I got in the house and saw they are talking maybe severe weather today so I poked it in the garage and didn't drive it today. Otherwise I have been driving it all week.

For initial impressions, it runs awesome once it starts. It does a little prime thing where the injectors squirt a bit before it starts. Similar to a carb accelerator pump shot before you crank on it. Now that I have the locked dizzy it seems that may be a bit heavy handed and it acts like it floods it and fights the starter. Base timing is set to 15*, I tried setting it to 10* for cranking like it was carb at startup and it did not like that at all, I set it to 20* and it helped significantly. I am trying to get the VE table more close to perfect before I actually alter the fuel prime table so I am not fighting myself on it. In the mean time if I crank before it does the prime thing it seems to start fine anyway but it is also fairly warm (70's-80's)

Fans work great, cruise works great. Overall it drives nice enough that if it was a carb and not talking to me I would drive it anywhere. As I get the VE table nailed down it will dial in other things and then I can fine tune even more things as well and it should get even better.
 
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