A-C recharge on 96 4 cylinder

[moretsky99]

76 and never did this. Didn't see any basic posts for this either.

1996 Extended Cab 4cyl. I watched an on-line video. Seems straightforward, but wanted to check here.
I know over the years recharging stuff has changed.

What is the least expensive, current authorized stuff I can use? Truck a-c was doing great, but I rarely use either the truck nor the a-c. Figure it's just about time as I've got no a-c now.

Thanks!!!

 

[franklin2]

Look under the hood. Somewhere on the radiator support or somewhere else there should be a sticker telling you what type of refrigerant to use. I want to say by 96 they had changed to r134a, but you need to make sure. You can't willy-nilly put anything in there.

A few years earlier they used r12. If your label happens to spell out r12, then you will have to buy a conversion kit and convert it over to r134a.

 

[moretsky99]

Thanks. What's involved in with conversion kit?

 

[Terrys87]

My truck, 88 Ranger, was R 12. Good luck getting any R12 today and if you do it is expensive. The conversion kit is less than $10 if I recall correctly. It is just some fittings for the refrigerant hoses to your compressor, got mine at Orielly. I replaced everything in my ac system minus the large hoses. Other than compressor, it really not too expensive. You can guess at how much to add by when it starts cooling but you really should have an ac shop to vacuum check for leaks and add proper amount. I think they have to add a certain type of oil for the system.

 

[moretsky99]

My truck, 88 Ranger, was R 12. Good luck getting any R12 today and if you do it is expensive. The conversion kit is less than $10 if I recall correctly. It is just some fittings for the refrigerant hoses to your compressor, got mine at Orielly. I replaced everything in my ac system minus the large hoses. Other than compressor, it really not too expensive. You can guess at how much to add by when it starts cooling but you really should have an ac shop to vacuum check for leaks and add proper amount. I think they have to add a certain type of oil for the system.

Thanks. I'll check on this kit. Wonder if my low-priced alternative has it... RockAuto.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

R134a started in '94, right?

Go to Autozone. Grab a can of R134a with a hose. Don't get R1234yf, which is right next to it. Put it on the port by the HVAC box and follow the directions.

Bear in mind, refrigerant isn't consumed running the A/C. It needs a charge because it leaked out. If the leak is super small, or only when a line flexes a certain way, you could be fine this summer. Or, it could all leak right back out again, and you'll have to actually fix wherever it's leaking from.

 

[superj]

I use the green propane cannisters from walmart since propane is also a refrigerant snd has an r number.

The molecules are large, like r12, so it doesnt lose pressure over time, like r134. It also cools very well at idle.

 

[RobbieD]

R134a started in '94, right?

Go to Autozone. Grab a can of R134a with a hose. Don't get R1234yf, which is right next to it. Put it on the port by the HVAC box and follow the directions.

Bear in mind, refrigerant isn't consumed running the A/C. It needs a charge because it leaked out. If the leak is super small, or only when a line flexes a certain way, you could be fine this summer. Or, it could all leak right back out again, and you'll have to actually fix wherever it's leaking from.

Yes; '94 changed to R134a.

Getting a can of 134a with a hose is exactly whet I'd do on this one.

It may puke out when you charge it. That'll show you what broke, and needs fixing.

It may blow cool just fine for this summer. With a slow leak, you need a refrigerant detector, or plan on replacing most or all of the AC components.

It may do fine for several more years.

Bottom line, I'd start with the DIY can, and go from there.

 

[moretsky99]

I use the green propane cannisters from walmart since propane is also a refrigerant snd has an r number.

The molecules are large, like r12, so it doesnt lose pressure over time, like r134. It also cools very well at idle.

What do you use for hoses to get the stuff into the system on the truck?

 

[superj]

Inhad to get some 134 hoses and cut the ends and use some fittings that fit the propane canister. Then i used hole clamps with brass fittings to put it all together.

 

[franklin2]

What do you use for hoses to get the stuff into the system on the truck?

Please look and see what type of refrigerant your truck takes. You do not want to use propane if it takes r134a from the factory. There are certain rules you have to follow when working on the A/C system to be successful.

 

[Brain75]

I'm going to actually be the voice of dissent here... R-290 or as it is commonly known propane is one of the earliest refrigerants, it was abandon not because it harms the ozone but because it is explosive and poor performing. And when I say abandon that is "mostly" abandoned, it is still in use in a few things today. Another refrigerant (isobutane/ R-600a) is also flamable/explosive... Mostly any old automotive tech isn't going to expect either so the possibility exists someone could get hurt. I would argue just put a big ole ass sticker that says "Warning R-290 FLAMMABLE" and you are good to go, not like our vehicles don't have worse chemicals in em. R-290 is seeing a slight comeback because it is considered to be low global warming... direct quote from a trade article: "Today, R-290 is used as a low-global warming potential (GWP) replacement for refrigerants R-22, R-404, & R-134a for certain applications. "

just don't expect stiff nipples out of it, when I say poor performing I mean it blows meh cool air - 45 degree kinda thing, not any 32 degree nipple stiffener.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

I have at least two fridges running propane as refrigerant right now. Believe it or not, the very first few google results on the subject are about propane basically working in place of R134a, but you have to halve the charge amount and possibly change out the orifice tube.

Propane isn't used in vehicles because there are too many things that can throw sparks nearby. 1234yf is flammable too, but it's "mildly" flammable (and runs at slightly lower pressures). Propane is "extremely" flammable.

 

[Brain75]

I would also add that most all the petro based (propane/isobutane/etc) are hard on rubber seals - so might cause it to leak worse when it starts eating up the seals. and of course oils used are probably different - that I don't know.

 

[superj]

It has worked well in jeeps and bmws for me. 32-35 degrees at the vent on all 3 bmws and two jeeps i used it in so it can easily get cold.

Its just a thought though, if your system calls for r12 and you dont want to pay that cost. R134 is easily accessible, though prices have been climbing on it but i think its still not terribly priced.