99 ranger, 00 explorer 5.0 swap no ignition at radio

[Spiffy-Fish]

So my project is a 99 XLT ranger that had the 3.0 v6 rear wheel drive automatic. My donor vehicle is a 2000 Ford explorer XLT with 5.0 all-wheel drive automatic. Final version will be manual rear wheel drive.

I have swapped over the overhead console and mirror lights to the ranger and spliced into the speed sensor and light circuit by the kick panel. The Diming and ignition trigger circuit was spliced in at the radio.
I don't think that's part of the issue but just in case I figured it was worth mentioning.

The dash wiring is original to the ranger but the steering column with the automatic shifter removed came from the explorer. I also already switched out pats and the power door lock modules. My key fob from the explorer do unlock, lock doors, triggered alarm and key in ignition disarmed it.

The engine wiring harness which includes the connection to the computer is not connected so I don't know if that's the issue but I don't see why it would be with the other things working like window motors.

I have 12 volt consistent power at the radio. I do not get the trigger signal for ignition at the radio. I removed the connector before my splice and tested it and I still do not have the trigger signal.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

the engine is going in today, maybe ill get far enough to test if the engine harness and PCM missing was the issue for my radio trigger.

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

alright i have the ignition signal at the radio with the engine harness in place and plugged in. i dont get any dash lights when i turn the key to "run" without starting it. my sct x4 tuner will not read the computer when in "run" also.


any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Ranger850]

@19Walt93 ?
@RonD
@MikeD.

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

i do have the impact cutoff switch unpluged so the fuel pump does not turn on. i thought that it only kills the fuel pump relay or power feed. does this switch do more than just the fuel pump?

 

[RonD]

No, inertia switch is just for fuel pump

Black/pink stripe wire at the radio from cab fuse 20 is key on(RUN) radio power
The Red/black wire is ONLY to MUTE the radio when key is in START, so only has 12v from fuse 28 when key is in START position
Light green/purple wire at radio has 12v all the time to hold clock and presets when key is off, fuse 29

Dash warning lights use fuses 11, 15 and 25

Once you have dash warning lights work make sure CEL(check engine light) comes on with key on
If so then PCM(computer) has booted up and OBD reader should be able to "talk" with it
OBD reader should power up either way, if not then check Cigar Lighter fuse 17, it also powers OBD port

If CEL is not coming on the PCM relay in engine fuse box is not activating, it power up the PCM and other engine systems

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

So I appreciate the feedback but all fuses have checked out to be good I can replace relays as I have a bunch of extra ones from old vehicles but it sounds like the relay would only affect the cel. I have no other lights on my dash other than the light to light up the gauges and the theft light flashing slowly.



On a side question is there a trick to the harness connection between the chassis and the engine. my harness seems to be short and I have to stretch it to make it connect. Also had to reroute the wires for the wiper motor to make the harness stretch.

 

[RonD]

Do these fuses in the cab have power with key on?

They get it from a single wire and fuse in engine bay, fuse 1 50amp

Yellow wire from fuse 1 to ignition switch, then with key on ignition switch sends out the 12volts to the "key on" fuses in the cab fuse box

There are 4 separate wires from ignition switch to the cab fuse box, each powers 2 to 4 different "key on" fuses

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

So I've got 12 volts at fuse number one but with the key on I have nothing at 11 and 15. 17 and 25 have 12v

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

All right so I feel pretty stupid we can start making fun of me and laugh about it. I did not tighten the ignition connector down when I installed the steering column so I got my dash lights and so far everything seems to be good to go

 

[RonD]

Good stuff

thanks for posting the fix
I wish I could say I haven't overlooked things like that before, but you are NOT ALONE

 

[don4331]

On a side question is there a trick to the harness connection between the chassis and the engine. my harness seems to be short and I have to stretch it to make it connect. Also had to reroute the wires for the wiper motor to make the harness stretch.

Yes, the connection between the cab (not really chassis) and engine is a...snug...fit. A number of individuals historically added a 6" extension to the wires, others had already done a 3" body life which both gave more room for the install and resolve the harness length issue.

 

[Spiffy-Fish]

Yes, the connection between the cab (not really chassis) and engine is a...snug...fit. A number of individuals historically added a 6" extension to the wires, others had already done a 3" body life which both gave more room for the install and resolve the harness length issue.

So is there a place that sells this 6-in extension or am I going to have to go to the junkyard and get spare connectors and splice them together to make my own extension?

 

[don4331]

Doesn't need to a 5.0 Explorer, just something with enough wires. I probably started with the one from my 3.0 and adjusted appropriately.

Cut 4" off either side of an existing engine and cab connector, disconnected the connector,connected the wires adding any extra wires per the EVTM and voila a 6" extension.

 

[fastpakr]

It really would be convenient if there was a straight through M/F extension for that connector. I've had the same frustration with how tight it can be getting it hooked back up.