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94 mazda b2300


Awesome!! Thanks for the info.

Right now i have 3.50 gears or something like that, can't remember. The rear end is out of a 01 B2300, Spider gears blew up on me awhile back going 25 mph.

There is a rear end with 3.73 LS at pick n pull that i might pick up this weekend. I'm going to start with those, and if i feel like it needs more gearing, then i will go with 4.10's.

What size tires will you be running? 3.73's should be great with 30-31's

4.10's would be better for power but you'd lose some highway cruising speed due to high rpm's and wasted fuel.
 
What size tires will you be running? 3.73's should be great with 30-31's

4.10's would be better for power but you'd lose some highway cruising speed due to high rpm's and wasted fuel.

I have 30's on it right now, and with the 2.3, it was a gutless pig. Eventully going with 33's once i get long travel suspension under it. But will be running 31's until then.

I have some stockers, 27's I think, going to burn those up once i get the 4.0 dialed in!:icon_hornsup:
 
Well it runs:yahoo: I do have one issue, it has a high idle, Around 22-2300 RPM's. I checked all my connections to include vacuum.:icon_confused::icon_confused: Any suggestions?
 
So i had to stop working on it and rush to the hospital, I had my first kid!!! Owen is his name and he came in at just under 7 lbs. So work stopped, but today i will be back on it and figure out my high idle issue. Once i figure that out, then i can take it on a test drive!!!! I'll post an update tonight.
 
Congratulations!!!!

:icon_thumby:
 
So I finally got back to working on it, a couple of things, It idles at 22-2300 rpm still until i disconnect the IAC, then it idles at 1100 rpm. Also i can fire it up on a cold start and it will run, but if i turn it off, it won't start back up, even if i prime the fuel lines.

I was able to take it for a very short drive, and it performed perfectly. Just trying to figure out these issues.
 
Maybe bad IAC?? And possible bad temp sender to computer for the cold start issue?? Also are you sure your gerring fuel after you shut it down?? Maybe computer is running too short of pulse width so fire up after initial cold fire?? Interesting tho

Sent while eating tacos
 
Maybe bad IAC?? And possible bad temp sender to computer for the cold start issue?? Also are you sure your gerring fuel after you shut it down?? Maybe computer is running too short of pulse width so fire up after initial cold fire?? Interesting tho

Sent while eating tacos

Picking up a IAC today, but won't be able to install it until next week. Going out of town after work. I'm definitly getting fuel, while i crank it i can smell it. Going to go ahead and do plugs and wires. Don't know the condition of them.
 
Replaced the IAC, plugs, wires and air temp sensor. Pulled the coolant temp sensor from my 2.3 cause i wasn't able to get a new one and had the same results. so i decided to check the oil and i smelled fuel in it and was able to light the dipstick on fire. so i believe i have a stuck open injector or a bad Fuel pressure regulator. going to do some test today after work. But I really think i'm close to fixing the issue, only bad part is that i have to get new oil again. Good thing royal purple is on sale at Napa for $8 a quart.

What do you guys think?
 
Sounds like you are on the right track.

Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if it smells like fuel. You can also take that line off while the truck is running and check if you can see fuel being sucked out by putting it really close to the port on the regulator.

There are a number of ways to check if injectors are leaking. Depends on if you want to pull the fuel rail out or not.
 
Sounds like you are on the right track.

Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if it smells like fuel. You can also take that line off while the truck is running and check if you can see fuel being sucked out by putting it really close to the port on the regulator.

There are a number of ways to check if injectors are leaking. Depends on if you want to pull the fuel rail out or not.

I plan on trying that for the FPR. THANKS.

I was going to test the injectors by pulling the plugs and having a friend turn ignition on and use a piece of tube to here for a leaking injector.

if you have other ways to test them, i'm all ears to any suggestions.
 
So I tried the FPR vacuum test and all is well, doesn't smell like fuel and it's not sucking fuel. I pulled the upper intake manifold and put my meter to each injector and all 6 were between 16.0-16.2 ohm's, so i believe the injector's are fine. I'm at a loss at this point. Going to do a compression test and a leak down test.

Any suggestions?
 
There are a number of ways to check if injectors are leaking. Depends on if you want to pull the fuel rail out or not.

Do tell, I have the upper intake manifold off and it"s only 6 bolts and a couple of fuel lines to get the rail off.
 
cheap and dirty way to test injectors.

do this outside, with plenty of ventilation!!!!!
remove injector.
obtain constant supply of air, about 65 psi. will need a shutoff valve in the exit line.
using whatever fittings are necessary attach the air hose to the injector, a quick coupler works great.
keep injector upright, pour some gas ,or something safer like rubbing alcohol, into the injector, attach air line and pressurize.
watch for leaks.
hit the connector with very short bursts of 12 volts to spray the gas out.

helpful hint: make the sparks at the remote power source, not at the injector.
keep the air line positioned so the gas won't run downhill back into the hose.
if you use gas, the spray will be very flammable, no "hey Joe, hold my beer" stunts, OK?
 

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