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89 piece of s$%t


The fuel pressure regulator is supposed to hold pressure when not in use as well. Having to cycle the pump 3 times is not abnormal for a system that has lost the pressure charge.
 
you can buy 3 different brands of fuel pumps at napa.been selling bosch pumps for years with no problems.advance sells airtex[napa does also] and they have more warranty issues than others.if you have an airtex congrats you got a good one. i should have ordered the bosch originally but was impatient and bought the airtex.anyway pulled the line off the fuel pump and cycled the key only got a burst of gas about an inch out and definitely not alot of psi.replacing the pump tomorrow.as far as the regulator it has been replaced twice during this process
 
as far as napa being better than advance on some things they are.we had alot less warranty issues on electrical and fuel parts at napa than advance down the road.some things are exactly the same and some are better at different stores.after working for napa for 6 years and dealing with advance for 20 years i try to buy mostly napa
 
well guess you have an intermittent pump then. That is difficult to find. Hope that's it.
 
thanks.i will pick up the bosch pump tomorrow and let you know what happens:icon_thumby:
 
replaced pump.way better pressure coming out at pump.still lost pressure after shutting engine off.replaced fuel pressure regulator[thought i had replaced it but apparently not]. now pressure goes to 40 psi and holds after shuttin engine off:yahoo:BUT engine still misses severely on acceleration,spark knocks, tachometer bounces whn this happens,and the antilock light comes on:dunno:thanks for all the help and keep the ideas coming
 
So, have you tried to find when and where it misses? Is it with a extreme load ? in all gears? at all RPMs? Can you make it miss when the truck still and revving the engine? If so, that opens up some test possibilities.
 
maybe i missed it but i dont think this has been covered... have you checked compression and timing after doing the head gasket? very likely you either have the cam off a tooth or the aux sprocket off a tooth. even if both are right on, the ignition timing still needs to be set after a timing belt or head gasket change. make sure you pull the spout and set to 10* advance. forgive me if this seems too easy, but like i said i didnt see anybody mention this yet...
 
with the truck on jackstands i can drive it thru all 5 gears and it never misses one bit.as soon as i try to drive down the road it runs like shit.so it idles perfect,runs fine when in the air,but misses and spark knocks when you put the load of the truck on it. as far as the timing it is dead on.compression is good after head gasket.vacuum readings are perfect at idle and no detection of any vacuum leaks
 
Yes and no, if it thinks the EGR is opening it will lean out momentarily, but the O2 sensor will see it and fix it almost immediately. If it is stuck open, it wont miss, it will just run like poo all the time.
 
damn thought i had it.the connector for the crank sensor was bad.fixed it.same problem. checked the egr,vacuum lines, etc all working as it should.did notice that now in neutral if you rev it it starts missing at @3000 rpm and will not rev past 3200 rpm.what is the possibility that the catalytic converter is plugged and causing the engine to choke out?
 
Yes a clogged cat will restrict flow and keep rpms low. But now that it misses when its still, connect a timing light to the plugs. Go one at a time and see if you see the miss in the light. Shine the light at the hood. When the engine is missing, is the light intermittent? Do this for each plug. It will tell you if the miss is electrical.
 
its not the converter.pulled it off and it is good so thats not the problem.i will try the timing light on the plugs hopefully sunday.
 
well i fixed the truck.believe it or not it was the clutch.broke springs on the disc and a severely corroded release bearing.truck runs perfect now:yahoo::yahoo:
 

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