87 2.3 help (4 pics)

[Mark_88]

I just used the wiring that was there...this started out as a 2.0 carbed engine...similar but not necessarily the same as the 2.3 setup...but it sounds like yours started as a 2.0 also...

my carb only had two connection wires...one for the choke and one for a connector on the carb near the front (something like yours) and they were both already there...there was a third wire but I couldn't find a connector for it on the carb so I just terminated it and wrapped it in electrical tape...

Only thing I had to do was was when I replaced the base plate of the distributor due to a faulty ground wire I also changed the clip from the old stock clip to a trailer connector because they are easier to pull apart and the old one simply crumbled in my hand when I tried to disconnect it...

I will see if I can get some more pics of the business side of the truck...the one I posted of the carb is actually from my first motor...not much different now except there is no EGR...

 

[86bigred]

what does that second wire on the carb do.i've have asked on many sites but i have not got any answers.is this thing needed.thanks

 

[Mark_88]

what does that second wire on the carb do.i've have asked on many sites but i have not got any answers.is this thing needed.thanks

Good question, but I have no idea...

It connects to what looks like a switch on the carb that leads to the purge cannister on my truck...so I'd imagine it is some sort of trigger to open a valve to let any excess gas to move away from the carb...and I know mine is working to some degree because I put a clear plastic tube on it to see if there is any gas going through the tube...you can't tell with the black plastic tube unless you actually disconnect it...the clear plastic tube allows me to see something at least, and there is a bit of fuel going into the cannister...

I would imagine that on carbs that do not have a return fuel line to the tank this works in a similar fashion...but, again, I really don't know...

 

[kmack]

so i finished putting the carb back together with the kit and it wont start

as soon as i think its about to run, or i hit the acellerator to the floor it cuts out hard. i took a video but i dont know how to upload it.

 

[Mark_88]

Crap, eh!

Does it have a choke? If you have an automatic or manual choke, try closing the butterfly and hold it closed with a pair of vice grips...pump the gas once or twice only...and crank it...if it doesn't start that way, check again for any vac hoses that are not connected and plug them up...and try again...

 

[kmack]

i took a video, im going to attempt to post it. but i tried starting with everything connected i could, and without everthing connected. i tried pouring gas into the top and not much happened.

so the way i'd explain what happens in words, would be the engine starting to crank and when its about to pickup and run on its own, something shuts down everything completely and theres a violent jolt. the truck did run once for about 10 seconds extremely low rpm and then died. my battery is now dead and i checked my gas level using a hose in the tank and blowing. there was gas.

 

[Mark_88]

OK, but did you try to manually choke the carb?

My truck used to start without the choke...but I had someone clean it out and do a minor rebuild and it simply will NOT start now without the choke on...

Once you get the battery charged or get a boost, take off the breather if it is on, and close the butterfly on the carb and hold it closed with something...I used vice grips...and try to start it...do not dump gas down the carb...use some quick start if you've got it, but avoid dumping gas down because you could flood it and then it simply won't start until the gas evaporates...

Mine has done some weird stuff in the process of trying to get it started too...but the sudden jolt/shut down could be your timing or something more serious...like a jammed connecting rod (meaning it is broken internally)...

 

[kmack]

in this picture i couldn't find the original "pump disc ball weight" and i cut a peice of that loop end screw sitting right above the carb and dropped it in. it looked the same size and i thought it would do the same type of job.





this looks too close for comfort. and there is nothing to connect either of the two electric contraptions on the carb to anything in the engine compartment.



i'm missing the bumper screw that hits the electric gizmo but i dont think it was on there in the first place.

 

[kmack]

i wont be back to the truck untill the weekend. its a real weekend project. i have school 5 days of the week 2 hours away. i'm working on posting a sound recording.

 

[kmack]

http://www.supload.com/sound_confirm.php?get=97717236.wav

so i hope this works. the first is me trying to start it. clutch pressed down but not on the gas. then i hit the gas and as soon as i do that it jolts and stops immediately. the second time i turn the key, i slowly apply the accellerator. it then cuts out hard and the engine shakes good. the motor cranks. one time it turned over and ran for 10 seconds really slowly. i'll try holding the butterfly shut. do you have to do that everytime you start up?

 

[kmack]

so i guess i got the plug wires mixed up at one point. so i just swaped em and it runs better than ever. but it still pumps a bit of smoke out of the dipstick hole. the whole engine seems to get much hotter than it should very fast. i think im going to change the oil next, and then adjust the idle.

right now when i hit the gas, it idles very high. stays high. then i tap it, and it drops and stays down for as long as i want. then i tap it or use the gas, and it stays high. so i'm guessing that on the carb, one of the arms with steps on it just keeps going back and forth from a high step to a low step. but if this truck can drive without over heating the i think it will be good enough for me.

it like 30 degrees and the truck, and my tools are almost too hot to hold onto. i use white sheets to keep things at a touchable temperature. so i think i might need a new rad... i got a brand new one in my commanche and it looks about 3 times thicker and 2 times wider than the one in the ranger!

 

[kmack]

and does anyone have a cheap fix for exaust? mine is rusted out about 2 or 3 feet after the cat. i want to eliminate the cat, then run a strait pipe all the way. there is a scrap yard that i can find old stuff at. i could probably even find an old muffler. my main issue is the insanely rusted bolts.

 

[Mark_88]

Get the shorty header from a 93 - 97 Ranger or B2300 and put that on...then run your cat or put a new one on (or just leave it off if you don't have E-test) and then the muffler...

As far as smoke out the dipstick goes...did you check the PCV valve and the cannister on the block? These can gum up and cause excess internal pressure (sort of like blow-by) that can cause smoke (and oil) to push out the dipstick tube...cleaning up the passages can help reduce this problem...as well as putting the vent on the valve cover...

 

[kmack]

i will have to check that this weekend! i completely removed a group of vacuum hoses that were connected to the passenger fender area, pictured above somewhere, the red/black combo. i guess with some headers, i will clean the passenger's side up nice. i happened to get a batter from my neighbour, and have to pay him back for it. its an orbital gel cell or something with 950 cranking amps and 750 cold cranking amps. seems pretty good. he told me to give him what is fair so thats cool of him. he is a mechanic and has been helping me out.

he scared me when he said "what damage youve done is done" so i am not sure how much irreversible damage i've done! i'm going to take some pictures and another sound clip this weekend i think.

 

[scotts90ranger]

unless a cat is clogged, and undersized for it's application, it's not a real restriction.

I'm still running the stock cat with my turbo engine and it goes a lot faster than it did naturally aspirated... I say leave it on.

about 6 to 8 years ago, when my tail pipe rusted off the first time I went to Napa and it was under $20 for a direct replacement tail pipe, went to Car Quest and got a $22 stock replacement muffler (looking inside was better than the $15 turbo muffler I had before that lasted a whopping 2 years). Exhaust can be done cheaply... and when I redo mine (to get rid of the undersized cat and hacked up parts) I am going to run a cheapy universal cat and a thrush or something, and use the free larger tailpipe I got...