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77 LTD II


Once you have the convertor nuts off, push the studs through the flex plate as far as you can- they won't go all the way through- and pull the engine just like you would with a manual trans. If the trans is going to stay, now's the time to replace the front seal. The convertor has a drain plug so you won't get an ATF shower when you pull it.
 
Curts engine really needs to spend a few sets of tires in this thing..
 
You have about 14 acres in that engine bay compared to the 2 square feet of a V8 Explorer that I was just working on... pulling that will be simple comparatively other than the rust issues... I pulled the starter, used that hole to take out the converter nuts, rotated through the inspection hole with a prybar to ring gear teeth... while the engine was out I supported the front of the trans with a scissor style trans jack (the only trans jack I have, and it's tall...) then I FOUGHT to get the engine out, pulled one exhaust manifold and both accessory brackets and I think water pump...
 
I did a 64 Impala in about 75, had a 283 and and Ultraglide transmission, heavy two speed.

Propped three 10 or 12 ft poles together and chained them up, just about 50 ft from where I now sit.
It balanced out just easy as pie, not level, more like an airplane taking off steep.
I swapped the worn 283 with a 230 or 235, not positive which, but it went back as easy as pie too

It tilted into the motor cavity and pulled on in easy to, it balanced out well on my deal
 
..i usually just make the front removable.
 
You have about 14 acres in that engine bay compared to the 2 square feet of a V8 Explorer that I was just working on... pulling that will be simple comparatively other than the rust issues... I pulled the starter, used that hole to take out the converter nuts, rotated through the inspection hole with a prybar to ring gear teeth... while the engine was out I supported the front of the trans with a scissor style trans jack (the only trans jack I have, and it's tall...) then I FOUGHT to get the engine out, pulled one exhaust manifold and both accessory brackets and I think water pump...
Yeah room is for sure not an issue. You can pretty easy even get at a few bell bolts from under the hood lol.

Once i get the thing out whats a good way to go about getting the busted bolt out? I imagine i could heat it a bit and try an easy out but last thing i wanna do is snap that off. Broken bolt extraction has never been strong suit of mine lol.

Couldnt believe how easy it snapped. Granted im sure rust played atleast a little part in it...that side of the engine didnt have as much oil coverage :)
 
I did a 64 Impala in about 75, had a 283 and and Ultraglide transmission, heavy two speed.


The glide is like... gms LIGHTEST transmission, barely over 100lbs 😋
 
Mine still had both qts of oil in it!
 
Yeah room is for sure not an issue. You can pretty easy even get at a few bell bolts from under the hood lol.

Once i get the thing out whats a good way to go about getting the busted bolt out? I imagine i could heat it a bit and try an easy out but last thing i wanna do is snap that off. Broken bolt extraction has never been strong suit of mine lol.

Couldnt believe how easy it snapped. Granted im sure rust played atleast a little part in it...that side of the engine didnt have as much oil coverage :)

I now have a proper MIG welder even with shielding gas so when I rebuilt the 5L I welded nuts to the stubs of the two bolts I had to remove but first on the motor mount bolt I had the engine upside down, heated that area, applied some PB Blaster, repeated a few times then with a punch hammered down a bit to try to get it moving around and accepting some oil then welded a nut on...
 
I now have a proper MIG welder even with shielding gas so when I rebuilt the 5L I welded nuts to the stubs of the two bolts I had to remove but first on the motor mount bolt I had the engine upside down, heated that area, applied some PB Blaster, repeated a few times then with a punch hammered down a bit to try to get it moving around and accepting some oil then welded a nut on...
I dont have a MIG,..and i cant weld worth a shit.

Im gonna try the punch, maybe i can get it up and loose enough to get some vice grips on it.
 
I dont have a MIG,..and i cant weld worth a shit.

Im gonna try the punch, maybe i can get it up and loose enough to get some vice grips on it.

Do you have a propane torch? You can heat the thing up before hand. Even better if you get a MAP gas cylinder. They burn hotter.
 
Do you have a propane torch? You can heat the thing up before hand. Even better if you get a MAP gas cylinder. They burn hotter.
I got a MAP. The other bolts turned out so easy i figured this one would too so i didnt bother lolt
 
Well since i know yall been waiting in hot anticipation i have an update...

Went out today and did this...

20230924_154545.jpg
20230924_154553.jpg


I left the manifolds in car. The studs are absolutly junk anyways...so i knew it would be a matter of snappage anyhow. I had the manifolds off when this all started 20 years ago so i pulled them off the engine instead...those came off like a breeze.

Now i can get in there with a cut off wheel and just cut the studs and pull the manifolds.

Something odd though....there were only 3 nuts on the converter studs...not sure if someone messed up at the factory or this isnt tke first time its been apart.

Now next step is to degrease the motor good, load it up and haul it to my house and put in my shed where i can dick with it over the winter and hopefully have it ready to install next spring.

Im still in the air about a full on rebuild. I was just gonna clean it up, regasket it, get the heads checked, etc etc.

Biggest hang up is i dont wanna spend shitloads of money on it...the engine ran good before though. Whats machine shop work these days?

To be continued...
 

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