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351 or 302 mods for Tri-y headers for AOD


kansastj

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
13
Transmission
Automatic
My welds arent near perfect but good enough for the life span of these $99 eBay stainless try-y headers for a 65-66 Mustang. I’m building a 351 AOD 2WD Sport Ranger and was hopeful the wider 351 would allow the headers to clear. It did not. Starter fits fine, the collector hit the transmission at the trans pan (passenger) and the header tube rubbed the (driver) gear selector shaft.

l had to slight dent the driver side were the AOD gear selector is. That was easy. Used a large impact socket and my vice. Passenger side had to be cut with a 4” angle grinder, pie cut, cleaned up and I welded it with Amazon flux core stainless on my 110v welder. I know haters gonna hate but that’s the only welder I’ve got and for the cost of the headers I’m not sending them out. I’m happy with the results.

Running GT40’s on stock rebuilt 351 and have an 8.8 w/ limited slip already installed in the Ranger with 3.73’s. V8 swap in a flare side 2002 2wd this summer. Posting for others who may do the same.
 

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Who cares if the welds aren't perfect. No hate here.
Those look just like the set I got off eBay to put 351W/4R70W into my '73 F100. I bolted them to the engine on the stand and saw that they were probably going to interfere with the transmission. (I don't have the transmission to bolt up yet.) I was planning to heat up that header and try bending it out a little.
 
Please post photos of the drivers side - hoping to get clarity on how much interference there will be related to the front driveshaft. I know everyone says its impossible, but I would love to see photos of the driver side.
 
Looks nice to me. Will a 351 fit in a 2002 Ranger?
 
Looks nice to me. Will a 351 fit in a 2002 Ranger?
Depends how you define "fit". It took some fabrication but the 351 fits in my 93 just fine. The heater box was missing when I got it so I used a Vintage Air street rod HVAC system to keep the flat firewall. If he can modify those tri-y's, I'll bet
R eng view.JPG
he can handle it.
 
@19Walt93 - can you show us the photo of the steering shaft side? That is usually a big issue for a 351 block in a Ranger.
 
@19Walt93 - can you show us the photo of the steering shaft side? That is usually a big issue for a 351 block in a Ranger.
Sure. I had to remove the rag joint and replace it with a Borgeson u joint to clear the left side manifold, other wise there's plenty of clearance. The picture shows the rag joint still in place and real close to the manifold.
lf eng view.JPG
 
So help me out, is that a 351 Windsor or 351 Cleveland?
 
That is a Windsor
 
So help me out, is that a 351 Windsor or 351 Cleveland?
It's a roller cam 351 Windsor out of a 95 F150. I like the Windsor family better, plus I owned this one.
Clevelands were only built from 1970 through 1974. A Cleveland with a 4 barrel carb got huge intake and exhaust ports that killed bottom end torque, 2 barrel Clevelands got more reasonable sized ports with huge, compression killing chambers. Australia used the Clevelands for a lot longer and developed heads with small chambers and 2 barrel style ports.
I will say that a high compression Cleveland has a great exhaust sound through stock Boss or turbo mufflers, though
 
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Just wondered. I was thinking the 351 Cleveland was wider than the Windsor and, hence, more difficult to fit in a Ranger.
 
The width is about the same, but the Cleveland has less choices for oil pans and headers, so its more challenging from that standpoint.
 
Drivers side pics. Have a 1/4” of clearance.
 

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Just wondered. I was thinking the 351 Cleveland was wider than the Windsor and, hence, more difficult to fit in a Ranger.
I think you're right.
 
Drivers side pics. Have a 1/4” of clearance.
I'd dimple the pipe to get a little more clearance, just to be on the safe side.
I modified an obsolete set of Dynomax headers designed for automatic cars to fit on my 5 speed Mustang II, including trimming the end of my clutch fork and pie cutting the cover. Then I had the headers ceramic coated before installing them. One header tube was about 1/4" from the clutch fork cover and the heat baked the grease off the end of the cable. Every time I stepped on the clutch it squeaked.
 

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