2010 2wd ranger lift, HELP!

[slater50]

@slater50 what about suspension/shock down travel? As far as I've read if you keep the OEM (performance) shocks one won't be able to lift the truck using a suspension lift without losing shock downtravel so the truck would be a brick on the road.

Please, provide a feedback about that and/or let me know which shocks you installed along the larger spindle you showed in the pictures (I'm guessing it's a larger one lol).

I bought KYB Gas-a-Just shocks and the following suspension lift kit:

Amazon.com: maXpeedingrods 3" Front & 2" Rear Lift Kit for Ford Ranger 2WD 1998-2011 | Suspension Rear Lift Shackle & Spacers : Automotive

Buy maXpeedingrods 3" Front & 2" Rear Lift Kit for Ford Ranger 2WD 1998-2011 | Suspension Rear Lift Shackle & Spacers: Body & Suspension Lift Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

And I immediately figured out that I had f***ed up because I'd have zero downtravel on the KYB shocks if I lifted the truck using a suspension lift kit instead of a body lift kit.

As I stated, I installed a spindle lift, no longer shock needed as keeps the stock geometry but I did also install new Wulf shocks to get some ride quality improvement which I think did make it less bouncy...
You did a spacer lift & suspension wasnt my thing at work, im assuming you need a longer shock....
Thats the crappy thing about spacer lift especially 3"'s you loses down travel.
Were you able to get the kya shock installed without compressing the suspension?
Im guessing not?
I also wouldnt have went with that amazon kit, good luck getting some live support which sounds like you need.
Heres the kit I went with:
https://wulfsuspensions.com/product...1-2011-ford-ranger-2wd-coil-spring-suspension

I also personally wouldnt touch the back of the truck, dont lift it, its plenty high enough for larger tires.

Alot of all the Tik Tok ranger kids re running these Torch 3" spacer lift, you have live support & you can ask the what length shock to run....

Its nature of the beast to lose down travel with that spacer lift, pretty sure you need a longer shock but either way, you will lose down travel.

torch spacer 3"
https://torchoffroad.com/products/1...60499&pr_ref_pid=6619388739756&pr_seq=uniform

 

[slater50]

Pardon Our Interruption

my guess too, he didnt get longer shocks....
That being said, the extensions probably aren't the best way about it vs should have ordered the correct length shocks to begin with.

 

[andmore]

As I stated, I installed a spindle lift, no longer shock needed as keeps the stock geometry but I did also install new Wulf shocks to get some ride quality improvement which I think did make it less bouncy...
You did a spacer lift & suspension wasnt my thing at work, im assuming you need a longer shock....
Thats the crappy thing about spacer lift especially 3"'s you loses down travel.
Were you able to get the kya shock installed without compressing the suspension?
Im guessing not?
I also wouldnt have went with that amazon kit, good luck getting some live support which sounds like you need.
Heres the kit I went with:
https://wulfsuspensions.com/product...1-2011-ford-ranger-2wd-coil-spring-suspension

I also personally wouldnt touch the back of the truck, dont lift it, its plenty high enough for larger tires.

Alot of all the Tik Tok ranger kids re running these Torch 3" spacer lift, you have live support & you can ask the what length shock to run....

Its nature of the beast to lose down travel with that spacer lift, pretty sure you need a longer shock but either way, you will lose down travel.

torch spacer 3"
https://torchoffroad.com/products/1...60499&pr_ref_pid=6619388739756&pr_seq=uniform

yup, you're right. I had to compress the coil spring in order to put the upper nut onto the KYB shock.

I feel so dumb, I asked you about the shock stuff before I understood how spindles would work. I just watched a video about it works and realized that is the best way to go, specially now that you provided the details about what to do in order to make traction-control/advancedtrac to work.

Thank you so much for your feedback and the info you shared on this topic!

 

[slater50]

So got some wulf front & rear shocks, should I get some shaft boots for them......
Already installed the front without...
Got the rears at a later date, yesterday & noticed they didnt have boots...
Its a pavement princess but does look better with...

 

[slater50]

 

[slater50]

also seen some guys install rear shocks with shafts down instead of up like oem positioning...
I get the theory but what do majority do....

 

[SenorNoob]

That boot is to keep dirt from shewing up the seal on the shaft. That said, I just pulled 2 11 year old Rough Country front shocks today that have never had boots and still dampen just fine. I did break the stud off one taking it loose. Thought about using the other one as a steering stabilizer since it doesn't extend/retract on it's own just dampens.

 

[slater50]

That boot is to keep dirt from shewing up the seal on the shaft. That said, I just pulled 2 11 year old Rough Country front shocks today that have never had boots and still dampen just fine. I did break the stud off one taking it loose. Thought about using the other one as a steering stabilizer since it doesn't extend/retract on it's own just dampens.

I get that...
Seems like some use them, some dont...
Truck will never see dirt..
In the rear, theres another theory which is run the shocks upside down so the boots dont trap water...
Seems like theres multiple ways to do this!
Peaked under a few rangers ive seen in the neighborhood & have seen some pro-comp shocks without boots & theyre pointing shaft up top..

 

[pmmmula]

So, im in a pickle & research is inconclusive so figured maybe someone here has been there or has resources to set me straight.
Little background, been a ford engine tech for 32 years...
Bought my teen son a 2wd single cab 4cylinder ranger.
Has front coil springs & also has the dreaded traction control, has an on/off switch below the radio console.
Research ive done state lift spindles ive seen like maxitrac wont work due to the sensor....

Has anyone here successfully lifted one of these? What is the answer...
Not looking to make it a monster truck, just a little ya bro lift on the front & some 31's or 265 75 15's....

I do have some calls out & waiting for people to get back to me...
I did see on eBay "spindle esource" has a 3" coil spring but some are saying pointless without an upper control arm.

Clueless & hoping to find a solution, one way or another....
Thanks!

Yo just want to say thanks for making this post, not a lot of info about lifting these models and you helped a lot. I am about to do the same Wulf Spindle lift for my 2011 and was wondering if you had any issues with brake lines and the abs wire length/getting crushed at full lock or full drop.

 

[slater50]

Yo just want to say thanks for making this post, not a lot of info about lifting these models and you helped a lot. I am about to do the same Wulf Spindle lift for my 2011 and was wondering if you had any issues with brake lines and the abs wire length/getting crushed at full lock or full drop.

Tell me about it.....
Everyone here saying it cant be done....

Its still going strong without issues today.
I didnt relocate the brake line at all on mine as suggested in the instructions.

I would measure the depth of the sensors prior to removing them, precisely.
Maybe use a depth gauge part of a cheap digital caliper?
Thats what going to get the abs sensors working right....

I didnt take the measurement & just started shaving down the sensor blindly....
Had to go to my old work & we monitored the function of the sensors & just kept shaving them till they started reading correctly.

Getting a measurement & duplicating it on the new spindles will take the guess work out of it....

I explained all this to the owner at Wolf but im guessing it went in one ear & out the other.
Great guy, not talking xchit....

When I asked him, all he could say was I know people are making them work but dont know how....

hit me up if youre having issues.

Also takes alot of grinding on the lower control arm, you want to take that outward lip completely off,

This forum is dead when it comes to old rangers..........

 

[slater50]

again....
I not only had to shave the outer edge of the sensor on the bolt edge.
I had to shave the inside flat part so the sensor sits closer to the rotor pickup ring.
You need to measure how deep the sensor pokes out on the OEM config & copy that.

Chances are if you get a ABS light on, or ABS activation, the sensor isnt close enough.

My drivers side I nailed the first time, blindly.
The passenger side took multiple adjustments.

Thats where the ability to monitor the sensor signal using IDS came in handy.

no way to blindly do it.

 

[slater50]

If you cant get it to work, no big deal I guess.
Your abs wont work.
I wanted it to work as my kid just started driving & thats the last thing I wanted....