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2002 Mazda B3000 3.0 Would greatly appreciate advice/help (starting issues etc...)


gnosis

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Messages
14
City
USA
Vehicle Year
2002 Mazda
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Recently acquired a "Salvaged title" 2002 Mazda B3000 3.0L 2WD with 125,000 miles for $2,0000. Does this seem reasonable? Was expecting to invest $500-600 after purchase, but I've already surpassed that....
(The salvage title comes from front end damage, apparently wasn't too bad, frame looks good, though it cost me $250 to register and transfer title at DMV!)

I've been perusing these forums for a bit trying to resolve various issues with truck and decided I'd make a thread to attempt to more specifically diagnose/resolve my issues. Many thanks in advance for any advice/help, I know that already I've gotten some good tips and such just reading.

Problems:
1. Starting issue
2. Squeaking/chirping belt
3. Rattle under truck
4. Old oil and Valve Cover Gasket leak


1. Starting Issue:
First and foremost I suppose is the starting issue:
It almost never starts first try but 80-90% of the time will start second time, albeit with a bit of a struggle often (it doesn't always sound exactly the same).
I've tried turning to on/off 3-5 times (priming the pump/pressure?) and that seems to help (usually starts first try after), although it still doesn't start in an ideal manner, seems rather rough and usually still some spinning/struggling of sorts.

Things I've done (will add to this list as I try more)
-Recently replaced the starter as the mechanic was "convinced" that was it despite my skepticism, didn't work. - $200
-Replaced Fuel filter $60
-Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body (had the mechanic do it as it was only labor) - $30
-Replaced Idle air intake control valve (after replacing the starter the check engine light came on and this was the error code, thus replaced it) - $60 part did it myself
-Tried resetting the inertia switch by pushing down on red button (there was literally no give/decompression so not sure if it worked???), also tried holding it down while trying to start, neither worked.
-Checked battery at autozone, they said it was good.

Things to do/possibilities
-check ignition switch?
-check coils (multimeter) and replace spark plugs?
-check fuel pressure?

2. Squeakin/Chirping Belt:
After the vehicle has say for a while upon starting there is always a squeak/chirp coming from the timing belt area. I noticed that the upper idler pulley was wobbling and replaced it, still have a squeak. I've sprayed water on the under side of belt and it temporarily stops squeaking.

Things I've done
-Changed Upper Idler pulley that was wobbling (Even with a serpentine belt tool this was a VERY tight and thus difficult fit)

3. Rattle Under Truck:
There is a metal rattle from underbelly. Not always present, but generally when accelerating, sometimes when idle and/or when starting vehicle.
I got under vehcile and tried checking for rattle, seems like the exhaust that runs the length of truck however it's not the heat shield as suspected....Mechanic looked at it and said it must be something "inside??" Said he couldn't fix it.

4. Valve Cover Gasket and old oil on engine
There looks to be lots of old oil on the engine as well as a small amount of newer oil. Mechanic said it looked like they did the "easy" half of the valve covers and not the other half? (Not sure about this)

Other minor issues:
-Lots of rust under passenger seat on chair, is this much of an issue?
-Driver side automatic unlock doesn't work much of time
-Passenger side automatic window never works, and the driver side one doesn't work some of the time
-Drivers side window has to be pushed back before being rolled up to seal completely
-Radio turns on/off rarely on its own and often acts like it's trying to load a cd or something?



Sorry for the long post....and many many thanks for any help, this little truck has turned out to be a lot of work.

Some photos at time of purchase:

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o4wyureinn261.jpg


lwtq9u7jnn261.jpg
 
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1- Check fuel pressure. Sounds like a bad checkball in the pump, a failing pump, or possibly youll get lucky itll just be the filter.

2- Start squirting wd40 on the shafts of different pulleys while its running. It possibly could be the alternator. But any of the accesorys could be suspect.

3- That rattle could be anything, its hard saying. Most likely is exhaust, but cannot say for sure.
 
1- Check fuel pressure. Sounds like a bad checkball in the pump, a failing pump, or possibly youll get lucky itll just be the filter.

2- Start squirting wd40 on the shafts of different pulleys while its running. It possibly could be the alternator. But any of the accesorys could be suspect.

3- That rattle could be anything, its hard saying. Most likely is exhaust, but cannot say for sure.

Already replaced the fuel filter, didn't fix it.

WD40 as a diagnosis to see if it is indeed one of the pulleys? I think it may be the lower idler pulley, but the upper was a pain to change due to VERY little space (between radiator fan and it). The lower seems like it'd be impossible for me to replace without taking the fan out.
 
Already replaced the fuel filter, didn't fix it.

WD40 as a diagnosis to see if it is indeed one of the pulleys? I think it may be the lower idler pulley, but the upper was a pain to change due to VERY little space (between radiator fan and it). The lower seems like it'd be impossible for me to replace without taking the fan out.
Yes WD40.

Spray it on the place where the pully bearings are and see if it stops squeaking. Hell it might even stay quiet for a few months.

If you changed the filter it probably the check ball in the pump. Test the pressure but plan on a pump replacement.
 
Yes WD40.

Spray it on the place where the pully bearings are and see if it stops squeaking. Hell it might even stay quiet for a few months.

If you changed the filter it probably the check ball in the pump. Test the pressure but plan on a pump replacement.
Could try the WD40, but that seems like a temporary fix. If bearings are bad in a pulley I should probably replace it all together.
Yes, hopefully going to test the pressure tomorrow. As simple as hooking a fuel pressure gauge up to that port in the engine I believe. What is spec PSI I should be looking for, both running and not?

Is replacing the fuel pump that difficult of a job? I was seeing it takes taking off the bed to some extent (enough to get at it), which seems a bit intense...

Have you heard of pressure washing the engine/bay?
 
I would not use high pressure in the engine bay. To much potential of water getting forced into places you don’t want it to get into. I would just use engine degreaser and a garden hose. Brake cleaner for the more stubborn spots.
 
Could try the WD40, but that seems like a temporary fix. If bearings are bad in a pulley I should probably replace it all together.
Yes, hopefully going to test the pressure tomorrow. As simple as hooking a fuel pressure gauge up to that port in the engine I believe. What is spec PSI I should be looking for, both running and not?

Is replacing the fuel pump that difficult of a job? I was seeing it takes taking off the bed to some extent (enough to get at it), which seems a bit intense...

Have you heard of pressure washing the engine/bay?
Yes obviously replacing the pulley is best but i usually squeeze every little bit of life out of everything i can.

Im not a 3.0 guru (actually im the 2.9s biggest advocate which is the 3.0s arch enemy lol) but i believe in 02 is supposed to be 60-65psi...somewhere in that neighboorhood. Might wanna use google or the main tech page.

Removing the bed isnt hard, in theory, remove the box bolts, unplug the taillight harness, and drop the filler neck and you can slide the bed backwards and get at the pump/sender assembly.

OR you can drop the tank and do it that way.

Im not a fan of powerwsshing or cleaning engines in general. But if you feel the need soak it in degreaser (make sure engine is cold) then use a garden hose.
 
I tried using a fuel pressure gauge today, multiple times and couldn't get a reading. Tried two different ford Schrader adapters (they seemed to fit well...), two different fuel pressure gauge kits and still couldn't get a single PSI. It was the fuel rail and it was the schrader valve, I am certain. Needed a read from off to on, to determine if something regarding the fuel pump was wrong, so disappointing. It couldn't possibly be 0 right? If I had 0 pressure then that vehicle wouldn't even start no matter how many times I tried, correct?

Could it be that my Schrader valve itself is bad? I checked it as best as I could and it looked fine...If the valve indeed is bad wouldn't it be leaking fuel??? Could this be why the vehicle has to be "primed" to start?
 
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there is a check valve built into the fuel pump that is supposed to retain pressure but sometimes they fail and system needs to be primed before it will start. I would also check for power @ the inertia switch (it feeds the power directly to the pump) if no power there then check the fuel relay/fuse if you have power check for power @ the pump. if the pump has power then it is likely a pump and it should be replaced. removing the bed is by far the best method. as for the squeaky belt remove belt and spin all pulleys by hand except crank and listen for noise its likely its just a bad belt or tension-er (not keeping enough tension on the belt) if no squeaks from pulleys replace belt and tension-er however i have found that cheap belts like the dayco brand or the zone/ oriellys tend to have squeak more thats why I use gates belts.
 
Will be checking all those things, what about the pressure gauge no registering while hooked up the the schrader valve though?
 
Will be checking all those things, what about the pressure gauge no registering while hooked up the the schrader valve though?
Either

1) You have 0 fuel pressure
2)The gauge is junk

Do you have another vehicle that runs properly you can test the gauge on?
 
The pulleys tend to wear slightly crowned in the middle and the belt won't stay put and squeaks. You have to replace the pulleys (RockAuto has the tensioner pulley separate) to stop the squeak.
 
Either

1) You have 0 fuel pressure
2)The gauge is junk

Do you have another vehicle that runs properly you can test the gauge on?

I tried two different gauges and had the same problem. Will be trying another one this week.
The thing is, if I truly have 0 fuel pressure I wouldn't even be able to start the truck at all, right? I am able to start the truck on the second try 90% of the time, and if I turn the key on/off 3-5 times it usually starts first try after that.

@8thTon
I think it may be the tensioner pulley indeed, seems a bit wobbly as well. However the idler pulley was almost impossible to get at because of cramped space...The tensioner pulley even with the serpentine belt tool seems like it'd be impossible unless I take the radiator fan off somehow....

@rusty ol ranger
How do I check to see if there's power to the inertia switch? I tried decompressing the red button to reset it and that didn't change anything. Also tried holding it down while starting, no luck. However if the inertia switch wasn't receiving power, again wouldn't the truck not start at all?
 
Just curious, when you tried the fuel pressure gauges did you prime the system with them hooked up to see if it developed pressure? prime meaning turn the key on till pump shuts off 3-5 times.

And yes if it had 0 psi at all times it would not fire up at all but when you prime it it builds pressure enough to start.
 
Just curious, when you tried the fuel pressure gauges did you prime the system with them hooked up to see if it developed pressure? prime meaning turn the key on till pump shuts off 3-5 times.

And yes if it had 0 psi at all times it would not fire up at all but when you prime it it builds pressure enough to start.

I did about 3 times or so and still nothing. Not sure if maybe the schrader valve itself is bad?? (how would I know, or what else it could be) I will try a different pressure gauge this week and try priming it around 5 times to see if that makes any difference, but I doubt it.
 

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