2002 Mazda B3000 3.0 Would greatly appreciate advice/help (starting issues etc...)

[Bgunner]

To know if the schrader valve is bad is either they leak or the pin in the center is unable to be pushed down to release the pressure. The adapter should have a small piece of metal that pushes down on the pin, if this is missing then the valve is not opening allowing the pressure to enter the gauge. When you disconnect the pressure gauge you should get a small amount of fuel that spills out, did you get this with your last attempt? Just watch for these things on your next attempt to know that the pin is being pressed.

 

[8thTon]

I think it may be the tensioner pulley indeed, seems a bit wobbly as well. However the idler pulley was almost impossible to get at because of cramped space...The tensioner pulley even with the serpentine belt tool seems like it'd be impossible unless I take the radiator fan off somehow....

I did manage to replace mine without removing the fan, although I don't remember in detail how.

 

[97RangerXLT]

I did manage to replace mine without removing the fan, although I don't remember in detail how.

I was able to do so on my 4.0 as well. A bit tight but still able to do it.

AJ

 

[gnosis]

@black_demon69
@Bgunner
@rusty ol ranger


Checked it again today with different kit. 0 fuel pressure, however this time I tried priming it 5-7 times maybe even more (on/off) and eventually I got it up to around 10psi. Once I got the truck running I waited around 5 minutes and the psi got up to around 65 and stayed there while running. Tried the same thing again, could barely get over 10psi with the on/off routine. So it seems there is very low fuel pressure when trying to start the truck, however once it is running it stays around 65 (takes a bit to get there).

Does this 100% confirm that it's the fuel pump itself? From what I've read the fuel pump sort of either works or it doesn't. That it doesn't generally allow one to even start the vehicle if it's bad. Should I check other parts that could be responsible for this? It'd be nice for it to possible be a smaller easier and more affordable to replace part....and I'd hate to replace the fuel pump and have the problem persist.


Another issue I am having is with the idle air control valve. I replaced it recently as the check engine p1506 code came on. Then a couple days later the check engine came back on and it was same code. Tried tightening the bolts, went away for another day, came back. Tried that today and no luck. Could it be the sensor that connects to it? How can I test that and is it easy to replace?

Many many thanks for all the help ya'll.

 

[Bgunner]

Fix one issue at a time, fix your fuel delivery issues as if the engine isn't getting enough fuel the ECM will try to compensate and once it gets out of specs then it trips trouble codes.

I'll let @rusty ol ranger chime in on if he thinks it is the check ball sticking open or the pump being weak. I'm not sure where the check ball is located on your truck but if it is the sending unit I'd say replace the pump and sending unit as they can be purchased all in one piece.

What happens to the fuel pressure once you shut the engine off? Does it hold pressure or does it drop quickly?
It should hold pressure.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Fix one issue at a time, fix your fuel delivery issues as if the engine isn't getting enough fuel the ECM will try to compensate and once it gets out of specs then it trips trouble codes.

I'll let @rusty ol ranger chime in on if he thinks it is the check ball sticking open or the pump being weak. I'm not sure where the check ball is located on your truck but if it is the sending unit I'd say replace the pump and sending unit as they can be purchased all in one piece.

What happens to the fuel pressure once you shut the engine off? Does it hold pressure or does it drop quickly?
It should hold pressure.

I will gurantee almost 100% its the check ball.

 

[gnosis]

If I do replace the fuel pump, what fuel pump should I get? Should I replace the sending unit assembly and other things as well while I have the pump and bed off?

The fuel pumps with the housing assemblies are around $200 whereas just the fuel pump is around $50-70. Is it necessary that I get the entire assembly?

If I do change the fuel pump, should I clean the fuel tank also?

I will gurantee almost 100% its the check ball.

And the check ball in a 2002 mazda b3000 is part of the fuel pump itself? Can I test the check ball itself? I can't find anything online about this... (assuming it is part of the fuel pump itself)

Should I not be trying to check the fuel relay, ignition switch and other such things anymore? Ie being 100% sure it's the fuel pump?
Is the check ball the same as the check valve?

Also, could it be the fuel pressure regulator or possible the fuel relay?

@Bgunner
Once I shut the engine off the fuel pressure drops fairly quickly. Maybe a couple of minutes (or less) and it's back down to zero.

I did manage to replace mine without removing the fan, although I don't remember in detail how.

I'd love to know how you went about this....

 

[Bgunner]

Since the pressure went down so quickly it is the check valve/check ball, same part slight different name. Find where in the line this is, will be in the line under the truck or in the sending unit itself and replace it. This should solve the fuel issue.

 

[gnosis]

Since the pressure went down so quickly it is the check valve/check ball, same part slight different name. Find where in the line this is, will be in the line under the truck or in the sending unit itself and replace it. This should solve the fuel issue.

I believe it is part of the fuel pump assembly itself....

Thinking of ordering this one from advanced auto and price matching with rock auto to get it for around $130

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

(Link works even though it says it's down)

 

[black_demon69]

Get the whole fuel pump / sending unit assembly and replace also replace fuel filter. then reprime the system before starting the first time

 

[gnosis]

I'll be replacing the fuel pump hopefully soon then.

Since replacing the idle air control valve (check engine came on for it) I've been having some issues with the truck wanting to accelerate a bit regardless of pressing gas. Also seems to rev between 2-3000 rpm when I start it. Maybe the idle air control valve sensor is bad? Is this difficult to replace?

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would not attempt to "fix" anything else until you have the fuel delivery issue correct.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

I'll be replacing the fuel pump hopefully soon then.

Since replacing the idle air control valve (check engine came on for it) I've been having some issues with the truck wanting to accelerate a bit regardless of pressing gas. Also seems to rev between 2-3000 rpm when I start it. Maybe the idle air control valve sensor is bad? Is this difficult to replace?

That's what it's SUPPOSED to do. It should idle high until it starts to warm up. As it warms up, you'll notice the idle will drop. *All* of my EFI vehicles have done this (when they were running properly). My 1976 Toyota Corolla with a manual choke did it, too, when the choke was out.

 

[gnosis]

That's what it's SUPPOSED to do. It should idle high until it starts to warm up. As it warms up, you'll notice the idle will drop. *All* of my EFI vehicles have done this (when they were running properly). My 1976 Toyota Corolla with a manual choke did it, too, when the choke was out.

Yes, I thought perhaps that was alright. However I am concerned with while driving it will literally accelerate (if I am in Drive or Reverse) and I have to press on the brake.
Read a while ago about someone using an aftermarket part and it being a problem until they replaced it with an OEM one, believe it was the IAC too. Going to clean my original and try putting it on to see if I still have the problem.

Could it be the sensor though?

 

[gnosis]

Hoping that the low fuel pressure when turning to on position 100% confirms it's the fuel pump (check valve). Is there anything else I should check before going through with this.....?

Going to pull the trigger soon on a new fuel pump assembly

Which of these should I get for price/performance ratio?

2002 MAZDA B3000 3.0L V6 Fuel Pump & Housing Assembly | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 2002 MAZDA B3000 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Thinking of getting the DELPHI FG0872 and price matching at advanced auto...

Also, has anyone actually done this with an extended cab before? How difficult was it?